How To: Remove/Install Tranny and LSD or disassemble gears

I don't see anything out of place in those pictures. I had a similar issue (not the same), where on the bench I couldn't grab a few gears when shifting. When pulling my diff out I decided to lift the main / counter shafts and slide the diff out, as opposed to removing either of the shafts. What happened was the linkages in the pic below, from post 11 of this thread, fell out of alignment. They should look exactly as they do in the pic; for me the top piece fell out of the slot. All I needed to do was to move the shafts slightly and slide everything back in place.

linkages.jpg
 
How do people check the bearing preload? I have a torque wrench--are there sockets that will safely grab onto the splines? Or should some sort of an adapter be used? (Or one of those universal sockets?) The PDF seems to indicate some adapter for the shafts.

Is it worth replacing the rear main seal while the tranny is out?
 
There is tool from Mazda that you can buy ($$$). I found a thread on an Australian forum where the guy used a big stick. He hammered a socket on one end, and then pushed the stick into the diff. He used a beam style tq wrench that he bought from a bike shop to measure preload.

I didn't replace my rear main seal. Now would be an opportune time to do it though.

EDIT : here http://www.mx6.com/forums/1g-faq-tr...orts-differential-install-huge-lots-pics.html
 
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Dumb question: do I have to go to a machine shop to press on the bearings (presumably more competent) or is it enough to go to a mechanic with a press?
 
I used a seal press tool to start the bearing, then a short section of pipe and a mallet to fully seat them. See if you can find a section of pipe that is slightly larger than the diff and is small enought to sit on the inner race on the bearing. I took extra precaution and wrapped the end of the pipe with masking tape. They are really easy to install; just take your time and make sure they are going on straight.

If you search YouTube you can find a 3 vid series by illinipo or illipino, installing a LSD in a Ford Focus Getrag trans. Different diff/trans, but some invaluable info in his vids, including plenty o' info on installing bearings and races.
 
So, I am in the middle of putting the tranny back together and the neutral behavior seems funny. Sadly, I don't have a working transmission to check against anymore. Maybe when it's filled with fluid and oriented horizontally, so there is no gravity, it will be a different beast?

Is this normal?

When in neutral, going left to 1st/2nd fork feels normal and not really notchy. However, going back the other way, to the right, the 5th/reverse rod seems jumpy. As I start moving OFF the neutral position, halfway over, the 5th/reverse rod dips slightly and then as I keep moving, the selector collar finally forces the rod back into place.

I have a video:

http://youtu.be/bHlZcydzyD0

I looked inside the tranny and I can't seem to see what's wrong. It seems like there is some space between where the shoulder of the outer interlocking sleeve (the one that keeps the other two forks from moving) ends and the selector "nub" begins. So as I'm going to 5th, there's that "void" into which 5th seems to fall.

In the video, notice how the 5th/reverse selection has the rod momentarily dip and come back up. I also feel about twice as much resistance.
 
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I'm pretty sure that's due to the 5th to reverse lockout... you should be going from 5th and passing through neutral before going to reverse. Try that and I'll bet it won't jump.
 
I'm pretty sure that's due to the 5th to reverse lockout... you should be going from 5th and passing through neutral before going to reverse. Try that and I'll bet it won't jump.
But I'm not engaging 5th or reverse itself, I am just moving the neutral stick to the 5th/reverse area (tilting the gear selector right, but not selecting a gear).
 
I have a tranny in pieces in the back of my work... The only other thing maybe is the one 10mm bolt outside the case that holds that shift collar piece around the shiftforks? All the little roll pins pressed back in place?
 
Roll pins are back in place. A 10 mm bolt outside the case that holds the shift collar? Do you mean the 12mm guide bolt that has a 1cm-long unthreaded portion at the end? THat one seems to make no difference, as it is not by the 5th gear rod. I am starting to think that this might be OK and that when the tranny is horizontal and is filled with fluid, then there will be no gravity to make 5th/reverse rod slip down while the fork selector rod rotates.
 
A lot of the autozones and so forth will carry the trans axle seals and the bearings you need...

could have bought the diff from us pre-welded! :)

Later,

Steve


Okay so I'm now the confused guy. I had the shop that installed my motor install a "Welded LSD" but when I got the car back it was literally a WELDED diff ... like what you'd put in a drag car or dyno queen. The car will not turn with a welded diff (at least not what I had). So finally after letting it sit (around for 7 years) I've got it appart and ready to install the factory MSP LSD ... and you're saying it's best to have it "welded" .. I guess I need more info. BTW .. if a drag racer wants a "WELDED" (e.g. both wheels are locked 100%) diff .. I've got one with only 2hours of dyno time on it (bearings & all).
 
I just removed my tranny for a clutch replacement using this thread. First I want to say Thank you!! This helped a ton.

There were some snags I ran into, they may help people doing this in the future:

- In the beginning of your thread you label the drain bolt as 22mm, I bought a 22mm socket and had to go get a 24mm (could not find a 23mm socket, 24 worked perfectly though).
- The bolt for the control arm ball joint would not come out. I got the nut off fine but the bolt was so rusted in there it would not budge. In the end I had to drill the head of the bolt off. This was by far the largest problem I ran into.
- I had a couple nuts/bolts strip on me very easily, the metal was so worn it was like lead (115k miles and it's in New Jersey, lots of corrosion). I picked up a set of Craftsman Damaged Bolt Removing Sockets and they did the job, I would highly recommend getting these for this, if it's anything like my case you will strip quite a few nuts/bolts.
- I stupidly saved the top two 12mm bolts on the tranny housing for last, do NOT do this, both bolts snapped in half while removing them.
- After taking off the motor mounts my motor dropped about 4inches. This will make it impossible to get the tranny over that round black bar. You will have to lift the engine back to it's original height to remove the transmission.

All in all it went very well, this was my first clutch job and I couldn't have done it without this thread, thanks again!


Transmission removed:
0718131434c.jpg
 
Great thread. I used it to install my MFactory diff. I did not take apart the 1-2 and 3-4 shift forks. You can take both gear stacks and the shift rod out as a unit and put it back in the same way. Make sure you have a pick holding the spring for the shifter detent ball when you remove everything! Also, make a couple cardboard bolt holders so you can put everything back together right. I made three: One for all of the bolts for the transmission halves (with labels where wiring clips were), one for the bolts from the transmission to the engine and one for bolts from the engine to the transmission. For the transmission template a roughly drew the shape of the transmission, for the other two I simply labelled 12-3-6 and 9 o'clock.
 
hello guys,i need a short yes or no,is MSP LSD is direct bolt on into non LSD Protege 5 box?i want to install it into my Premacy,it has the same FS-DE engine and gearbox as P5,my car also has ABS,thanks in advance
 
hello guys,i need a short yes or no,is MSP LSD is direct bolt on into non LSD Protege 5 box?i want to install it into my Premacy,it has the same FS-DE engine and gearbox as P5,my car also has ABS,thanks in advance

Yes, no issue at all. Drops in to almost any G series Mazda gearbox.
 
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