did some research, but...

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bizzy420

Member
hey guys i have been reading these forums for about 3 weeks everyday. i have saved up about 9 grand, and im seriously thinking about getting the mazda6 v6, auto ( because i just cruise, no racing for me). the thing is i have read that alot of 1st year models have alot of problems. here are a few of the things i have read about.

1: rotten smell

2: door rust

3: cel light turns on

4:some sort of lag that makes the car jerk

5: the 6 has cheap paint that chips easily

honestly i dont know much about cars,but i do know that i cant keep spending $$$ fixing problems the first few years. are these problems fixed yet? are there any other problems that im leaving out? im sorry if i sound like im nit-picking, but im not rich and this car will be with me for a long time, i just want to make the right decision. please any information is GREATLY appreciated. thanks
 
bizzy420 said:
hey guys i have been reading these forums for about 3 weeks everyday. i have saved up about 9 grand, and im seriously thinking about getting the mazda6 v6, auto ( because i just cruise, no racing for me). the thing is i have read that alot of 1st year models have alot of problems. here are a few of the things i have read about.

1: rotten smell

2: door rust

3: cel light turns on

4:some sort of lag that makes the car jerk

5: the 6 has cheap paint that chips easily

honestly i dont know much about cars,but i do know that i cant keep spending $$$ fixing problems the first few years. are these problems fixed yet? are there any other problems that im leaving out? im sorry if i sound like im nit-picking, but im not rich and this car will be with me for a long time, i just want to make the right decision. please any information is GREATLY appreciated. thanks
Click to expand...


Well, I bought my 6 about 6 weeks ago and here's what I can tell you. (you should also note that it is no longer a 1st year car)

1. Rotten Smell: I have never experienced this, but I have heard some people get it from time to time. I know this is a problem on many makes and models of cars but I don't think it is problem that is specifically bad with Mazda 6's.

2. Door rust: This problem has been corrected. They were using some sort of chemical at the plant before applying the paint that made the doors "stain". Mazda offered affected owners a warranty fix for the staining that arguably corrected the problem.

3. Cel light turns on: I know nothing about this.

4. Lag: The V6 is tuned for high end torque, so many people complain there is a throttle lag when you step on the gas. Some people argue it has to do with the wiring... who knows. I personally like the way the rate of acceleration increases as the RPM's get higher. Test drive and decide for yourself.

5. Cheap paint: Thank the Environmental Protection Agency for that. All cars are suffering the same problem because law requires the paint to be more water based now.
 
I can only comment on the paint problem...I own a P5, not a 6...But almost every single new car will have this problem...Just like mentioned above, there are some new environmental laws that require the use of more earth friendly chemicals, not only just water based, but also the aerosols(sp?...always forget that one) and polymers that contribute during the spraying phase...

The paint is usually much "harder", as detailers refer to it...and results in very easy chips, especially during cold weather...But a regular detailing schedule can do wonders for the quality of the paint in years to come...If you are truely concerned about it, I would recommend heading over to www.autopia.org and trolling those boards for a bit...its a detailing site, and will give you the poop on all the products that help extend the life and quality of your paint...Zaino brothers is what I use, but that is more of a polishing material, that doesn't offer the protection of some others...anyway, there are ways to help prevent it...just takes some research and maybe 50 bucks of different materials a year to keep up with it...But in 5 years could mean the difference between a decent looking front end, and a call to the local paint shop...
 
1) The sulfur smell occured on a certain batch of 03's. It was caused by something awry with one of the cat's. Revised parts came out, and anyone with the issue was fixed.

2) There was never any rust. It was a stain. Problem fixed in 03.

3) The cel light comes on for a variety of reasons. The most common reasons in 03 were evap leaks (fuel cap loose) and misfire codes. Both of these were fixed with PCM updates in 29_3 (Their up to 31_2 now). A misfire code will still fire if you abuse the car however...they go off if you beat on the car (Above 5500 rpm) before the car's coolant is @ operating temp.

4) This only occurs with the automatics. It was fixed with a TCM update a few months ago.

5) The paint does chip easily on the urethene body moldings. Luckily these are hella cheap to replace (dealer cost on the ENTIRE front bumper is around 130 USD). So I wouldn't worry too much about that. I've yet to see any major chips on anything but my front bumper.

Since the 2005's are right around the corner, you might as well just keep waiting and see what new options the 2005's have available to you.
 
Additionally, for what its worth, the 6 came out in the US a year after the rest of the world, and is already in its 2nd model year here - or 3rd model year worldwide.

Most definitely not a 1st Year model, and its getting incredible ratings in true, hard driving long term consumer tests by edmunds, Car and Driver and Consumer Reports.
 
Screw the automatic! Get the manual! Who cares if you're just 'cruising'.

With a manual, once it's in 5th gear, you can cruise anyways!
 
The 6s MTX also has an additional 15-20 WHP over the 6s ATX...something to consider if your looking for the highest performing mazda 6. (Ignoring the fact that 6i MTX might have a turbo soon).

I should also point out that the 6i MTX > 6s MTX in the twisty's...the 6s MTX is just better in the straights.
 
thx for all the great info guys. the thing is, i would wait till 2005, but some guy wants to buy my car next weekend. its a 95 integra (auto) with 69,000 miles. the engine is still good but the paint is ******. the dude said he'd give me 3,400 for it. so once i get that cash, i'll have a total of 10,000 to down on a car.

so most of the problems have been fixed, right?
 
oh i forgot, like i said, i dont know much about cars, so i was wondering if any of u are from orange county, ca. what prices are u guys paying? and what is the MTX and ATX?? auto and manual?

thx again
 
MTX = Manual Transmission

ATX = Automatic Transmission.

The MTX puts down 15-20 more WHP then the ATX does. With the additional benefit of better gearing, the MTX (in stock trim) is almost a second faster in 0-60 times.

If your considering a Mazda 6s, I'd definitely look into the manual, even if you weren't a manual owner before.

If your looking to save some cash, look into the 6i MTX. Its about as fast as a 6s ATX (140 WHP for 6i MTX vs 155-165 WHP for 6s ATX), about 300 lbs lighter, and has alot more room for a turbo :).
 
I was always told manual trans axle and auto trans axle but who really cares....

and as for paint....I have touch up paint on every body part but the roof now cause of those damn construction sites along 295 and the rocks flying around from both cars and trucks....the paint on my neon didn't chip as fast as this did and it got hit a couple of times more than the 6
 
well the thing is i live in garden grove, and i drive 1hr to work and home everyday in traffic, so im pretty sure im going with the atx. mtx in traffic for an hour sux, well atleast im my opinion. so are their anymroe negative things about the 6, i should know about?
 
Da 6,

Are you coming to the giant Mazda 6 meet on June 12? (Its in your area)
http://www.mazda6club.com/forums/read.php?TID=19171&page=1

Ya its definitely manual transaxle or what not, but I was just being simple in my answer :).

Btw WHP = wheel horsepower, the amount of power which reaches the road, after drivetrain loss is accounted for.

I don't really have anything negative to say about the 6. It doesn't really have any major negative aspects, just minor things. Something you might want to look into when you get yours is...

1) Early oil change @ 1000 miles.
2) An aftermarket tranny cooler for the ATX

Unless your leasing, then just screw it :).
 
crossbow said:
Da 6,

Are you coming to the giant Mazda 6 meet on June 12? (Its in your area)
http://www.mazda6club.com/forums/read.php?TID=19171&page=1

Ya its definitely manual transaxle or what not, but I was just being simple in my answer :).

Btw WHP = wheel horsepower, the amount of power which reaches the road, after drivetrain loss is accounted for.

I don't really have anything negative to say about the 6. It doesn't really have any major negative aspects, just minor things. Something you might want to look into when you get yours is...

1) Early oil change @ 1000 miles.
2) An aftermarket tranny cooler for the ATX

Unless your leasing, then just screw it :).
Click to expand...
I hope I can make it!!!! I'm still trying to get to the track... My schedule sucks... and as for the inline tranny filter is there anywhere other than ford to get one cause pepboys autozone advanced auto parts napa and like another store doesn't stock them...let alone have a clue wtf it is? they tried to pass off a fram oil filter for one at one point! (yupnope) They need to make them ase certified so they can stop trying to sell me parts that won't fit on a 6!!!
 
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oh yeah, another thing, what exactly does the sport package come with? just rims? or is there a bunch of other s***? if i get the 6 (v6) does that include the sports package? thx
 
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I don't know what the 2004 sports package comes with.

The 2003 sports package came with...

17 inch alloys, with 215/50/17 Mich MX4+ something or other.
Electroluminence dash
Front airdam, side sills, rear airdam, spoiler.
Fog lights in the headlight assembly.
 
man, im sorry guys, it seems like i think of more questions each day, since this is going to be a huge purchase for me. anyways, out the door, with taxes included, how much should i pay? im gonna be going to the dealership in 2 hrs, so rite now im trying to get as much info as possible. thx
 
well i just sold my car, so im heading out to the dealer pretty soon. i really would like to get the car this weekend, because the $1500 rebate, or 0% financing is gonna end tomorrow. any last minute suggestions?
 
Usually when an incentive ends there is another one to replace it so I wouldn't worry too much about no more 0% financing. On the otherhand, now that you've sold your other car I guess you will need a new one in a hurry. Check www.edmunds.com and the site will tell you what others are paying for the exact same car you want. Print it out and bring it to the dealer. This makes it harder for them to argue with you and they will know you've done your homework so you won't get ripped off.

Good luck!
 
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