Brakes shaking over 80mph WTF?

gimpo2

Member
:
Protege5
Ok since i got my hiboost in i've been able to hit higher speeds way faster, now i noticed that when i hit the brakes goin fast than 80mph or so there's my car shudders pretty badly... never used to do it before, i think it only does it after my brakes are nice and heated up. i think my rotors are warped... can you guys think it could be anything else?
 
ah dammit i wonder how that happened... i guess its time for that big brake kit :D, or i could just get my rotors shaved
 
probably from slowing down alot from high speeds, i know you are boosted so i think we can agree you've been up pretty fast/slowed down fast alot.
 
it could be that all the lugs on your wheels are not at the same torque rating...if you have your tires rotated and balanced at a shop i would make sure they torque each nut the exact same. this happened to me on my probe and i went trough a few sets (including the drilled rotors) befor i found out wy it was happening....all i did was put a new set on and torqued them down myself and i never had the problem again...just my .02
 
No turbo here but my Rotors are warped now. Too much highway chasing and then slamming up on traffic in Atlanta i guess.
 
mMmmMm... big brakes kit.. that would look great on your car SHAGwagon... rims + big brake kit = sex for the eyes.
 
According to some very detailed and reliable information over at http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/warped_rotors_myth.htm, there is no such thing as brake rotor warp. Its likely just deposits from your brake pads. The deposits usually happen from braking REALLY hard and leaving your foot on the brakes after you've come to a complete stop.

pad_deposition.jpg


The easiest thing to do is to reseat your current pads. Instrux from the above stoptech link:
The procedure is several stops of increasing severity with a brief cooling period between them. After the last stop, the system should be allowed to cool to ambient temperature. Typically, a series of ten increasingly hard stops from 60mph to 5 mph with normal acceleration in between should get the job done for a high performance street pad. During pad or disc break-in, do not come to a complete stop, so plan where and when you do this procedure with care and concern for yourself and the safety of others. If you come to a complete stop before the break-in process is completed there is the chance for non-uniform pad material transfer or pad imprinting to take place and the results will be what the whole process is trying to avoid. Game over.
If the deposits are really bad, you can remove the rotors and clean them with a special (non metalic?) sand paper.

Rotor warp is an urban legend.
 
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Ibeg to differ on the rotors are never relaly warped bit 'cause I've been in the shop while mine were being cut. you watch the lathe-like machine, and one part of the rotor, no scrape, another part, it's cutting hard enought that you hear the machine bog. OF course this one was after a VERY blatany hot stop inmy old Civic when a stop sign and a T in the road jumped out in front of me at 110mph. the things were warped warped for sure.
 
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