Ractive Header Thoughts After Install (Pics)

Maxx Mazda

Resident Asshole
Contributor
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Completely Stock P5
Well, got my Ractive header from Funky Buddha's group buy (him and I met up for lunch) and I couldn't resist temptation to put it on this evening.

My first impression was that the header was nice, and a great value for the money. The welds could be better, but other than that fit is perfect. I found that on the underside of the car, the header contacts the oil pan slightly, but since both parts are stationary, it shouldn't pose a problem. The header comes nickel plated, and while not as strong as ceramic, it should prove good heat resistance over time although I'm sure that eventually it will turn a little blue. While still heavy at some 30 pounds, as you can see in the pic with me holding both headers, the Ractive is about half as light as the factory setup made of cast iron.

Removing the stock header / cat is a little tricky once all the bolts are removed. The whole assembly (which is pretty heavy) needs to be juggled out through the bottom. I had a hoist available at the time of this install, but I opted instead to just use ramps as getting my car onto a hoist requres alot of jockeying and hockey pucks. Anyways, once the factory manifold was removed, the header bolted into place using the stock hardware. I used the old gaskets again which is perfectly fine. You may run into some trouble reusing the mallable lower gasket, but if care is taken it will work well. (it's a graphite composite fiber and will degrade quite easily if you're not gentle.) Once the header was all bolted on (the alignment was perfect) all I needed to do was connect the EGR line and connect the O2 sensor that I bolted in prior to installing the header.

The Ractive header requires that the second O2 sensor be relocated to behind the second cat. I simply left mine unplugged and out of the car and (knock on wood) I don't have a CEL yet. I'm sure I'll get one in the next few days.

So, all buttoned up, I started the car and crawled undernieth to check for leaks. All looked well, so once she was warmed up I took my Dad in it out for a rip. The car not only sounds alot better, but the torque curve seems a little flatter and begins to pick up at around (get this!) 2000-2500 RPM. We all know that the FS doesn't even begin to pour on the coal until you hit the majic 3 grand mark, but now it is alot stronger in the lower ranges of the powerband. Keep your right foot planted, and watch both the tach and speedo climb much faster than before. The engine can breathe now! All the way up to 7000 the power is strong. I never thought it was possible, but you are actually pushed back into your seat a little. Oh, and the sound is intoxicating. Check my sig to see what else I'm running, but my exhaust note is now so much deeper, and the throttle response is there now too. This is about as well as the FS will ever breathe with simple bolt ons.

I'd reccomend the header to anyone in the market. While Ractive may not be the most reputable manufacturer out there, the quality, performance gains and value for my dollar were above my expectations in all respects. Definitly a good bang for the buck.

Be sure to check the link below for pics. Excuse the mess. All mt parts are heading into the paint shop tomorrow to get redone since my accident trashed it all.

http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4287271671
 
What happens to the 2nd o2 sensor? do you have to drill behind the 2nd cat and install it there? Dont tell me it remains uninstalled!!
 
Um, ya... If you read my post above you would have noted:

"The Ractive header requires that the second O2 sensor be relocated to behind the second cat. I simply left mine unplugged and out of the car and (knock on wood) I don't have a CEL yet. I'm sure I'll get one in the next few days."

And sure enough, I got a CEL this morning. I'll either get the O2 sensor welded back in, or do the resistor trick to eliminate it.
 
I would just get the 20 dollar fix from apex motorsports in tempe, seems to work good for a long time and then you dont have to worry about more welding work on your exhaust.
 
i assume it a 4-1 then? whas whats give you the flatter torque curve. its nice isnt it thats really where our motor lacks the cams we have are torque spec cams so a header is a nice balance
 
wrap it or coat it

i agree, for the price, it is worth it....however i do recommend u to coat it or header wrap it...i have been using mine for about 3 months now...burn marks are visible....and if u are running a CAI..wrapping and coating is a must...otherwise the CAI heats up from the heat generated from the headers..

cheers
(spin)
 
I would take the time to remove the header and take it to a competent welder. He can make a "Bung" for the O2 sensor, drill the header and weld this threaded port onto your header. It's rather important that the distance is the same from where it was to where it is on the new header.

I am using DEI Heat Guard header wrap. It's ugly and expensive, but holy s*** does it ever work. You can touch it with your hand and not be burned. If that isn't working, then what is. 1400 Deg F + and skin contact!!
 
Brian MP5T said:
I would take the time to remove the header and take it to a competent welder. He can make a "Bung" for the O2 sensor, drill the header and weld this threaded port onto your header. It's rather important that the distance is the same from where it was to where it is on the new header.

I am using DEI Heat Guard header wrap. It's ugly and expensive, but holy s*** does it ever work. You can touch it with your hand and not be burned. If that isn't working, then what is. 1400 Deg F + and skin contact!!
Welding a bung into the header won't do anything. The 2nd sensor needs to be BEHIND the second cat, or there is no difference. It needs to either sense catalyzed air, or be fooled that it is by a MIL eliminator.
 
Maxx Mazda said:
Welding a bung into the header won't do anything. The 2nd sensor needs to be BEHIND the second cat, or there is no difference. It needs to either sense catalyzed air, or be fooled that it is by a MIL eliminator.
Well my friend, then my car is an anomily. I have no first cat and the second O2 sensor is after my turbine in my downpipe. The first is before the turbine in the manifold. It works fine with no CEL. The reason for two is so the ECU can make sure that the o2 sensors are working. It senses the value from each and taking in consideration the time diference, verifys that the values are similar. If not, you get a CEL and your car goes into limp mode.

The Bung will work and is alot better than some resistor that tricks the ECU into thinking that there is an O2 sensor. At least this way, the car has a working second O2 sensor...the way it was designed to work.
 
in order for the cel/mil eliminator to work does the o2 sensor have to be exposed to air? cuz i wrapped mine up in electrical tape pretty good, im pretty sure its water proof LoL i threw a cel much later on though, but it may be because i was abusing my car, and i let it idle for a while as well, i'll try unwrapping it and see what that leads too
 
What header are you running? i take it there is no hole for the second O2 sensor?



pr5owner said:
in order for the cel/mil eliminator to work does the o2 sensor have to be exposed to air? cuz i wrapped mine up in electrical tape pretty good, im pretty sure its water proof LoL i threw a cel much later on though, but it may be because i was abusing my car, and i let it idle for a while as well, i'll try unwrapping it and see what that leads too
 
Brian, chances are the reason you aren't getting a CEL is the turbo; You're probably both running leaner as well as the fact that the turbo probably burns off some of the fuel as it passes through the exhaust turbine, due to the temperature; If your first O2 sensor is before the turbo, and the second is after, that is. But that's just my guess. =)
 
crap i dont have a turbo, and no i don't have a 2nd bung, because we all know ractive is highly inteligent, i don't want to extend the wires to the 2nd cat, im too damn lazy... and i don't want to pay more than nothing for the install (don't want to pay 50 bux for bung weld)
 
this is why i went with the obx header for this price range. everything bolted right up and the mil fix took care fo the CEL.

What's your MPG like right now pr5owner?
 
no clue just installed it yesterday, did you have your o2 sensor just sitting in the engine bay with nothing covering it?
 
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