Kooldino said:How much is the map switch?
You already have it built in to your unit. You just need to wire that part of up and tune both maps.
Thanks again
Later..........Nick
Kooldino said:How much is the map switch?
DooMer_MP3 said:Well I believe that answers my questions. In detail even. Thank you. When you say "if you add or remove fuel with our MAF", is that YOUR MAF (the MPI one). Is that pretty much required for MAF tuning with the MPI tuner? Otherwise you can do O2 sensor based tuning? Thanks...
Chris
paulmp3 said:What does this option run$$$$, it sounds like a pretty cool feature.
StuttersC said:You in no way change the O2 sensor signal though. You take that signal and put it into the MPI Tuner to help tune. But the signal is still sent to the ECU?
To me, "tapping" the line means you do not cut the signal at all, you simply add a wire to the original wire.
The voltage clamp fits in between the ECU and the O2 sensor. When the clamp sees boost (via a tube and boost trigger inside the unit) it modifies the signal instantly. If the clamp does not see boost, it sends the regular signal.
My undertsanding, form what you have said, is the MPI Tuner does not do this. All it does is read the o2 sensor signal, and you use that reading to tune the MPI Tuner.
srd555 said:Ok Nick, you guys are on like level 10 and I am on something like level -23000, so let me just tell you what I want and you tell me the price.
I want:
1) to keep my stock MAF.
2) no extra injectors.
3) to run 6 PSI daily and at the flick of a switch run 10 or 12psi without putting a piston on the moon.
4) to have a pre programmed unit with a simple straight forward install.
Can this be done? What will it cost?
MPNick said:I am not sure what the levels mean buy I hope a 10 is a good thing.
Thats on a scale of one to ten.
The cost is $770.00, this will get you the MPI Tuner, the software, the tuning cable for your laptop and the boost control unit.
Sweet!!.
Never can tell if anyone can hold 8 psi plus of boost. Big turbo, big intercooler, and a good exhaust may be a lot more power then a small turbo, small intercooler and poor exhaust. Power output will change if your set up flows more then the next. You need to know how much hp you want make. Then you will know if you need more fuel then the stock injectors can flow.
I want to make ~190-200 whp on high boost and stockish whp on low boost. I just assumed by the numbers everyone has been getting at 10-12 psi, that that is what I would need to reach my modest goals.
This is the setup you asked for. You can flip the switch and change from one boost level to another. 12psi stock lower end is up to you.
The unit will come set up for your Mazda. You will need to fine tune the car for you set up at first.
How hard is this for the terminally stoopid?
After that you can e-mail me the data log file and I can tune it for you and e-mail it back a few minutes later. This is all done at no charge along with software updates. Please let me know if you have any questions
THE MAN
Thanks again
Later.........Nick
srd555 said:When will the program for using the stock MAF be ready?
P.S. I will be getting a 2.5" d/p and catback along with a intercooler upgrade later. I just decided to start the mods with the tunning.
I would love to see how this system is going to work without extra injectors.srd555 said:Ok Nick, you guys are on like level 10 and I am on something like level -23000, so let me just tell you what I want and you tell me the price.
I want:
1) to keep my stock MAF.
2) no extra injectors.
3) to run 6 PSI daily and at the flick of a switch run 10 or 12psi without putting a piston on the moon.
4) to have a pre programmed unit with a simple straight forward install.
Can this be done? What will it cost?
srd555 said:Nick, about the boost control unit, how accurate is it? Will there be alot of spikes and boost creep like the bleed valve type of controllers?
perfworks said:I would love to see how this system is going to work without extra injectors.
shinzen said:What is the mpi 'puter running? Sounds like it can do most everything I need it to..
SO in closed loop you are relying on the O2 sensor input to the ecu (from the piggy) to give you the fuel you need under boost?MPNick said:In the past we needed our MAF to tune the stock injectors. We have been testing with the stock MAF and we should have it ready in a short time. You would still make better gains with our MAF, the stock meter it just to small for much more then 8 psi. The O 2 tuning only works in closed loop. In open loop you may need run extra injectors.
Thanks again
Later.........Nick
perfworks said:I would love to see how this system is going to work without extra injectors.
srd555 said:
Is that "I would love to see"
OR
Is that "I would love to see"
MPNick said:I am not sure why we keep coming back to this. Why would we spend all of the money to have a whole new software made for tuning the O2, along with the hardware changes if we are not going to do it?
We take the signal that is coming out of the O2. We then bring it in to the MPI Tuner. We then read it and trap it in the MPI Tuner, it will never see the light of day again. We then program a whole new output signal that we then send to the ECU. This is the only O 2 signal that the ecu will ever see in the O 2 tuning mode. The ECU only gets the MPI Tuner signal that has been programed by the user. It will not get the stock oem O 2 sensor signal if you do not what it to. You have complete control of the signal. You can tune the signal as you need.
We now have 8 tuning columns, each O 2 tuning columns have 16 rows. The rows are for rpms and the columns are for throttle. You will set the high and low limits for both the throttle columns and the rpm rows. Some cars redline at 7,000 the next maybe 5,500. Keep in mind that we use the MPI Tuner on all types of cars, so you will need to set the points for your car.
If you what to have 12.5 afr at one point, lets just say at 40% throttle and 3,400 rpm. You go to the 40% column and type in 12.5. Then go to the 3,400 rpm row in this column and give it some cotrol, lets say 25%. Drive the car and check the AFR at this point. If it is 13.2, you need to give the 3,400 row more control. Try 35% and drive the car again. If it is now 12.1 afr you when to far. Go back and try 30% in that row. We give you a lot of point for tuning, will not take long to get it right.
I hope this helps with your question, please let me know if you need anymore info.
Thanks again
Later.........Nick
This is how it is done. It may sound hard but are software makes it very easy.
paulmp3 said:Is it an electronic solenoid(sp), that works the bleeder valve... How does it get triggered to allow for more boost? Also would this map switch you are talking about, is it an actual switch or just a button on the laptop?
StuttersC said:No, it doesn't sound hard...Thank you for clarifying that you indeed snip the o2 sensor wire and modify that signal.
Can you control both the MAF and the O2 sensor at the same time?
jersey_emt said:Hmm...something tells me it's the latter.