How To: Rewire Fogs For Always On

I think my alarm may be upgraded/changed. Does the factory alarm have any Code Alarm components? My sensitivity controller says Code Alarm on it. I believe Circuit City used to sell these alarms, so I was guessing the guy I bought it from had an aftermarket alarm installed. Never paid much attention to it. Still uses the factory key fob's tho...

now that you mention it, i think mine DID flash when i had the factory alram still installed... io think there is some cross wiring that the factory alarm does that causes the fogs to flash since they tie into the running lights. i think the factory alarm will flash everything when it arms. the regular keyless system only flashes the turn signals.
 
now that you mention it, i think mine DID flash when i had the factory alram still installed... io think there is some cross wiring that the factory alarm does that causes the fogs to flash since they tie into the running lights. i think the factory alarm will flash everything when it arms. the regular keyless system only flashes the turn signals.

O ok, All my lights flash when I arm the alarm except lo/hi beams.
 
i have the keyless entry but i always thought that was the factory alarm i think. In other words, i have the remote control with the lock and unlock and panic button.
 
i have the keyless entry but i always thought that was the factory alarm i think. In other words, i have the remote control with the lock and unlock and panic button.

But is there an alarm? The key fob is the same, IIRC. But you can have keyless entry, or you can have an actual alarm.
 
yeah, all the fobs are the same, as the alarm is an extension of the keyless system. an easy check for the alarm system is if you have an LED mounted on the gauge cover, above the steering column.
 
yeah, all the fobs are the same, as the alarm is an extension of the keyless system. an easy check for the alarm system is if you have an LED mounted on the gauge cover, above the steering column.

Or, if you open the door with the alarm on, you'll know. ;)
 
This is one of the Best threads that i have read in a long time! Thanks man im going to give this a try and see if my Fog lights stay on with my parking lights
 
I just read this WHOLE thread, post by post. From what I gathered, there are basically three methods to all this madness.

1. The original way in 1st post, which was modified a few times and differs in terms of what kind of wires, connections, etc. to use.
2. The original way plus the wiring so the fogs stay on with the high beams
3. Method done by drew72ca to completely separate the fog operation from the light switches (so once the car is running or just key in ON position, you can toggle the fog light switch to on/off)

So after reading all that, I have these questions:

1. If I want to do method 3, in order to be able to turn the fog lights on and off with the fog light switch at any time the car is on/running, what is the best wire to use when trying to provide power to the red wire on the relay, so that the fog light switch is able to turn the fogs on/off whenever? Some have said cig lighter or dimmer button, others have used ignition wires, but what is the best method so as not to cause any wiring issues and too much power for one wire to handle? I'd want to be able to turn the fogs on/off when the key is in on position and for them to turn off immediately when I remove the key.

2. What is the best way to ground the red/white wire coming out of the fog light switch? I assume that it would be best to ground it to the body like someone posted earlier with a photo.

3. I would like for the fog lights to flash with the parking lights when I lock/unlock the car (I believe I have an alarm because there's a panic button on the remote, but I'm not 100% if that's an alarm or just panic button). However I want to be able to control this with the fog light switch as well, meaning that when I leave the fog light switch on, take out the key and lock the doors, the fogs will flash, but if I don't leave the switch on, they won't flash. Any specific way to do all this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
 
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Just what I was looking for!! So correct me if I'm wrong. Pretty much the the short white wire connects from the "Y" to the fog switch, the long white wire connects from the "Y" to the fog relay, and the green/black wire connects to the last end of the "Y"?? Which of the white wire does the male and female connect to?
 
I did it! Using Bumble G's schematic really helped. For U.S. cars it's a little different, but pretty simple. Look at his schematic and ignore the part about the DRL. Basically, there are two wires you need to work with...the red wire on the relay and the red/white wire on the switch. The red wire on the relay is where it gets the 12V to activate the relay and activate the fog lights. The red/white wire, on the switch, is where the circuit gets its ground. On U.S. cars, this wire goes through the headlight lever to make a ground when in low beam and remove the ground in high beam. So, here's what you do:

1. Cut the red wire on the relay
2. Splice a wire to the red wire on the relay for a 12V source (I piggybacked off my cigarette lighter so the lights can be active with the ignition)
3. Cut the red/white wire on the switch
4. Splice a wire to the red/white on the switch and attach that to ground somewhere.
5. Tape off, insulate, etc the loose red wire you cut from the relay and the loose red/white wire you cut from the switch.

The way I did it, my fog lights now will come on with my ignition and the switch still works to enable and disable. The lights work independent of the conditions of the headlights. If you want to go even further, you can try to find a power source to tap into for the red wire on the relay that only provides power when the engine is running, but this way was pretty simple and foolproof. The only thing you need to remember with the way I did it is that if the key is on (in acc, on) the fog lights will be on if the switch is on.

Hope this helps anyone wanting to do it.

Andy


Awesome, works great thanks.
 

I did it! Using Bumble G's schematic really helped. For U.S. cars it's a little different, but pretty simple. Look at his schematic and ignore the part about the DRL. Basically, there are two wires you need to work with...the red wire on the relay and the red/white wire on the switch. The red wire on the relay is where it gets the 12V to activate the relay and activate the fog lights. The red/white wire, on the switch, is where the circuit gets its ground. On U.S. cars, this wire goes through the headlight lever to make a ground when in low beam and remove the ground in high beam. So, here's what you do:

1. Cut the red wire on the relay
2. Splice a wire to the red wire on the relay for a 12V source (I piggybacked off my cigarette lighter so the lights can be active with the ignition)
3. Cut the red/white wire on the switch
4. Splice a wire to the red/white on the switch and attach that to ground somewhere.
5. Tape off, insulate, etc the loose red wire you cut from the relay and the loose red/white wire you cut from the switch.

The way I did it, my fog lights now will come on with my ignition and the switch still works to enable and disable. The lights work independent of the conditions of the headlights. If you want to go even further, you can try to find a power source to tap into for the red wire on the relay that only provides power when the engine is running, but this way was pretty simple and foolproof. The only thing you need to remember with the way I did it is that if the key is on (in acc, on) the fog lights will be on if the switch is on.

Hope this helps anyone wanting to do it.

Andy

OK Now that i went back and took some pics of my install i thought i would share my knowledge with all!! Sorry if this confuses anyone. If a moderator wants to use this in a sticky then go ahead. I hope this helps.


STEP 1
I PUSHED OUT FROM UNDER THE DASH UNTIL IT POPPED OUT.

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STEP 2
HERE IS THE FOR LIGHT HARNESS I POPPED OUT FROM BEHIND THE DASH AND REMOVED THE CONNECTION TO ACCESS THE WIRES.

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STEP 3
YOU ARE GOING TO NEED TO CRIMP ON A FEMALE CONNECTOR TO NEW WIRE BEFORE REPLACING. I THEN REPLACED THE GREEN AND BLACK WIRE WITH THE WIRE(WHITE) GOING TO THE "Y" CONNECTOR.

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STEP 4
I THEN DISCONNECTED THE FOGLIGHT RELAY(look at pic for location) AND PULLED(gently) OUT THE RED WIRE(power). (basicly the red wire is not going to be used and i wire tied it up and out of the way) AND THE WHITE WIRE IS REPLACING THE RED. (you will need to connect this wire to one of the open arms on the "Y" connector)

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STEP 5
THEN I CONNECTED THE GREEN AND BLACK WIRE TO THE LAST OPEN ARM OF THE "Y" CONNECTOR AND THEN REINSTALLED EVERYTHING.

HERE IS THE FINAL OUTCOME............

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ITEMS USED............
YOU WILL NEED (2) FEMALE SPADE CONNECTORS NOT (1 MALE AND 1 FEMALE)

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HERE IS A CLOSE UP OF THE "Y" CONNECTOR AND PART# FOR REFERENCE
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I didn't touch any green/black wires. I followed drew72ca with my small exception noted in my last post. Here are Drew's instructions:

1. Cut the red wire on the relay
2. Splice a wire to the red wire on the relay for a 12V source (Drew used the cig lighter, I used the thick blue ignition wire)
3. Cut the red/white wire on the fog switch
4. Splice a wire to the red/white on the switch and attach that to ground somewhere.
5. Tape off, insulate, etc the loose red wire you cut from the relay and the loose red/white wire you cut from the switch.

I would mend the green/black wires you cut and try following these directions.

Here are some of the pertinent posts that I felt answered most of the questions. I just read through the whole thing since I just upgraded my fogs to LED Switchbacks (6000k/3000k color temp) and need to have more control over the fogs lest they turn yellow whenever I flash my high beams. Wish me luck.
 
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