2013~2016 16.5 CX-5 Brake service quotes

Kaps

Contributor
:
CX-5 Touring 2016.5
Hi All

Wanted an opinion on what did you pay your dealer for brake service. Here are my quotes in USD $

335 + Taxes - 1 Axle : pads + rotors turned AND fluid flush + replace (all 4 sides).

199 1 Axle pads + Rotors turned

My rears will need service before the front ones do - So I will get them done on separate occasions hence the split in quote.

Essentially 535 for all 4 pads / rotors turned and full fluid service. I plan on doing it at every 50-70K miles. Also what has been your experience on CX5 rotors? Throwaway after first use or can be turned and will be fine category? I am eager to hear your numbers even for comparable makes like Toyota Honda etc.


A non related Question: I have seen aftermarket rear camera upgrades on eBay in the $50 range. On a rainy night with multiple light sources the 16.5 Camera is pretty awful. Seems a doable job as aftermarket ones are plug n play or should I just put RainX and be done? has anyone made any cover to protect it from getting wet?

Thanks matey
 
A non related Question: I have seen aftermarket rear camera upgrades on eBay in the $50 range. On a rainy night with multiple light sources the 16.5 Camera is pretty awful. Seems a doable job as aftermarket ones are plug n play or should I just put RainX and be done? has anyone made any cover to protect it from getting wet?

Thanks matey

Instead of messing with the camera, what I decided to do, was to buy some high output LED REVERSE Light Bulbs. The wife and I have been very happy with the better lighting for viewing the reverse cam at night. Water droplets are another issue...
 
Instead of messing with the camera, what I decided to do, was to buy some high output LED REVERSE Light Bulbs. The wife and I have been very happy with the better lighting for viewing the reverse cam at night. Water droplets are another issue...

Ok I will try that and for water droplets maybe coat it with rain X. Problem is once water splashes on it, there is no way to clean it easily.
 
Also what has been your experience on CX5 rotors? Throwaway after first use or can be turned and will be fine category? I am eager to hear your numbers even for comparable makes like Toyota Honda etc.

I was able to turn my rotors twice before shop said they couldn't do it again and would have to replace next time.
 
Ok I will try that and for water droplets maybe coat it with rain X. Problem is once water splashes on it, there is no way to clean it easily.

Always been a minor nitpick. Can only clean it by going out and cleaning it lol.

I've Rain-X'd the little camera a lot and I've never really seen it making a difference. Whether direct contact with rainfall, or water splashing from road/environment while driving, it just gets wet.
 
I was able to turn my rotors twice before shop said they couldn't do it again and would have to replace next time.

Most shops around here tend to turn them down to the minimum the first time, hard to find some one who knows what they're really doing on a brake lathe. It's one reason I don't get them turned anymore. One shop even had them leaning on their edge against the wall right off of the lathe when I went to pick them up.
 
Hi All

Wanted an opinion on what did you pay your dealer for brake service. Here are my quotes in USD $

335 + Taxes - 1 Axle : pads + rotors turned AND fluid flush + replace (all 4 sides).

199 1 Axle pads + Rotors turned

My rears will need service before the front ones do - So I will get them done on separate occasions hence the split in quote.

Essentially 535 for all 4 pads / rotors turned and full fluid service. I plan on doing it at every 50-70K miles. Also what has been your experience on CX5 rotors? Throwaway after first use or can be turned and will be fine category? I am eager to hear your numbers even for comparable makes like Toyota Honda etc.


A non related Question: I have seen aftermarket rear camera upgrades on eBay in the $50 range. On a rainy night with multiple light sources the 16.5 Camera is pretty awful. Seems a doable job as aftermarket ones are plug n play or should I just put RainX and be done? has anyone made any cover to protect it from getting wet?

Thanks matey

Are the rotors in bad shape? Are you sure that they need to be machined?
 
I don't get why people automatically get their rotors turned at every pad replacement. Unless something has been wearing wrong, just replacing the pads is usually all that's needed for a 1st pad change
 
I don't get why people automatically get their rotors turned at every pad replacement. Unless something has been wearing wrong, just replacing the pads is usually all that's needed for a 1st pad change

I don't know what your roads are like down there in the winter, but up here they're subjuct to a lot of salt and brime (really bad stuff for a car as far as corrosion goes). Here are my rotors after my first pad change at 60k miles off of my 2014 CX5....I would not use something like these for a second set of pads..cooling vents are virtually clogged with rust and corrosion.
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I agree with dunhillmc. I have never needed to have a rotor turned nor due I expect it unless there is damage. Usually just sand the rotor and install new pads. Ed
 
use a dial indicator on the rotors to be sure the runout is w/in spec.

check the thickness

if both the above are ok, keep them
 
Madar, I take it that the crack around the rotor was the result of hammering it to remove.I live in the midwest and they are liberal with the salt and brine in winter.I do make it a point to spray down the brakes at every car wash along with the radiator and condenser .Salt eats the hell out of aluminum.I spent hundreds on my previous car trying to find an A/C leak that was a corroded condenser.Took 4 times til leak showed up down in corner where dirt and salt could lodge.Spent about 500$ with the recharges and finally new condenser. Think I'm still a little pissed about that one.

Before changing my rear pads back in June, I pulled the wheels to see what was needed before ordering parts.The rear rotors were in great shape for runout,surface finish,thickness (plenty of metal left) and parallelism.So just pads and shim kit needed.The small threaded hole for the jack bolt was needed to get rotor off.Thin coating of anti-seize applied before installation.
 
Madar, I take it that the crack around the rotor was the result of hammering it to remove.I live in the midwest and they are liberal with the salt and brine in winter.I do make it a point to spray down the brakes at every car wash along with the radiator and condenser .Salt eats the hell out of aluminum.I spent hundreds on my previous car trying to find an A/C leak that was a corroded condenser.Took 4 times til leak showed up down in corner where dirt and salt could lodge.Spent about 500$ with the recharges and finally new condenser. Think I'm still a little pissed about that one.

Before changing my rear pads back in June, I pulled the wheels to see what was needed before ordering parts.The rear rotors were in great shape for runout,surface finish,thickness (plenty of metal left) and parallelism.So just pads and shim kit needed.The small threaded hole for the jack bolt was needed to get rotor off.Thin coating of anti-seize applied before installation.
The new pads (OEM Mazda-- NOT value line) had great bite on the (unturned) rotors.
 
Madar, I take it that the crack around the rotor was the result of hammering it to remove.I live in the midwest and they are liberal with the salt and brine in winter.I do make it a point to spray down the brakes at every car wash along with the radiator and condenser .Salt eats the hell out of aluminum.I spent hundreds on my previous car trying to find an A/C leak that was a corroded condenser.Took 4 times til leak showed up down in corner where dirt and salt could lodge.Spent about 500$ with the recharges and finally new condenser. Think I'm still a little pissed about that one.

Before changing my rear pads back in June, I pulled the wheels to see what was needed before ordering parts.The rear rotors were in great shape for runout,surface finish,thickness (plenty of metal left) and parallelism.So just pads and shim kit needed.The small threaded hole for the jack bolt was needed to get rotor off.Thin coating of anti-seize applied before installation.
The new pads (OEM Mazda-- NOT value line) had great bite on the (unturned) rotors.

What crack are you seeing?
 
Looks like a crack going around.Maybe it's just a shadow due to the angle of the light.Sure looked like a big crack to me.
 
Those are the air vents. I said they were all corroded and rusting shut.
 
NOW I get it! The pictures show the INSIDE of the rotor.I thought that was the outside of the rotor with a crack where the "brim" meets the "tophat" (where the braking surface meets the center hub).Said somethin' about getting my eyes examined, mumble mumble mumble.LOL
 
I don't get why people automatically get their rotors turned at every pad replacement. Unless something has been wearing wrong, just replacing the pads is usually all that's needed for a 1st pad change

Eh, I got the pulsating braking from an uneven rotor before my first pad change at 54k miles. Unless you're getting pads much sooner or something...

I agree with dunhillmc. I have never needed to have a rotor turned nor due I expect it unless there is damage. Usually just sand the rotor and install new pads. Ed

You live in Florida, and he lives in Texas lol.
 
By the time you wear your pads to 2-3 mm you will cause your rotors to warp slightly. More so if you brake while turning instead of before entering the turn. Such a huge percentage is labor that turning might be few additional dollars. One more reason why my dealer offers it could be people just replace pads and with bad rotors they will squek and wear sooner.
Finally what you think on price*
 
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