Both low beams stopped working at same time. Common cause?

Aerobat66

Member
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2003 Protege5
Both low beam headlights on my daughter's '03 Protege5 stopped working at the same time last night. Both bulbs have been replaced within the last year. High beams on both work fine, parking lights and flashers work fine, but no low beams.

Also, at about the same time the lights quit working, her the battery light on her dash coincidentally came on too, briefly. She was on the interstate at that time.

I'm thinking either the headlight relay, or the headlight switch itself. A relay is only $21, but I hate blindly shotgunning parts, for nothing, and wanted to ask if this is a common problem, and if so, what the common cause is. If I don't get any leads, I will go ahead and try the relay, but if the headlight switches or something else is a common problem, then I'd rather try look into that first.
 
Both low beam headlights on my daughter's '03 Protege5 stopped working at the same time last night. Both bulbs have been replaced within the last year. High beams on both work fine, parking lights and flashers work fine, but no low beams.

Also, at about the same time the lights quit working, her the battery light on her dash coincidentally came on too, briefly. She was on the interstate at that time.

I'm thinking either the headlight relay, or the headlight switch itself. A relay is only $21, but I hate blindly shotgunning parts, for nothing, and wanted to ask if this is a common problem, and if so, what the common cause is. If I don't get any leads, I will go ahead and try the relay, but if the headlight switches or something else is a common problem, then I'd rather try look into that first.

I may be mistaken, but I believe the high beams and low beams use the same relay. So if the relay was bad none of them would work. You could verify easily by checking with a meter or a test light and see if you have power going to the wires.

Protege5's are notorious for eating headlight bulbs. I never had one last more than about 6-8 months... Some didn't last more than a month. Doesn't matter if they're expensive sylvania or cheap chinese they all burn out prematurely so I bought a 10 pack of bulbs on ebay for like 8 bucks and got pretty good at changing them out. It's also hard on these, especially with fog lights on, to notice if one of them has burned out. So it's possible one has been burned out for a little while and now it's really noticeable when the second burns out.
 
... Also, at about the same time the lights quit working, her the battery light on her dash coincidentally came on too, briefly.

I had my alternator crap out on me and the battery light came on.

I checked the voltage at the battery and it was almost 18 Volts.

Your alternator may be on its way out.
You may have had a voltage spike that blew your bulbs.

Coincidentally, I didn't blow any bulbs though.
 
I may be mistaken, but I believe the high beams and low beams use the same relay. So if the relay was bad none of them would work. You could verify easily by checking with a meter or a test light and see if you have power going to the wires.

Protege5's are notorious for eating headlight bulbs. I never had one last more than about 6-8 months... Some didn't last more than a month. Doesn't matter if they're expensive sylvania or cheap chinese they all burn out prematurely so I bought a 10 pack of bulbs on ebay for like 8 bucks and got pretty good at changing them out. It's also hard on these, especially with fog lights on, to notice if one of them has burned out. So it's possible one has been burned out for a little while and now it's really noticeable when the second burns out.

I don't currently have access to the car, and am just trying to get prepared on exactly what to do when I can get to it. That was my first thought last night - one bulb was already out and it became quite noticeable when the 2nd one went out. It may very well be that, and the first thing I will do is just buy 2 new low beam bulbs (I had forgotten that it had separate bulbs for low/high).

After doing some research in the last few minutes, I was reminded how to check a relay, so at least I can do that before needlessly wasting money on one.

If it's not the bulbs or relay, then it is probably either the headlight switch, or a break in the wiring somewhere. If not bulbs or relay, then the real detective work will begin.

Thanks
 
Also, my daughter just told me that both bulbs were working. One blew, and then 5 seconds later, the 2nd one blew. I am thinking that when the first blew, it put more current through the wiring to the 2nd one, which made it blow too.
 
In that case, I think pcb is probably more on the right track. Check voltage with the car running. If it's more than 14.4-14.5 volts then the alternator needs to be replaced since it is internally regulated.
 
... since it is internally regulated.

Actually, it's not.
The alternator is controlled by the ECU with a control wire. There is no output from the alternator if that wire is broken or not connected.

My alternator went to full output when I went bad so I guess the ECU lost control of it.

It's the Light Green wire with the White stripe.

 
I may be mistaken, but I believe the high beams and low beams use the same relay. So if the relay was bad none of them would work...

There is one relay for both the left and right headlights, including the high and low beams.
So if your high beams are working then the relay is working.



My concern is when the battery light was on briefly.
I know that the light will come on if the voltage gets too high. (as well as other reasons.)
 
Thanks for the replies so far.

Apparently, it isn't the relay, and may just be the pesky habit these cars have of blowing bulbs. Thinking back, I have replaced both bulbs maybe 6 months ago. I also replaced the alternator several months ago. The alternator is Autozone junk, so it may be making the problem worse.

There is also confusion (for me) regarding the bulb type. Some bulb ID sources have been incorrect in the past, and I made a note that the low beam bulb is an H7. Can anyone verify that?

Also, I am seeing LED H7 bulbs on ebay. Has anyone tried those? I wonder if they might be less prone to burning out early. But perhaps voltage spikes burn them out even quicker. Just wondering, and they seem to be about the same price as Sylvanias, so they might be a better value.
 
My P5 never blew a bulb in 15 years. The MSP's lights got so dull that I replaced the housings and bulbs at the same time..Got sick of polishing them every three months. No bulbs ever blew though on either Protege. I now have LEDs in the MSP and they're bright as Hell.

You're correct, low beams for a P5 are H7.
 
There is also confusion (for me) regarding the bulb type. Some bulb ID sources have been incorrect in the past, and I made a note that the low beam bulb is an H7. Can anyone verify that?

The Protege sedan has a different headlight housing with a single bulb for the hi and lo beam.
That could be the source of the confusion.



Some guys have put the sedan housing on their P5's because they got tired of bulbs burning out.

There is an adaptor on the low beam bulb for the P5 that likes to get all burnt and crispy.
It can help to replace it.

 
The Protege sedan has a different headlight housing with a single bulb for the hi and lo beam.
That could be the source of the confusion.



Some guys have put the sedan housing on their P5's because they got tired of bulbs burning out.

There is an adaptor on the low beam bulb for the P5 that likes to get all burnt and crispy.
It can help to replace it.


Aha - yes, that pesky adapter. I remember the first time I returned bulbs that "wouldn't fit", and the counter guy told me about the adapter. I made a note of that in her little notebook. Seems I should go ahead and replace those. Just prior to or after replacing her bulbs the last time, one bulb was going on/off as she was driving, and I recall wiggling the connector. It started working again then. That could be the cause of this whole issue. I will buy 2 new adapters now - thanks.
 
My P5 never blew a bulb in 15 years...

I've had my car for almost 10 years now and I've only replaced my low beam bulbs twice.

I'm in Canada with daytime running lights and I did the "headlight mod" where all my lights turn off with the ignition, so I have all my lights on when driving (including running lights)
So I don't know?(uhm)(uhm)
 
Aha - yes, that pesky adapter. I remember the first time I returned bulbs that "wouldn't fit", and the counter guy told me about the adapter.

I remember throwing my bulbs in the garbage can at the auto store parking lot, along with the adapters. I had to fish them out of the garbage. lol

PS. Some Dielectric grease on the terminals can help a lot.
 
I've had my car for almost 10 years now and I've only replaced my low beam bulbs twice.

I'm in Canada with daytime running lights and I did the "headlight mod" where all my lights turn off with the ignition, so I have all my lights on when driving (including running lights)
So I don't know?(uhm)(uhm)

No DRL in California and if you've noticed my MSP thread you can guess how many miles the P5 had when I sold it. Well under 100k. I did replace the bulbs once, but only to put a set of Silverstars in, which lasted until I got rid of the car.

I miss the P5 headlights compared to the MSP though...so much brighter. (shocked)

I have a question for the OP. How secure were those clips that hold the bulbs in place when you replaced the bulbs? I remember them being a real b**** to get right and if they're not secured properly, the hot filament in the bulbs could shake/rattle, which will blow them out real quick.
 
No DRL in California and if you've noticed my MSP thread you can guess how many miles the P5 had when I sold it. Well under 100k. I did replace the bulbs once, but only to put a set of Silverstars in, which lasted until I got rid of the car.

I miss the P5 headlights compared to the MSP though...so much brighter. (shocked)

I have a question for the OP. How secure were those clips that hold the bulbs in place when you replaced the bulbs? I remember them being a real b**** to get right and if they're not secured properly, the hot filament in the bulbs could shake/rattle, which will blow them out real quick.

I haven't seen the car yet, this time around, and will go to her house and change the bulbs tonight. I haven't dealt with them since I last changed the bulbs about 6 months ago (guessing on time frame). I don't recall how secure the metal wire bulb clips were. I do recall them being a true b**** to loosen and re-install, though. I told her that I will find a multi-pack of cheap bulbs (haven't found those yet), have her keep them in her car as spares, and teach her how to change them, because it is quite tricky to do.

From post #11 above, I ordered new adapters, as well as bulbs ($3 for the bulbs, vs $14 Walmart Sylvanias) from RockAuto. I figured I would just replace the adapters as a precaution (or it may even be a cure). While I am in there, I will pay attention to the security of the wire bulb clips. If, after installing new bulbs, the bulbs or wire clips are loose, then I will make an adjustment to secure them. Maybe bend the clip wires a little, to get rid of a rattle.
 
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... If, after installing new bulbs, the bulbs or wire clips are loose, then I will make an adjustment to secure them. Maybe bend the clip wires a little, to get rid of a rattle.

Be careful while doing that.
I remember one guy here on the forum that broke his clip and had to MacGyver a new clip out of a coat hanger or something.
 
Update:

Last night I went to my daughter's house with 2 new bulbs. Upon pulling the old ones out, the filaments were broken, just as I had come to expect. Installed 2 new bulbs and the headlights worked again.

When the new adapters and $3 bulbs from RockAuto get here, I will replace the adapters, give her the 2 bulbs to carry in her car as spares, and show her how to pull the bulbs out. If/when the bulbs burn out again, then she can just replace them herself, maybe even right then and there. Hopefully the old adapters contributed to the problem and the new ones may help these new bulbs last longer, though. But I don't really expect they will last more than 6 months or so, like the last ones did.

It was just a weird coincidence that both bulbs burned out within 5 seconds of each other, and the battery light also came on briefly at the same time. That led me to believe there was something more serious going on. Oh, both of my daughters were on a road trip at that time, it was dark and they were a state away, heading home. Dad got a little worried about them.

As a side note, my oldest just had to be at work the next day. They had pulled over in a suburb of Auburn Alabama, luckily finding a gas station to pull into. I suggested that they get an Uber ride to the next exit, get a motel room, and drive home during daylight the next day. Since she had to be at work, her husband drove 2 hours there, brought them back to their house, and then I had to drive him back down there again the next day, for him to drive the car home. 5-5.5 total hours of driving, and a whole bunch of gas, just for that.

I will also suggest that next time this happens, if she doesn't feel safe pulling over the change the bulbs, to just turn on her high beams, so she can get home, and feel bad about blinding oncoming traffic.
 
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I will also suggest that next time this happens, if she doesn't feel safe pulling over the change the bulbs, to just turn on her high beams, so she can get home, and feel bad about blinding oncoming traffic.

Don't forget the fog lights.
She can turn them on too.
 
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.., and show her how to pull the bulbs out. If/when the bulbs burn out again, then she can just replace them herself, ..






Yeah, it's really easy. lol
You just unhook the retaining spring.

There's about an inch of clearance on the passenger side and if you touch the new bulb going in, you have to clean it and start over.

I'm glad I've only had to replace them twice. lol
 
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