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Thread: Must have CX-5 Tools and Items

  1. #16
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    Part of those factory-specified locations is so you don't jack up the car at the midpoint, where balancing/tipping come into play.

    They probably want to avoid someone who will try to get both tires on a given side up off the ground at the same time.

  2. #17
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    so doesn't anyone know if a regular sized tire fits into the spare compartment
    and also be able to close the spare top cover ???

  3. #18
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    I would do it how yrwei52 suggested. I would probably get these rubber pads for the jack stands https://www.amazon.com/Seven-Sparta-...291N61RXH3QEVW

    Review of the jack stand adapters https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OxKkwKGaqn8

  4. #19
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    Arrow Must have CX-5 Tools and Items

    Quote Originally Posted by joemazdacx5 View Post
    so doesn't anyone know if a regular sized tire fits into the spare compartment
    and also be able to close the spare top cover ???
    A regular sized tire will fit into the spare well, but it will be too wide to make the trunk cover flat.

  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chocolate View Post
    The other 3 are only for shop work, they usually have hydraulic lifts with flat pad lifts that aren't ideal for pinch welds. Want to avoid potential damage.

    I don't trust wood or slotted rubber blocks, they can shatter. Seen it before. Sometimes wood blocks will give you a warning before they fail, sometimes not. I'd trust a solid heavy rubber block (not slotted). Plywood is also more than strong enough to hold a heavy vehicle and my preferred material.
    Not if you align the wood grain vertically to pinch weld line so that the wood won't get cut split.

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by MyFirstMazda View Post
    I would do it how yrwei52 suggested. I would probably get these rubber pads for the jack stands https://www.amazon.com/Seven-Sparta-...291N61RXH3QEVW

    Review of the jack stand adapters https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OxKkwKGaqn8
    Interesting product and thanks for the info.

  7. #22
    Registered Member Chocolate's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by yrwei52 View Post
    Not if you align the wood grain vertically to pinch weld line so that the wood won't get cut split.
    True. The rubber jack stand block posted above looks solid, I was referring to the cheap, thin rubber slotted blocks out there.

  8. #23
    Registered Member Chocolate's Avatar

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    I used these in previous vehicle and it works great with the CX-5 as well. I use them with my cordless Ryobi 18V impact gun. These impact rated sockets allow me to change the wheel quickly on the side of the road or at home.



    https://amzn.to/2HqHJsg

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chocolate View Post
    I used these in previous vehicle and it works great with the CX-5 as well. I use them with my cordless Ryobi 18V impact gun. These impact rated sockets allow me to change the wheel quickly on the side of the road or at home.



    https://amzn.to/2HqHJsg
    Just a note, a previous member reported the "caps" of the OEM lugnuts denting in due to excessive pressure while using an impact gun. Purely cosmetic, but just thought I'd let you know as a cautionary tale.

  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by sm1ke View Post
    Just a note, a previous member reported the "caps" of the OEM lugnuts denting in due to excessive pressure while using an impact gun. Purely cosmetic, but just thought I'd let you know as a cautionary tale.
    That would be me. I used a shallow socket unaware of that the lugs have caps and the bottom of the socket flattened the caps with the impact gun. A deep socket has no chance to damage them. I did put a wrap of black tape around my deep socket, extending past the edge for extra scratch protection. You can see the pictures in this thread https://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...68497-Lug-Nuts

  11. #26
    Registered Member Chocolate's Avatar

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    These are deep enough to protect the face of the lugs. On the subject of damage, I've found you have a much greater change breaking a wheel stud with a breaker bar than you do with an impact. The Ryobi impact and many others have 3 power settings so you only need to use the force you need.

  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chocolate View Post
    Mazda is very specific that only the pinch welds should be used for jacking the vehicle. May just be to keep the lawyers happy, but those are the 4 points I will use to lift the vehicle...

    There are probably a number of placements you could lift the vehicle other than the specified points. For $50, I'm sticking with the factory points 100% to avoid headaches.
    Chocolate -

    The information you posted is incorrect.

    The pinch welds at the 4 corners of the vehicle are NOT the only approved jacking locations.
    Someone else later in this thread posted a page from the owners manual showing the jacking locations you should be using instead.
    The only time the pinch welds should be used are when you're changing a flat tire on the side of the road using the emergency jack.

    If you're working on your vehicle, you should be using the central front & rear jacking locations, which bring both front or rear tires off the ground at the same time.
    Then you simply place jack stands at the front/rear pinch welds and lower the vehicle off the jack.

    You are making the process much more difficult and expensive for yourself by jacking up each corner of the vehicle and buying special rubber pads.

  13. #28
    Registered Member Chocolate's Avatar

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    Thanks for the clarification. I have not finished reading the owner's manual and hadn't seen that page.

    I still prefer not to lift the vehicle from the rear differential, even if it approved by Mazda, just personal preference. Especially on a light SUV, not built like a heavy truck. I'd rather lift less weight at a time.

  14. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chocolate View Post
    Thanks for the clarification. I have not finished reading the owner's manual and hadn't seen that page.

    I still prefer not to lift the vehicle from the rear differential, even if it approved by Mazda, just personal preference. Especially on a light SUV, not built like a heavy truck. I'd rather lift less weight at a time.
    Even the most basic floor jacks are rated for 2 tons (4000 lbs), which is more than an entire CX-5 weighs.
    So you are only lifting ~1/2 of the floor jack capacity by using the central front & rear jacking points.

    Besides, what type of work are you doing when using a floor jack at the corner pinch welds?
    I can't think of any scenario were I would want to lift the car at those locations.

    For any type of standard DIY service (oil changes, tire rotations, brakes, ect), you would want to lift the entire front and/or rear and put the car on jack stands.

  15. #30
    Registered Member Chocolate's Avatar

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    Thanks for your input. I'm not in a rush when I'm doing it so my preference is to lift a corner a time and then put the stands nearby on the frame. Lifting on the two central points is faster.
    Last edited by Chocolate; 08-27-2019 at 10:34 AM.

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