Must have CX-5 Tools and Items

an automated system above the engine is best

a hand carried one with adequate capacity next to the driver is 2nd best

a new vehicle shouldn't really need one tho (unless you race it)
 
a fire extinguisher in the rear storage cubby is about as good as none at all

Really? Having one available is just as useless as not having one at all? Explain your logic.

I assume that you mean to say that if someone were to keep a fire extinguisher in the car, ideally it should be mounted somewhere that is within the driver's reach, which I do agree with. It should also be small enough that it doesn't get in the way. But to say that having one in the trunk is as good as not having one at all is just wrong.

If I'm on the road and I come upon a fire, I can pop the trunk, get the extinguisher and attempt to put out the fire. If I don't have the extinguisher, I can't do anything to combat the fire. Thus, having one is better than not.
 
So you have 4 floor jacks for 4 pinch weld adapters? ;)

IMO pinch weld points are better suited for jack stand. If Im going to lift front or rear of the CX-5, Id jack up the front or rear cross member or rear differential case like Mazda Workshop Manual suggested with powerful enough floor jack, then put 2 jack stands under the pinch weld point on both sides. To me, I dont need pinch weld adapter as I seldom actually jack up the car at pinch weld point with floor jack, may be only doing the tire rotation, then I use a piece of 2X4 to serve as a cushion.

A good tip, a hockey puck fits perfectly in the front jack up point where the indication marks are, clearing the plastic and the metal bump. I experimented and jacked up the front of the car with no problems. The hockey puck is a great non slip cushion. If you have a Dick's sporting goods, it is $1.99 https://www.dickssportinggoods.com/p/ar-practice-hockey-puck-16anruprctcpckxxxhka/16anruprctcpckxxxhka
 
Here is a fun experiment for you:

Give an engine fire a 30 second head start, and then try to put it out.

You also say "small" - that is another problem.
 
Gotcha.

Without having seen how these are configured, or how tightly they lay under the hood, I wonder if you couldn't put a spacer/spacers behind each of those 2 rear mounting brackets. That would extend the distance the struts pushed up the hood. It might not require a lot at the rear pivot point to get exponentially more lift at the front.

Of course, that might require finding a longer mounting bolt to go through the spacers to catch the nut on the hood. And when the hood is closed, the struts would be laying a little "deeper" in the engine compartment...they might not have room to do so without bumping into the body.

If required (and assuming you could get to the nuts and there's clearance), the front mounting post could be spaced up so the struts would lay properly when the hood is closed...there seems to be plenty of thread on those posts.

Just spitballing here.

FWIW, the hood sits higher on my 2019 Sig with the the struts compared to the hood prop.

The linked video explains why the balls should be mounted where they are, for clearance inside, basically.
 
FWIW, the hood sits higher on my 2019 Sig with the the struts compared to the hood prop.

The linked video explains why the balls should be mounted where they are, for clearance inside, basically.

I agree, the mounting location needs to stay the same. But there may be room to add spacers to get a little more lift.

I was just trying to help out the tall guy with some ideas.

btw: I just received mine this morning!! Gonna put them on later today. I cannot extend or compress them by hand. Sure hope they're not defective.
 
I agree, the mounting location needs to stay the same. But there may be room to add spacers to get a little more lift.

I was just trying to help out the tall guy with some ideas.

btw: I just received mine this morning!! Gonna put them on later today. I cannot extend or compress them by hand. Sure hope they're not defective.

That's the way mine came. I had to install one, and compress it, then remove it and install the other to compress. I could not compress both when initially attached. Use a small screwdriver to release the clip on the bottom ball receiver to remove it.

Hope this helps. It's about a 15 minute job.
 
I agree, the mounting location needs to stay the same. But there may be room to add spacers to get a little more lift.

I was just trying to help out the tall guy with some ideas.

btw: I just received mine this morning!! Gonna put them on later today. I cannot extend or compress them by hand. Sure hope they're not defective.

If you were able to compress them by hand, they'd be defective!
 
Hope this helps. It's about a 15 minute job.

You were right. 15 minutes and it's done.

Unfortunately, I dropped the ratchet and it put a hairline crack down the headlight lens...at least, I hope it's the lens and not part of the entire assembly. I can't feel it, but it's from the top all the way down to the bottom. If it leaks, I'm screwed.

$&@*(&!@#*!!!
 
You were right. 15 minutes and it's done.

Unfortunately, I dropped the ratchet and it put a hairline crack down the headlight lens...at least, I hope it's the lens and not part of the entire assembly. I can't feel it, but it's from the top all the way down to the bottom. If it leaks, I'm screwed.

$&@*(&!@#*!!!

Ouch! Sorry to hear that. Done things like that WAAAY too many times.
 
Ouch! Sorry to hear that. Done things like that WAAAY too many times.

It's classic me. The one spot it could hit to do the most damage...

That's what happens when you've mostly driven used cars that cost under $1,000. You're not used to nice things.

I'm gonna order a fender blanket.
 
It's classic me. The one spot it could hit to do the most damage...

That's what happens when you've mostly driven used cars that cost under $1,000. You're not used to nice things.

I'm gonna order a fender blanket.

I must admit that I took a large towel out and covered everything before I started.

Are you sure you cracked it? Mine have a straight line from top to bottom about 8" from the rear. I find it hard to believe a dropped wrench would crack the lens.

Hope it's not cracked...look at the other side.
 
I must admit that I took a large towel out and covered everything before I started.

Are you sure you cracked it? Mine have a straight line from top to bottom about 8" from the rear. I find it hard to believe a dropped wrench would crack the lens.

Hope it's not cracked...look at the other side.

You are right. I went back out and looked at the other lens. It's a manufacturing seam. (crazy)

Thanks for that response.

All spun up and nowhere to go.

*sigh*
 
A good tip, a hockey puck fits perfectly in the front jack up point where the indication marks are, clearing the plastic and the metal bump. I experimented and jacked up the front of the car with no problems. The hockey puck is a great non slip cushion. If you have a Dick's sporting goods, it is $1.99 https://www.dickssportinggoods.com/p/ar-practice-hockey-puck-16anruprctcpckxxxhka/16anruprctcpckxxxhka

But can it withstand the hydraulic press?



In all seriousness I trust the aluminum adapter a lot more than a rubber puck. I have seen a rubber jack adapter shatter suddenly (personal experience) and they don't give any warning.
 
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But can it withstand the hydraulic press?



In all seriousness I trust the aluminum adapter a lot more than a rubber puck. I have seen a rubber jack adapter shatter suddenly (personal experience) and they don't give any warning.

My tip is for jacking the car up from the front center flat jack point, to lift both front wheels off the ground. My jack saddle is a little too large for that jack spot, it goes on part of the plastic under-body and against a bump of metal that is next to that jack point. Many people will have the same problem. The puck fits perfectly flush against the front center flat (see picture). This is for when one wants to have all 4 wheels off the ground to make quick work of rotating the tires. The aluminum pinch weld adapter should work good when jacking up a wheel from the pinch weld jack point.

JackPoint.jpg
 
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And whenever jacking up a car, be observant and careful and gradual, and lower the car down if anything sounds or looks wrong. Don't do what this person did (skip to 3:24). He made many mistakes, used multiple pads, didn't place the jack properly, cranks away on it without looking, doesn't lower the jack when hearing bad sounds, etc.

 
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And whenever jacking up a car, be observant and careful and gradual, and lower the car down if anything sounds or looks wrong. Don't do what this person did (skip to 3:24). He made many mistakes, used multiple pads, didn't place the jack properly, cranks away on it without looking, doesn't lower the jack when hearing bad sounds, etc.

Oh. My. God. That hurt to watch.. but I have to admit, I did laugh when he describes the damage and says that the carbon fiber side skirt is "cracked a little bit" lol.

Just another reason to avoid jacking at the pinch weld unless its an emergency. Most (if not all) emergency scissor jacks have an indentation for the pinch weld, so the adapters really aren't necessary IMO. When I was much younger, I had an Accord that I would jack up at the pinch welds to change wheels. It was a lowered vehicle and I wasn't familiar with jacking it up from the standard points. Anyway, while jacking it up from one of the pinch welds one day, I heard that telltale splintering sound, and immediately lowered the jack. It turns out the pinch weld had started to deflect to one side, and the splintering was the sound of it deflecting even further. If I hadn't stopped, I might have ended up with the same problem this guy had. After this incident, I made my own ramps to drive up on so that I could get the jack under the car and raise it from the standard jack points. Lesson learned.
 
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