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Thread: Flat tire

  1. #31
    Registered Member yrwei52's Avatar
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    Arrow Flat tire

    Quote Originally Posted by macandal View Post
    This was also the recommendation at Americaís Tire, put two in the back. Unfortunately I just got the one tire to replace the busted one.
    At only 13,029 miles, you may be better off to get one Toyo A36 tire and shave it to the same tread depth like the other three as usually stock Toyo tires should last 25K~35K miles. Discount Tire / America's Tire can do this for you. And Discount Tire / America's Tire will match the Tire Rack's price ($139.90) if their price is higher.

  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by macandal View Post
    Really? So, Iím in the middle of nowhere and my front tire goes outóIím SOL???


    No, not SOL. You just take a tire off the rear, move it to the front, and put spare on the rear.

  3. #33
    Registered Member yrwei52's Avatar
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    Arrow Flat tire

    Quote Originally Posted by mazdadude View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by macandal View Post
    Really? So, Iím in the middle of nowhere and my front tire goes outóIím SOL???


    No, not SOL. You just take a tire off the rear, move it to the front, and put spare on the rear.
    Yes, two tire changes needed to make sure the mini-spare is at rear if the flat is at front. But have you tried changing tire on the highway roadside? It's very dangerous with cars passing by, and usually the shoulder is too soft for the jack coming with the car. Changing tire twice on the highway roadside increases the risk of accident happening.

    BTW, you can't put on the stock mini spare at front on 2019 CX-5 with 2.5T anyway due to bigger front disk calipers.

  4. #34
    Work in Progress sm1ke's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by yrwei52 View Post
    Yes, two tire changes needed to make sure the mini-spare is at rear if the flat is at front. But have you tried changing tire on the highway roadside? It's very dangerous with cars passing by, and usually the shoulder is too soft for the jack coming with the car. Changing tire twice on the highway roadside increases the risk of accident happening.
    Its safer to do that than to drive with the spare up front, especially on the highway.

  5. #35
    Registered Member yrwei52's Avatar
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    Arrow Flat tire

    Quote Originally Posted by sm1ke View Post
    That's great, but do you disagree with the reasoning RE: understeer vs. oversteer?

    Seat belts used to be optional as well. Things change. If you want to stick to the old unsafe way, that's your prerogative. The reasons for putting a new pair of tires on the rear vs. on the front makes perfect sense to me, and tire manufacturers and tire shops currently recommend the same. I'll take their word and common sense over what used to be recommended (who knows how many) years ago.

    We can't be concentrating only one area for safety, and each driver reacts differently in dangerous driving condition. Michelin reversed their previous recommendation for the reason of resisting hydroplaning, but it ignored all other driving situation and the danger of changing tires on the road side. And I'm not sure understeer is easier to correct by every driver compared to oversteer either.

    All I said is to use our common sense. If the older tires have more than 5/32" tread depth left, I wouldn't hesitate to put them on the rear and put the new tires at front just to even out the tire wear quicker among all 4 tires. If you believe Michelin's claim that "older" tires are unsafe at the rear due to harder to control for hydroplaning, then we should replace our tires whenever the tire is not new, as many vehicles on the road will have partially worn rear tires!

  6. #36
    Registered Member yrwei52's Avatar
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    Arrow Flat tire

    Quote Originally Posted by sm1ke View Post
    Its safer to do that than to drive with the spare up front, especially on the highway.
    No, I'd use my common sense, put on the mini spare at front for the flat by the road side of the highway on my 2016 CX-5, and drive slowly to a safe place then move the spare to the rear. Remember you're not supposed to drive over 50 mph with a mini spare anyway according to Mazda owner's manual.

    This reminds me that I should start another search to find a proper outer diameter spare for my AWD CX-5.

  7. #37
    Work in Progress sm1ke's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by yrwei52 View Post
    We can't be concentrating only one area for safety, and each driver reacts differently in dangerous driving condition. Michelin reversed their previous recommendation for the reason of resisting hydroplaning, but it ignored all other driving situation and the danger of changing tires on the road side. And I'm not sure understeer is easier to correct by every driver compared to oversteer either.

    All I said is to use our common sense. If the older tires have more than 5/32" tread depth left, I wouldn't hesitate to put them on the rear and put the new tires at front just to even out the tire wear quicker among all 4 tires. If you believe Michelin's claim that "older" tires are unsafe at the rear due to harder to control for hydroplaning, then we should replace our tires whenever the tire is not new, as many vehicles on the road will have partially worn rear tires!
    If you are understeering, you simply ease off of the throttle and apply light braking as required to regain control. If you are oversteering, you do the same thing, but you should not be braking, and you have to counter-steer to correct. When counter-steering, it is very easy to over-correct. Thus recovering from understeering is much, much easier than recovering from oversteering.

    Are you familiar with rotating your tires? That solves the second point you're trying to make. EDIT: I see now that you do rotate your tires regularly. I can buy into the point you're trying to make, in putting the brand new tires up front, but IMO this is only safe to do when the difference in tread depth between the new and old tires is minimal (I would only be comfortable with a spread of 2/32, otherwise I'd get the new tires shaved). Putting them up front so they wear faster to make them "even" with the rear makes sense, as long as the rear provides ample traction for the speeds/conditions you're traveling at/in.
    Last edited by sm1ke; 08-12-2019 at 03:09 PM.
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  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by yrwei52 View Post
    At only 13,029 miles, you may be better off to get one Toyo A36 tire and shave it to the same tread depth like the other three as usually stock Toyo tires should last 25K~35K miles. Discount Tire / America's Tire can do this for you. And Discount Tire / America's Tire will match the Tire Rack's price ($139.90) if their price is higher.
    Americaís Tire said they couldnít shave the tire to match the other three because they lacked the equipment to do it. Also the guy said they didnít recommend it. So, I just got it in all itís brand new glory.

  9. #39
    Structural Member shadonoz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sm1ke View Post
    That's great, but do you disagree with the reasoning RE: understeer vs. oversteer?
    Yes, I disagree with your premise. I'd rather have to correct oversteer [possible to do with the steering] than to correct understeer [not possible with steering, but only with application of rear wheel power which most cars can't do, or a reduction in speed].

    Hydroplaning is a complete lack of traction, no control. Understeer and oversteer imply partial traction, with ability to correct.

    And for a complete loss of traction, I'd rather lose it in the rear, so that I can continue to have steering input. Without steering, you're an unguided missile.

    You're right: thinking has changed. But that doesn't mean it is right, or has even improved.

  10. #40
    Work in Progress sm1ke's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shadonoz View Post
    Yes, I disagree with your premise. I'd rather have to correct oversteer [possible to do with the steering] than to correct understeer [not possible with steering, but only with application of rear wheel power which most cars can't do, or a reduction in speed].

    Hydroplaning is a complete lack of traction, no control. Understeer and oversteer imply partial traction, with ability to correct.

    And for a complete loss of traction, I'd rather lose it in the rear, so that I can continue to have steering input. Without steering, you're an unguided missile.

    You're right: thinking has changed. But that doesn't mean it is right, or has even improved.
    Correcting oversteer might be easier for you or me to understand and put into practice. But when it comes to the general population, most will over-correct and put themselves in danger. Correcting understeer is easier because in the event that a driver loses control of their vehicle, their immediate instinct is to slow down. If you hit the brakes while understeering, your front wheels have an opportunity to regain traction. Worst case scenario, you don't turn and end up going straight. If you hit the brakes while oversteering, you lose traction and it becomes even harder to correct. If it's easier for you, that's great, but it doesn't mean that the general population would react the same. I think that's why the thinking has changed, and it's why shops and manufacturers recommend what they do.
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  11. #41
    Structural Member shadonoz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sm1ke View Post
    Correcting oversteer might be easier for you or me to understand and put into practice. But when it comes to the general population, most will over-correct and put themselves in danger. Correcting understeer is easier because in the event that a driver loses control of their vehicle, their immediate instinct is to slow down. If you hit the brakes while understeering, your front wheels have an opportunity to regain traction. Worst case scenario, you don't turn and end up going straight. If you hit the brakes while oversteering, you lose traction and it becomes even harder to correct. If it's easier for you, that's great, but it doesn't mean that the general population would react the same. I think that's why the thinking has changed, and it's why shops and manufacturers recommend what they do.
    Fortunately for me, I only have to worry about myself. I only have to worry about the general population when they come into contact with me, hopefully not while driving.

    This is why general rules are often not applicable. We all have to think for ourselves.

  12. #42
    Work in Progress sm1ke's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shadonoz View Post
    Fortunately for me, I only have to worry about myself. I only have to worry about the general population when they come into contact with me, hopefully not while driving.

    This is why general rules are often not applicable. We all have to think for ourselves.
    I agree, which is why you do what you want to do, and why others do something different. What's right for you is likely wrong for the majority of casual drivers. Catering to the majority is why such a recommendation exists (newer tires on rear to prevent oversteer).
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  13. #43
    Structural Member shadonoz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sm1ke View Post
    I agree, which is why you do what you want to do, and why others do something different. What's right for you is likely wrong for the majority of casual drivers. Catering to the majority is why such a recommendation exists (newer tires on rear to prevent oversteer).
    However, it's bad advice for ALL drivers, regardless of skill.

    The primary purpose of the tires is to maintain traction. In order to maintain control, it is more important for the front tires to maintain traction because they steer.

    The intent is to PREVENT the loss of traction in the first place. Any talk of what to do once traction is broken is secondary and a distraction.

  14. #44
    Registered Member yrwei52's Avatar
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    Arrow Flat tire

    Quote Originally Posted by shadonoz View Post
    However, it's bad advice for ALL drivers, regardless of skill.

    The primary purpose of the tires is to maintain traction. In order to maintain control, it is more important for the front tires to maintain traction because they steer.

    The intent is to PREVENT the loss of traction in the first place. Any talk of what to do once traction is broken is secondary and a distraction.
    Well said!

  15. #45
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    Has anyone here suffered drive train damage from using tires of unequal height in emergency or other situation?

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