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Thread: Poor hot idle after a timing belt replacement

  1. #61
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    protege5

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    Before grinding any screws, I would use an impact driver. You can pick one up at harbor freight for about 10 bucks and they pretty much always work.

  2. #62
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by pb4ugotobed View Post
    Before grinding any screws, I would use an impact driver. You can pick one up at harbor freight for about 10 bucks and they pretty much always work.
    I don't think there's any room to get in there with an impact driver.
    The Diagram Dude

  3. #63
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    protege5

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    Quote Originally Posted by pcb View Post
    I don't think there's any room to get in there with an impact driver.
    If not, I like to keep a few pairs of needle-nose vise grips. Work great for stuff like that, if there's enough room for a dremel in there there's enough room for those!

  4. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by pb4ugotobed View Post
    If not, I like to keep a few pairs of needle-nose vise grips. Work great for stuff like that, if there's enough room for a dremel in there there's enough room for those!
    And get the brand name Vise-Grips by Irwin.
    All the others are crap. The jaws get sloppy and twist off the screw or nut, especially with the long nose version.
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  5. #65
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    Vise Grips, needle nosed did cross my mind, I have a pair, will give those a try. I can get an impact in there, but the issue is, even with the extension for the bit, it does not go in straight enough to get enough bite to that back screw. the left front I can get, the other 3, not so much. To add to the problem is no one makes an official JIS bit/screwdriver anymore, it's a combo JIS/Phillips bit, a compromise, but better than a straight phillips in a JIS screw and I bought some decent looking Dewalt bits, which worked fine on the other screws, including the 2 I've not cracked loose before and it bit in and got then cracked loose to remove with an impact, by a quick blip of the trigger to just crack them loose and I believe I went the rest of the way with the screwdriver, but that was with the throttle body on the sidewalk though, not mounted to the engine.

    I have to remove the throttle body again anyway to replace that gasket and it's best to just remove the IAC at that point anyway.

    At this point, if I can get the IAC locally, or clean out the current valve (I know it's often a short term proposition) and see if the car runs better, once the new throttle body gasket is in place, then assess if the coils and order those online as they can be wicked cheap from Amazon and just wait for those to appear as they are an easy swap out, unlike the IAC or the EGR valve for that matter.

    Nothing's changed, car runs like shit but I can now get it to stay idling while at a light, as long as I pop the transmission into neutral, otherwise once at temp, more or less, it'll just die right off while in gear (automatic) and the MIL is flashing still, or was as of yesterday coming home from work.

    Just so you all know, not driving the car far, I'm usually less than 10 minutes from work and with the occasional stop at the store (yesterday to the credit union to deal with my debit card, then to the store) but all driving is close by.
    Last edited by ciddyguy; 08-28-2019 at 01:26 PM.

  6. #66
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    This is what I meant by impact driver.
    https://www.lowes.com/pd/craftsman-3...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

    These are the best for removing philips screws, especially ones under the hood that have high likelihood of seizing or stripping.

  7. #67
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by ciddyguy View Post
    ... To add to the problem is no one makes an official JIS bit/screwdriver anymore, it's a combo JIS/Phillips bit, a compromise, but better than a straight phillips in a JIS screw...
    They're still available.




    I bought these. They came right from Japan.
    I can't read the directions. lol



    I cut one in half to use in my stubby...






    But for you at this point, it's probably too late.
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  8. #68
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by ciddyguy View Post
    ... the left front I can get, the other 3, not so much. To add to the...
    If everything goes to crap while trying to remove that last screw, you might be able to just remove the head of the screw then install the new or cleaned IAC with just the three remaining screws.
    Maybe some RTV silicone on the gasket to help it seal.

    PS. I remember one guy that bought a cheap IAC and it didn't work. He noticed the little "jet" or "hole" was a different diameter than the original.
    He had to buy an OEM part.

    Don't buy cheap coils.
    Go with OEM or Hitachi.
    (cheap coils will haunt your car. lol)
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  9. #69
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by pb4ugotobed View Post
    This is what I meant by impact driver.
    https://www.lowes.com/pd/craftsman-3...E&gclsrc=aw.ds
    Awww.

    I got denied?!!??

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  10. #70
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    protege5

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    Quote Originally Posted by pcb View Post
    Awww.

    I got denied?!!??

    Guess so. Maybe canadians aren't allowed on the Lowe's website lol

    https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2905-8...85539586&psc=1

  11. #71
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    that's the problem is NO ONE makes an official JIS driver or bit, not even Vessel does anymore even though some advertise it as a JIS bit/driver, it's really a JIS/Phillips bit/driver.

    I'll look into the impact driver shown at Lowes, at $19.99 US, it's a good price and may have something a bit better than the old standard Phillips bit but who knows though.

  12. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by ciddyguy View Post

    I'll look into the impact driver shown at Lowes, at $19.99 US, it's a good price and may have something a bit better than the old standard Phillips bit but who knows though.
    With the impact driver, philips/JIS does not matter. You can take a completely stripped and rounded out screw out with one of those because when you beat it with a hammer, it forces its bit into the screw head. So even if there is no "philips" left, it will makes its own while it spins to break it loose. Then you simply unsrew it the rest of the way by hand.

    Not one of those tools you use all the time, but it's definitely one of those that when you DO need it, it's worth its weight in gold. I couldn't ever imagine myself NOT having one!

    And if you get a set of twist sockets, it's the perfect combo for rusted and rounded off nuts and bolt heads too.

  13. #73
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    Huh. JIS. I never knew. Explains a few things.

    This page has a great write up on it:
    http://rtstools.com/jis-vs-phillips-...s-screwdriver/

    Just DO NOT Click through on the other pages. I clicked through on the tool recommendations and somehow I now have $500 in tools in my Amazon shopping cart that I "need".
    Last edited by negusm; 08-29-2019 at 09:57 AM.

  14. #74
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by negusm View Post
    Huh. JIS. I never knew. Explains a few things.

    This page has a great write up on it:
    http://rtstools.com/jis-vs-phillips-...s-screwdriver/
    Huh, I guess my bits are the compromised version then.

    I wonder if the Japanese changed their screw heads then so that the new bits fit perfect, and if not why can't you buy the proper screwdriver ?
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  15. #75
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    As for the JIS standard, wish I knew if Japan has modified their screws now because of this.

    My theory is since it was ONLY adopted in Japan, but nowhere else, it's been quietly dropped by the Japanese over time.

    Anyway, as long as it's dry and NOT raining (it was raining late yesterday and into the evening at least), I'll be under da hood on my flivermobile, trying to get it to run at least halfway decently today. :-)

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