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Thread: Poor hot idle after a timing belt replacement

  1. #16
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    It's probably just relearning how to idle your car.

    My car stumbles and nearly stalls after I disconnect the battery.

    If your car starts flashing your cel again, cleaning or replacing you EGR would probably be a good idea.

    If your timing marks are off by a mm or so, you're fine. Just not a whole tooth.

    Your MAF codes still need to be addressed though.
    The Diagram Dude

  2. #17
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Here's a link to the FSM for our car.

    http://www.floptical.net/mazda/
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  3. #18
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    I never did disconnect the battery, but accidentally did leave the ignition in the "on" position while working on the belt and it did spank the battery enough to where it was 11-12 Volts though so a jump start got it going again. Yes, it did upset the settings on my head unit (not factory, was long gone by the time I bought the car).

    I've had to replace the battery in the past and never recalled it running this bad before so who knows.

    I need to do errands this morning locally so we'll see how it fares. I did do a quick run on the freeway about a week ago and it did fine dong at least 60mph. I'm hoping the codes update today so I can see if there is indeed an issue with the coils or not, but will investigate the MAF more.

    Can't seem to get the EVAP to pass, the code reader just initializes the test and it says failed, not specifics mentioned but one of the biggest things (and the cheapest is a fresh gas cap) so I may try that, just in case it is not to spec while out.

  4. #19
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Cool

    Quote Originally Posted by ciddyguy View Post

    Can't seem to get the EVAP to pass, the code reader just initializes the test and it says failed, not specifics mentioned but one of the biggest things (and the cheapest is a fresh gas cap) so I may try that, just in case it is not to spec while out.
    I don't think you can fail your EVAP without some code associated with it.

    Perhaps the monitor wasn't ready so it just said fail.



    Make sure you're going the right speed with the right RPM and proper amount of gas, or you'll never finish the test.
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  5. #20
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    If you only rubbed the codes, all your Intermittent Monitors should have remained finished.

    Disconnecting power resets the ECU and all monitors start over.

    Or maybe your Code reader reset the ECU??
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  6. #21
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Does your code reader give you the actual code number or just an explanation?

    There are three codes our car has for the MAF.

    A broken wire. A shorted wire. Or wonky numbers.

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  7. #22
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Oh, and unfortunately, driving around with your CEL flashing can fry your pre-cat.

    An engine misfire is the only code that flashes the CEL, then the ECU goes into limp mode and tries to stop the misfiring.
    Once the ECU stops the misfiring, the cel goes solid.

    Keep your eyes open for a P0421code for a burnt pre-cat.

    Raw gas on the pre-cat burns it out but you can get a misfire due to no or little fuel which is safer for your pre-cat.
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  8. #23
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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  9. #24
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Do you know about spraying carb cleaner to find a vacuum leak ?
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  10. #25
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    I've heard of that, yes, also water too or water and soap. Tried the water in a spray bottle and so far have not found any leaks when I last did it a week or so ago.

  11. #26
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    As to the flashing CEL, it only did it for a bit then went back to solid red by the next day and has stayed that way since.

  12. #27
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    I remember disconnecting my battery then drove through town with multiple stops and idles and my car was fine, then I got on the highway for 1/2 hr, got into the next city and it idled like shit and nearly stalled a few times.

    The ECU needs to learn how to idle the car at different temperatures and conditions, that's why it takes so long.

    But if your battery wasn't disconnected then that shouldn't be happening.

    Thinking about it (and speculating), If the ECU thinks there is less air going into the engine then it would probably give less fuel which could cause a misfire.

    You may have a bad MAF or a broken/shorted wire.
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  13. #28
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by ciddyguy View Post
    I've heard of that, yes, also water too or water and soap. Tried the water in a spray bottle and so far have not found any leaks when I last did it a week or so ago.
    Carb cleaner works great.
    You just spray it around your engine and all vacuum lines and such, then when the RPMs increase, you've found the leak.

    It's way easier to find a small or hidden leak.
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  14. #29
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  15. #30
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by ciddyguy View Post

    P0102, MAF low
    P0103 MAF voltage circuit too high
    P0230 Camshaft sensor (mine has scratches on the surface, bad?)
    P0300 (obviously as it's the general random misfire)
    P0304 Cylinder 4 misfire
    P0401 EGR flow insufficient
    Just noticed this.
    If your MAF is giving both high and low voltage, without a bad data code then I would suspect a faulty MAF.

    I would suspect that if you had an intermittent vacuum leak big enough to throw both codes you would hear it.

    If it were me, I'd trust the codes and get a new MAF. (maybe after a carb cleaner vacuum test)

    They're about $55 US.

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