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Thread: Remove rear motor mount with IM still on

  1. #1
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    2003 Protege DX 5MT

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    Remove rear motor mount with IM still on

    I was removing my rear transmission mount (driver side rear mount under intake manifold) - attempting to do it with the intake manifold still on the engine - I took out my battery, tube from throttle body to MAF, and the throttle body, and it gave me some nice working room to remove the two 10mm nuts that hold the plastic wire bracket, and break the three nuts lose that connect the mount to the frame. I used about 18" of 3/8 extensions and a breaker bar with universal joints on 3 nuts to the frame. I had the engine jacked with a 2x4 wood cushion as well. I have replaced all 3 other motor mounts on this car as well.

    I began trying to loosen the long bolt that goes through the bushing with ONE 17mm socket and it didnt seem to loosen - but it turned. It looks like it would be a PITA to get a socket on the other side of the boIt.

    My question is - do I need 2 sockets on either side of the long bolt that goes through the bushing? Does anyone have any advice for taking this motor mount off with the intake manifold still on?


    Is it possible?





    Thanks in advance-

  2. #2
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

    2002 mazda protege 5

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    Quote Originally Posted by 02barurs View Post
    My question is - do I need 2 sockets on either side of the long bolt that goes through the bushing?
    Yes.



    Quote Originally Posted by 02barurs View Post
    Is it possible?
    Yes.






    Quote Originally Posted by 02barurs View Post
    ... It looks like it would be a PITA to get a socket on the other side of the boIt.
    That is correct.
    It was a PITA.


    I crawled under my parts car to get an idea of what you're dealing with.

    I fit a 1/2" drive 6 point socket on the bolt head and it stayed there snuggly.

    There's a brake line in the way so I had to use a 2" extention on the ratchet and managed to connect up with it.

    I didn't actually try to turn the bolt so I don't know where the handle would hit when you reef the nut on the other end.

    You may have to hold both ratchet handles to protect things but one of them might spin and hit the frame.

    I do have my upper and lower oil pan removed from my parts car but I don't think that makes any difference.
    The Diagram Dude

  3. #3
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    Thank you very much for your time. I read something where the person took off the passenger wheel and used a ton of extensions from the wheel well. Looking at it, I think I may have made enough room to fit a socket and wrench through the top and brace it against the engine or firewall on the passenger side of the bolt. Thanks again!!

  4. #4
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

    2002 mazda protege 5

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    You're welcome.

    I enjoy doing this.

    You need an extention anyway to clear that brake line.

    PS... I think you'd need to remove the drivers side wheel ??
    Unless you live in England ??

    The nut is easily accessible.
    Last edited by pcb; 08-04-2019 at 01:03 PM.
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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by pcb View Post
    You're welcome.

    I enjoy doing this.

    You need an extention anyway to clear that brake line.

    PS... I think you'd need to remove the drivers side wheel ??
    Unless you live in England ??

    The nut is easily accessible.
    Here:

    https://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...-Mount-Install


    This was the best thread/tutorial I found where he says to take off the passenger wheel. I will have to see when I have time to work on it next weekend.

    Here is how I got to the motor mount and wiring harness bracket by removing the battery, intake tube, and taking TB off. My TB gasket was fossilized and just fell apart and it was very hard to find one at a local parts store. I had to drive 25 miles for one so I bought two gaskets just in case.
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    Last edited by 02barurs; 08-04-2019 at 04:14 PM.

  6. #6
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

    2002 mazda protege 5

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    OK.
    Now I get it.


    " 1. Get out your 1/2" socket extensions. You want to attack this nut from the front passenger wheel opening (after removing the wheel). With about 30" of extensions or so, you should have a straight shot at the nut and have room to use a big breaker bar and possibly the jack handle as a breaker bar extension. This nut is very tight. To keep the bolt from turning, use a 3/8" socket with a shallow 6-point 17mm socket on the bolt head (drivers) side."



    It would be hard to apply sufficient torque from under the vehicle.

    PS... Remind me to never replace my rear mount.
    My original mount is going to the graveyard along with my rusty turd of a car.
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