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Thread: Remove rear motor mount with IM still on

  1. #1
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    Remove rear motor mount with IM still on

    I was removing my rear transmission mount (driver side rear mount under intake manifold) - attempting to do it with the intake manifold still on the engine - I took out my battery, tube from throttle body to MAF, and the throttle body, and it gave me some nice working room to remove the two 10mm nuts that hold the plastic wire bracket, and break the three nuts lose that connect the mount to the frame. I used about 18" of 3/8 extensions and a breaker bar with universal joints on 3 nuts to the frame. I had the engine jacked with a 2x4 wood cushion as well. I have replaced all 3 other motor mounts on this car as well.

    I began trying to loosen the long bolt that goes through the bushing with ONE 17mm socket and it didnt seem to loosen - but it turned. It looks like it would be a PITA to get a socket on the other side of the boIt.

    My question is - do I need 2 sockets on either side of the long bolt that goes through the bushing? Does anyone have any advice for taking this motor mount off with the intake manifold still on?


    Is it possible?





    Thanks in advance-

  2. #2
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by 02barurs View Post
    My question is - do I need 2 sockets on either side of the long bolt that goes through the bushing?
    Yes.



    Quote Originally Posted by 02barurs View Post
    Is it possible?
    Yes.






    Quote Originally Posted by 02barurs View Post
    ... It looks like it would be a PITA to get a socket on the other side of the boIt.
    That is correct.
    It was a PITA.


    I crawled under my parts car to get an idea of what you're dealing with.

    I fit a 1/2" drive 6 point socket on the bolt head and it stayed there snuggly.

    There's a brake line in the way so I had to use a 2" extention on the ratchet and managed to connect up with it.

    I didn't actually try to turn the bolt so I don't know where the handle would hit when you reef the nut on the other end.

    You may have to hold both ratchet handles to protect things but one of them might spin and hit the frame.

    I do have my upper and lower oil pan removed from my parts car but I don't think that makes any difference.
    The Diagram Dude

  3. #3
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    Thank you very much for your time. I read something where the person took off the passenger wheel and used a ton of extensions from the wheel well. Looking at it, I think I may have made enough room to fit a socket and wrench through the top and brace it against the engine or firewall on the passenger side of the bolt. Thanks again!!

  4. #4
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    You're welcome.

    I enjoy doing this.

    You need an extention anyway to clear that brake line.

    PS... I think you'd need to remove the drivers side wheel ??
    Unless you live in England ??

    The nut is easily accessible.
    Last edited by pcb; 08-04-2019 at 01:03 PM.
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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by pcb View Post
    You're welcome.

    I enjoy doing this.

    You need an extention anyway to clear that brake line.

    PS... I think you'd need to remove the drivers side wheel ??
    Unless you live in England ??

    The nut is easily accessible.
    Here:

    https://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...-Mount-Install


    This was the best thread/tutorial I found where he says to take off the passenger wheel. I will have to see when I have time to work on it next weekend.

    Here is how I got to the motor mount and wiring harness bracket by removing the battery, intake tube, and taking TB off. My TB gasket was fossilized and just fell apart and it was very hard to find one at a local parts store. I had to drive 25 miles for one so I bought two gaskets just in case.
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    Last edited by 02barurs; 08-04-2019 at 04:14 PM.

  6. #6
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    OK.
    Now I get it.


    " 1. Get out your 1/2" socket extensions. You want to attack this nut from the front passenger wheel opening (after removing the wheel). With about 30" of extensions or so, you should have a straight shot at the nut and have room to use a big breaker bar and possibly the jack handle as a breaker bar extension. This nut is very tight. To keep the bolt from turning, use a 3/8" socket with a shallow 6-point 17mm socket on the bolt head (drivers) side."



    It would be hard to apply sufficient torque from under the vehicle.

    PS... Remind me to never replace my rear mount.
    My original mount is going to the graveyard along with my rusty turd of a car.
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  7. #7
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    Update:

    I was able to get the horizontal bolt off by putting a 3/8 12 point 17mm socket on the nut under the intake manifold first, then attaching about 24" of 3/8 extensions, and resting a a 3/8 drive socket wrench on the metal part of the alternator.

    I supported the wrench with AC and power steering lines (cradled with a rag) and cranking the bolt from the driver's side with the throttle body off. It was on tight but not as tight as the bolts that secure the mount to the frame. Thanks for all your help, and yes this is possible to do without removing the intake manifold.

    My car is still shuddering when I let the clutch out from a standstill with all 4 motor mounts replaced (3 of them were busted), and I am beginning to believe it is clutch chatter .
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    Last edited by 02barurs; 09-02-2019 at 09:16 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 02barurs View Post
    Update:

    I was able to get the horizontal bolt off by putting a 3/8 12 point 17mm socket on the nut under the intake manifold first, then attaching about 24" of 3/8 extensions, and resting a a 3/8 drive socket wrench on the metal part of the alternator.

    I supported the wrench with AC and power steering lines (cradled with a rag) and cranking the bolt from the driver's side with the throttle body off. It was on tight but not as tight as the bolts that secure the mount to the frame. Thanks for all your help, and yes this is possible to do without removing the intake manifold.

    My car is still shuddering when I let the clutch out from a standstill with all 4 motor mounts replaced (3 of them were busted), and I am beginning to believe it is clutch chatter .
    yeah i had bad clutch chatter until i did my engine swap. my mechanic verified hot spots formed on the flywheel but i bought the car that way. the chatter gets worse the longer you drive right? and then the next morning it's barely there. on some longer trips that had a lot of stop and go i ended up starting out in 2nd to skip the chatter.
    03 MSP, 03 P5

  9. #9
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    I remember replacing my clutch on a car I had years ago and the clutch manufacturer wouldn't warranty the clutch unless the flywheel was resurfaced.
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  10. #10
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Try bleeding your clutch.
    It's free and easy and may help.
    It made a big difference on my car.
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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by 323 View Post
    yeah i had bad clutch chatter until i did my engine swap. my mechanic verified hot spots formed on the flywheel but i bought the car that way. the chatter gets worse the longer you drive right? and then the next morning it's barely there. on some longer trips that had a lot of stop and go i ended up starting out in 2nd to skip the chatter.
    Yes. When I drive it gets worse, if the car has been sitting overnight and I am driving for the first time of the day, I sometimes get just a single chatter "bump" (if that makes sense) when i let the clutch out going slightly uphill. After I do 20 + miles or stop and go rush hour it gets a lot worse.

    If there are hotspots on the flywheel, is it recommended to replace or resurface the flywheel? Or will I have to see if the flywheel is warped or beyond resurface-abilty?

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by pcb View Post
    Try bleeding your clutch.
    It's free and easy and may help.
    It made a big difference on my car.
    I have already done this twice.

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