Engine Oil Change Questions - Non-Turbo & Turbo

Hello,

I am sure there have been many discussions within threads but could not find a dedicated thread for Engine Oil change questions.

If we could answer some typical questions owners have about this, it will be really helpful to everyone.

Engine Type - Non-Turbo (US) or Turbo (US)

Region- Cold/Mixed/Hot

Change Intervals (miles) - 5K / 7.5K

Oil type - Conventional / Synthetic

Other Information - Anything that is useful to know

Thanks.
 
0W-20 non-turbos (try 5W-30 if you're burning/consuming oil). Doesn't come in conventional.
5W-30 turbos. Use synthetic.

Follow severe interval per owner's manual if your service is severe. Follow normal otherwise :D
 
For 2017+ models (mine is 2018 GT), what size hex bit do I use to open up the drain plug? I found that the older CX5s use an 8mm hex bit but I can't find this same information in the service manuals for the 2017+ models posted elsewhere in the forums. I don't see a PDF for oil changes at all for these years. Do the new models also use 8mm or is it different? Would appreciate a response before I get started on this upcoming task and find out I don't have an appropriate size. Also is 30-41 Nm {3.1-4.1 kgfm, 23-30 ftlbf} still the correct torque for the drain plug? I think I got these numbers from the older model years as well and just want to confirm they haven't changed.

As a note for others perusing this thread, I'm going to stick with OEM Mazda 0w20 w/ Moly additive oil and OEM mazda oil filter. Reason being is that I've been convinced that these Skyactiv engines are truly unique and require these additives. Mazda knows these cars best so I'll follow their recommendation here. This is especially true now that we're finding out the oil and oil pressure is used by the PCM to pivot the rocker arms for cylinder deactivation (from the recent recall). I don't know how other engine oils affect this. Either way, you can get the entire kit from mazdapartsmedcenter on ebay which will include the 5 quarts of oil, oil filter, and crush washer. I've purchased other things from these guys and they are great!
 
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For 2017+ models (mine is 2018 GT), what size hex bit do I use to open up the drain plug? I found that the older CX5s use an 8mm hex bit but I can't find this same information in the service manuals for the 2017+ models posted elsewhere in the forums. I don't see a PDF for oil changes at all for these years. Do the new models also use 8mm or is it different? Would appreciate a response before I get started on this upcoming task and find out I don't have an appropriate size. Also is 30-41 Nm {3.1-4.1 kgfm, 23-30 ftlbf} still the correct torque for the drain plug? I think I got these numbers from the older model years as well and just want to confirm they haven't changed.

As a note for others perusing this thread, I'm going to stick with OEM Mazda 0w20 w/ Moly additive oil and OEM mazda oil filter. Reason being is that I've been convinced that these Skyactiv engines are truly unique and require these additives. Mazda knows these cars best so I'll follow their recommendation here. This is especially true now that we're finding out the oil and oil pressure is used by the PCM to pivot the rocker arms for cylinder deactivation (from the recent recall). I don't know how other engine oils affect this. Either way, you can get the entire kit from mazdapartsmedcenter on ebay which will include the 5 quarts of oil, oil filter, and crush washer. I've purchased other things from these guys and they are great!
Mazda changed drain plug to traditional 17mm flange hex bolt type when they modified the SA-G 2.5L with cylinder deactivation in 2018 CX-5 MY. Your gen-2 2018 CX-5 SA-G 2.5L will have 17mm flange hex bolt type drain plug instead of original 8mm Allen hex type drain plug.

23-30 ftlbf is still the right torque for both types of SA-G 2.5L drain plug.

Although Ive been using Mazda moly 0W-20 since my CX-5 is new, but I believe keeping Mazda moly on your 2.5L for the reason of preventing cylinder deactivation problem may be a bit overblown. Id think oil viscosity would play bigger role affecting the oil pressure, but Mazda recommends all kind of viscosities outside of the USA.


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srource:
http://idn.tweddle.com/media/mazda/81a9d_CX-5_8DV5-EE-14L-R_Edition1_web_OM_LR.pdf

I also use only OEM oil filter but avoiding OEM MV filter from Value Products. Make sure your oil change kit comes with 1WPE-14-302 Denso Thai filter, or might as well get a box of OEM Mexican PE01-14-302A-MV oil filter from eBay for $2.92 each.

And it seems getting Toyota's OEM p/n 90118-WBA40 oil filter for Yaris iA (rebadged Mazda2) which actually is Mazdas 1WPE-14-302 Denso Thai filter, is usually cheaper, like 2 for $11 on eBay.
 
Thanks yrwei52 for the clear answer. I should be ready to go then!

I'm not using the OEM oil just because of the cylinder deactivation scare. I believe the recall with the PCM update should have fixed this issue. There are multiple reasons and the CD issue is notable because it seems the oil is used for other reasons in addition to the conventional uses like cleaning/lubricating the engine. You might be right that the additives probably contribute least to the oil pressure but who knows what else heavily depends on this specific oil. It could still be overblown but I'm not going to personally take that risk on my new $30k car haha; atleast not yet while its under warranty.
 
Idemitsu Zepro 0w20 moly is supposed to be the same oil as Mazda Moly, and its cheaper in a 5 qt jugs on amazon...or at least it was when I bought it for the last change a few weeks ago. Next change is going to be Castrol edge 0w20 bc its what I got. Other OTC oils that are said to be higher in moly are QSUD and Rotella Gas Truck.

For either of these newer DI engines, anything thats Dexos 1 Gen2 approves should be just fine in the appropriate grade. Personally would not (and have not) exceed 5k mile intervals.

And if you want the best, ester-based oil out there with lots of moly, nothing like Redline imo. Once warranty is up will likely use whatever cheap 0w20 d1g2 synthetic is available and spike it with a quart of Redline.
 
Next change is going to be Castrol edge 0w20 bc it*s what I got.

I've had excellent UOAs with Castrol Edge.

For either of these newer DI engines, anything that*s Dexos 1 Gen2 approves should be just fine in the appropriate grade. Personally would not (and have not) exceed 5k mile intervals.

Can't speak for the turbo, but the NA can handle longer intervals no problem. See the stickied Oil Analysis thread. Once you get higher OCIs, only thing you really gotta watch for is oil consumption in-case you need to top off. Since I use just a 5 qt jug in my oil changes, once I got above 6k miles, I had to add a quart. I am now trying 5w30 instead of 0w20 and some have reported less consumption. We'll see. Only 2.5k miles in on current oil change, so jury still out.

Of course, some driving types are more harsh on the oil than others. If I was constant stop/go city driving and/or short trips, I'd stick to the shorter 5k interval. If you mostly do highway, less severe driving, you should be fine on a longer interval.
 
I was to go with 7500 intervals until I found out the cylinder deactivation was oil-pressure based. Given the possibility of fuel dilution with DI, which could then affect oil pressure if thinned out, decided to shorten intervals to 5k. Figure its cheap insurance

Glad to hear youre liking the edge. I got two jugs of the black bottle 0w20 for something like $15/jug on prime day. We drive this thing 3-4K miles per month so oil changes are every 5-6 weeks
 
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