2013~2016 2014 CX-5 Touring (2.5L) has hiccup and no longer smooth in slow traffic

agaurav

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2014 Mazda CX-5 Fwd Touring
My 2014 CX-5 has 70K miles. I have only ever changed oil and air, cabin filters along with tires and wipers. No other work done (good job Mazda)!

However, now the car doesn't feel smooth. It seems to jerk and lunge forward in stop-n-go traffic especially even after engine is warm. I press the gas pedal and many times it seems to think for a moment and then go or even when I am slowing down or braking, the engine doesn't seem to run smooth.

I am in busy San Francisco Bay Area and was in Dallas Texas earlier. I am guessing it is time for new spark plugs but don't know for sure. What else could I/should I get done? I would like to use a local mechanic and not go to the dealer as my financial position is just OK these days. I should note that the gas mileage has come down by 1-3 mpg over the last 1-3 years now. I used to get more than 30 mpg but now get about 27-29 only. Also, there are no codes via an OBDII scantool that I plugged in.

Thanks for your suggestions. Also, how much would it be to get fuel injection cleanup done and then new spark plugs installed? I don't think I can do this work myself, correct (I haven't ever worked on cars before but willing to learn if not super tough for a newbie).
 
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You did not mention the engine filter (not to be confused with cabin filter). Was that ever changed?
 
You did not mention the engine filter (not to be confused with cabin filter). Was that ever changed?

Thanks. Actually that is what I meant by "air filter" when I wrote "air, cabin filters", The air was the engine air filter. I did get a brand-new OEM from Mazda dealer and installed it myself.
 
Coil or plug, or vacuum leak, or PCV system are where I'd start, in that order

Thanks a bunch. Is that something that I can debug or do I go to a mechanic and ask them to check these? How do I know about vacuum leak etc.? Thanks.
 
Thanks a bunch. Is that something that I can debug or do I go to a mechanic and ask them to check these? How do I know about vacuum leak etc.? Thanks.

I think vac leak is pretty low on the list. Dealer should be able to run diagnostic on coil pack.
 
Spark plugs are due at ~ 75,000 miles so that is the first thing I'd do if you have no CELs. Ed
 
Opposite experience from Unobtanium. Replacing my spark plugs at 6 1/2 years of age and 60k smoothed a slightly rough idle for me. Plug tips looked fine but I don*t know if their resistance/electrical properties had degraded.

Do you use better gas (I.e top tier shell, bp, etc)? I wonder if the injectors are fouling up.
 
Opposite experience from Unobtanium. Replacing my spark plugs at 6 1/2 years of age and 60k smoothed a slightly rough idle for me. Plug tips looked fine but I don*t know if their resistance/electrical properties had degraded.

Do you use better gas (I.e top tier shell, bp, etc)? I wonder if the injectors are fouling up.

Injectors are at several thousand PSI. Not likely, no? Or is that a thing?
 
I do try to use top tier Shell most of the time but at least 20% of the times it will be some generic pump due to long distance travel or something which happened to be near when I needed gas.

Is there a fuel injector cleaner service that I should ask the mechanic or just throttle body cleanup alongside MAF clean?

Opposite experience from Unobtanium. Replacing my spark plugs at 6 1/2 years of age and 60k smoothed a slightly rough idle for me. Plug tips looked fine but I don*t know if their resistance/electrical properties had degraded.

Do you use better gas (I.e top tier shell, bp, etc)? I wonder if the injectors are fouling up.
 
I have used TECKRON COMPLETE SYSTEM CLEANER in my 2014 CX5 before each oil change. In addition a careful MAF cleaning would be in order. This together with a spark plug change. Ed
 
I would inspect the spark plugs. If the gap is out of spec or they are dirty, you can try regapping them or cleaning them. If that doesn't help, in my opinion take it to the dealer or good mechanic so you don't keep guessing at what parts to change. If you take it to a dealer don't have them do any extra work unrelated to your issue, those extra things are what you can do as a DIY person or bring the car back at a later date.
 
Thanks all. I am humbled with just a supportive and welcoming community. The tranny doesn't feel off. Feels more like engine - like a bit sticky gas pedal.

I am handy around the house and have worked on minor electronics and computer repair but nothing big. Never worked on cars before other than changing engine air filter, cabin air filter, battery change and an occasional tire change. Would you folks advise me to try doing the throttle body and MAF sensor cleanup myself? Or just take to a mechanic and ask for these items?

Thanks.
 
Thanks all. I am humbled with just a supportive and welcoming community. The tranny doesn't feel off. Feels more like engine - like a bit sticky gas pedal.

I am handy around the house and have worked on minor electronics and computer repair but nothing big. Never worked on cars before other than changing engine air filter, cabin air filter, battery change and an occasional tire change. Would you folks advise me to try doing the throttle body and MAF sensor cleanup myself? Or just take to a mechanic and ask for these items?

Thanks.

Okie doke. Just figured I'd ask.

I agree with others. Check the plugs and coils and then go from there.
 
Injectors are at several thousand PSI. Not likely, no? Or is that a thing?

No idea. When I mentioned I didn*t always use top tier gas in another thread Yrwei panicked and mentioned do Top Tier at all costs/ injectors can get build up, etc lol

Cleaning throttle body requires tools to remove and clean properly. Somebody here shared a really good YouTube video on how to do that. I*ve never cleaned one or a MAF sensor though. I*d give it a shot as I have a garage and the right tools, but I*d take it to a dealership without the experience or materials needed.
 
Do a GOOGLE search on how the clean a MAF sensor. Not difficult but, there are things you shouldn't do. Ed
 
Thanks. Actually that is what I meant by "air filter" when I wrote "air, cabin filters", The air was the engine air filter. I did get a brand-new OEM from Mazda dealer and installed it myself.

Hmmm....recheck that you sealed that air box tight.
 
Easy solution: find a local shop (other than Mazda dealers) which specialises on Mazdas - make sure they are legit - describe them all your issues clearly and pay the bill.

Hard solution (in that particular order):
1)air filters
2)transmission liquid level check (you'll be sticking you hands in the air box - might just as well remove it to reach the AT's dipstick)
3)spark plugs
4)injectors cleaning (no mumbo-jumbo, these must be taken out and soaked in appropriate solution for a solid half-a-day)
5)full-blown intake cleaning with walnut blasting and everything involved
6)fuel filter replacement (do you have a tendency to run you tank dry before re-fueling?)
7)if none of the above helped - you've got issues!
 

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