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Thread: Can a good deal be had now vs the end of the month

  1. #1
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    Can a good deal be had now vs the end of the month

    I'm shopping for a CX-5 Grand Touring AWS with the GT Premium package. The MSRP is $34,115 and the invoice is $32,713. So far I received 4 quotes, 3 around invoice and one at $32,000. None of these seem exceptional based on Truecar and KBB. So, before I continue calling any more dealers, am I wasting my time trying to buy a car now (July 9) vs the end of the month?

    I also mentioned Truecar and KBB pricing to a couple of the dealers and was told it's all bulls**t and that rebates are factored into the price when KBB clearly states that it's not the case, and Truecar says it only factors in incentives that apply to everyone which in this case means none (I think). One dealer even told me that lease pricing doesn't apply to those numbers.

  2. #2
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    try for around 8-10% off msrp then add any rebates to discount further.
    End of periods may be better if the dealers wants to move cars off the lot.
    Bear in mind cx5 sells rasily so you need dealer who is willing to discount.
    Look for more offfers, expand radius if needed.

  3. #3
    Registered Member ceric's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by berttino2 View Post
    I'm shopping for a CX-5 Grand Touring AWS with the GT Premium package. The MSRP is $34,115 and the invoice is $32,713. So far I received 4 quotes, 3 around invoice and one at $32,000. None of these seem exceptional based on Truecar and KBB. So, before I continue calling any more dealers, am I wasting my time trying to buy a car now (July 9) vs the end of the month?

    I also mentioned Truecar and KBB pricing to a couple of the dealers and was told it's all bulls**t and that rebates are factored into the price when KBB clearly states that it's not the case, and Truecar says it only factors in incentives that apply to everyone which in this case means none (I think). One dealer even told me that lease pricing doesn't apply to those numbers.
    If I were you, this is my reference price for cash purchase.
    I am not familiar with lease deals.
    Invoice $32,713 - $1000 (cash back now) = $31,713.
    If you or anyone in your family owns an Mazda => $30,963 ($750 off)
    If your Mazda deal can hit certain sale volume, they can get 1-3% back from Mazda.
    Throw in a few hundreds for people to make a living... be nice.
    I would aim at $30,500 to $31,000 + destination + TTL
    If you qualify for employee pricing (***), you can get extra $$$ off (up to $1000).
    At the end of month, some dealers push hard to hit the sale volume.
    If they are close to the next bucket, they can be very willing to cut price.
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    Either check more dealers for better offers or wait for last months of Q4 when the 2020 model would be out. Then you can get bargain for 2019 leftovers with much bigger discounts on the msrp.
    My advice is not to hurry if you want a good deal. Patience and persistence is the key + checking as many dealers as you have around.
    Remember rebates go always after the main discount.
    Many dealers put the rebate in the discount and do not actually give you much discount.
    The rebate is profit for the dealer. Its like you are giving them the 'cash' just its not your money.

    p.s. and invoice price is a marketing gimmick more or less.
    Dealers real cost for a car at the end comes to actually below invoice when they get back their own incentives and hold fees.

  5. #5
    Registered Member erhayes's Avatar
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    Patience will win the low price in the end. Sit back and wait. ED

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    Quote Originally Posted by ceric View Post
    If I were you, this is my reference price for cash purchase.
    I am not familiar with lease deals.
    Invoice $32,713 - $1000 (cash back now) = $31,713.
    If you or anyone in your family owns an Mazda => $30,963 ($750 off)
    If your Mazda deal can hit certain sale volume, they can get 1-3% back from Mazda.
    Throw in a few hundreds for people to make a living... be nice.
    I would aim at $30,500 to $31,000 + destination + TTL
    If you qualify for employee pricing (***), you can get extra $$$ off (up to $1000).
    At the end of month, some dealers push hard to hit the sale volume.
    If they are close to the next bucket, they can be very willing to cut price.
    He's beating you price already, again...

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by cz5gt View Post
    Either check more dealers for better offers or wait for last months of Q4 when the 2020 model would be out. Then you can get bargain for 2019 leftovers with much bigger discounts on the msrp.
    My advice is not to hurry if you want a good deal. Patience and persistence is the key + checking as many dealers as you have around.
    Remember rebates go always after the main discount.
    Many dealers put the rebate in the discount and do not actually give you much discount.
    The rebate is profit for the dealer. Its like you are giving them the 'cash' just its not your money.

    p.s. and invoice price is a marketing gimmick more or less.
    Dealers real cost for a car at the end comes to actually below invoice when they get back their own incentives and hold fees.
    Correct. Stay away from Invoice pricing and TrueCar. Both are huge money makers for the dealers...

    Stay persistent, know what you are willing to pay and consider a good deal, stick to it, and score the deal, NOW...Now's a good a time as any to negotiate, the Customer Cash may rise in the coming months, but the cars still need to sell now too...

    Also, how far are you willing to travel? Opening up the parameters will probably give you the results you're looking for. I personally will travel 500 miles for a car easily, but it's all about price for me...

    Good luck in your search, and enjoy your new whip when you get it...

  8. #8
    Grand Poobah tex2670's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by berttino2 View Post
    I'm shopping for a CX-5 Grand Touring AWS with the GT Premium package. The MSRP is $34,115 and the invoice is $32,713. So far I received 4 quotes, 3 around invoice and one at $32,000. None of these seem exceptional based on Truecar and KBB. So, before I continue calling any more dealers, am I wasting my time trying to buy a car now (July 9) vs the end of the month?

    I also mentioned Truecar and KBB pricing to a couple of the dealers and was told it's all bulls**t and that rebates are factored into the price when KBB clearly states that it's not the case, and Truecar says it only factors in incentives that apply to everyone which in this case means none (I think). One dealer even told me that lease pricing doesn't apply to those numbers.
    Seems to me the only risk you run is that as the 2019 MY comes to an end, you could hit supply problems for the exact model you want. I would definitely call as many dealers as you can, and widen your search radius if possible. But keep an eye on inventory.

  9. #9
    Structural Member shadonoz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by berttino2 View Post
    I'm shopping for a CX-5 Grand Touring AWS with the GT Premium package. The MSRP is $34,115 and the invoice is $32,713. So far I received 4 quotes, 3 around invoice and one at $32,000. None of these seem exceptional based on Truecar and KBB. So, before I continue calling any more dealers, am I wasting my time trying to buy a car now (July 9) vs the end of the month?
    Don't be in a hurry! That's the best way to get a bad deal.

    It can't hurt to tell as many dealers as you can what kind of deal you're looking for, and tell them to contact you if they can work with you. Email is your friend.
    Then wait. Just like fishing. [ok, not exactly like fishing at all, except for the wait]
    But as mentioned above, don't wait until it's too late and you go home empty handed.

  10. #10
    Registered Member Kaps's Avatar
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    I once asked for Invoice at a Hyundai dealer. He printed a pre made garbage and I knew it was wrong. Nobody pays close to 95% MSRP on a Hyundai.
    Invoice is not official - it is not verifiable with Mazda. Now if your purchase will tip the sales number and bring a huge incentive - the dealer might be more motivated.

    There are only two numbers : MSRP (Verifiable on Mazda website) and your discount percentage. Everything else is fluff - pay your taxes and keep doc fees in check.
    So your best deal will be from a volume dealer nearing an incentive threshold - which is unlikely at start of the month and might already be achieved by end of month. So around 20th to 25th seems golden from a calendar perspective.

    Also, Accessories are always free unless its above $300 in which case you can pay $100 bucks extra.

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  11. #11
    Gen-1 Kodo Design 👌 ColoradoDriver's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kaps View Post
    I once asked for Invoice at a Hyundai dealer. He printed a pre made garbage and I knew it was wrong. Nobody pays close to 95% MSRP on a Hyundai.
    Invoice is not official - it is not verifiable with Mazda. Now if your purchase will tip the sales number and bring a huge incentive - the dealer might be more motivated.

    There are only two numbers : MSRP (Verifiable on Mazda website) and your discount percentage. Everything else is fluff - pay your taxes and keep doc fees in check..
    Exactly. Forget bullshit invoice numbers. Everyone can see what MSRP is. Negotiate a good discount from that.
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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kaps View Post
    I once asked for Invoice at a Hyundai dealer. He printed a pre made garbage and I knew it was wrong. Nobody pays close to 95% MSRP on a Hyundai.
    Invoice is not official - it is not verifiable with Mazda. Now if your purchase will tip the sales number and bring a huge incentive - the dealer might be more motivated.

    There are only two numbers : MSRP (Verifiable on Mazda website) and your discount percentage. Everything else is fluff - pay your taxes and keep doc fees in check.
    So your best deal will be from a volume dealer nearing an incentive threshold - which is unlikely at start of the month and might already be achieved by end of month. So around 20th to 25th seems golden from a calendar perspective.

    Also, Accessories are always free unless its above $300 in which case you can pay $100 bucks extra.
    Damn right!

    Start your deal at the first of the month, stay focused, and you'll have it secured by the 3rd week, and of course, sometimes on the first day...

    I got almost 20% off MSRP, and I still didn't pay for Roof Rails or a bumper guard. Why? Because I didn't want that shit to begin with, so either take it off or I'm not paying for it. "We can't do that sir...". Well, Free it is then...It did end up costing me $55 to take the roof rails off and replace the moldings with non cut ones. All good, though...

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by ColoradoDriver View Post
    Exactly. Forget bullshit invoice numbers. Everyone can see what MSRP is. Negotiate a good discount from that.
    Yep, and include destination in your final MSRP number as well, not afterwards. That's right, I get a discount on everything as it sits on the lot. Why not, right?!

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    Thanks everyone for the great information. I was always led to believe that the invoice price is the watermark. So, I have one other question - how do I know what price I should shooting for? 10%-12% was mentioned above, but where did that come from? And is that number most likely gotten from a dealer who is one car away from hitting a sales target? I apologize in advance if my ignorance since I'll admit I'm an amateur going up against pro's.

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    Quote Originally Posted by berttino2 View Post
    Thanks everyone for the great information. I was always led to believe that the invoice price is the watermark. So, I have one other question - how do I know what price I should shooting for? 10%-12% was mentioned above, but where did that come from? And is that number most likely gotten from a dealer who is one car away from hitting a sales target? I apologize in advance if my ignorance since I'll admit I'm an amateur going up against pro's.
    The deal can be gotten from anywhere, email is your best friend...

    The 10-12% I mention is from personal buying experiences, and from just simply knowing they can...

    The number in general comes from data on the site that shows where folks have achieved this number, and basic numbers seems to be...

    4-7% - everyone gets this
    7-10% - normally can be had from the 7% simply by saying you want it and being persistent
    10-12%- really good deal
    12-15%- GREAT deal, congrats
    15-18%-read everything, and Sign, what are you waiting for?
    18%+- You just stole the damn thing, hell yea, boy!

    Stay the hell outta of the dealer lots. Do everything and have it in writing before you head down there...

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