DIY Mazda5 Roof Rack

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2010 Mazda 5 Sport
So found out that Mazda no longer stocks the $400 roof rack and Thule wants $600 for it...not only that, but it doesn't have adjustable cross bars. So here is an $85 solution. Easy build. (inspiration for the rubber stoppers came from a guy on youtube who tried something similar on his Mazda 5). This probably won't clear a sunroof unless you get more creative than me. Once everything is on, it's SOLID. Interlinking all 4 roof mounting points gives it serious rigidity.

4pc - 1.25" high #10 Solid Rubber Stoppers (2 packs of 3) - https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)
4pc - M6 x 50mm - Hand Fasteners (1 pack of 4) - https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)
4pc - SuperStrut End Caps (2 packs of 2) - SECB-B2-10
4pc - Superstrut 1" Pipe Clamps - "Z703 1-25"
8-10 Washers (fit M6 bolt)
10ft - 1" Conduit - Round
10ft - SuperStrut - "ZB1400HS 10"

Total cost is about $85. (if you source the stoppers cheaper (4 instead of 6), skip the end caps and use M6 bolts instead of hand fasteners, you could shave $20 off the price).

Tools Needed:

BFH (preferrably a sledge, 1" conduit is tougher than it looks)
Hack Saw for hacking metal.
Drill with drill bits.
Screw Driver

Tools not "required":
High speed grinder and wire wheel.

NOTE: It is CRITICAL that that stopper is AT LEAST 1.25" high! The Superstrut clamps need that much space. If not, you can try and shim between the conduit and stopper. Also, the M6 fasters will need shimming...they are a tad too long. The mounts in the roof only have 1cm worth of threads.

To build:

It's pretty straight forward.
1. Drill a hole in the center of 4 Rubber stoppers. Not so big that the M6 fasteners can fall out once inserted.
2. On one side of the car, mount 2 of the stoppers and the fasteners.
3. Measure from the outside tops of the stoppers.
4. Cut 2 pieces of Conduit that length. (now you have a third piece which makes for a great ratchet busting cheater bar)
5. Smash the ends of the conduit down flat with the BFH.
6. Put the conduit up to the stoppers on the car and mark where the bolts need to go. Be as precise as you can.
7. Drill holes in the flattened conduit ends.
8. Take the stoppers off the car. Put the conduit between the fastener and stopper and test fit it on the car.
9. Adjust/lengthen the holes in the conduit until it mounts correctly and easily.
10. Do the other side.
11. If you have a grinder, grind the ends of the conduit til they're rounded and smooth the edges with a wire wheel.
12. Use 2-3 washers between the M6 fastener and the stopper to take up the extra space so you can really tighten the conduit/stopper assembly down without the fasteners bottoming out.
13. Cut 2 Superstrut lengths 43" and 45" (or as long as you want for more overhang). The car is not the same width front to back...hence the 2 lengths.
14. Put the end caps on the Superstruts.
15. Mount the Superstruts wherever you want on the conduit with the clamps.
DONE!

This allowed me to put one of those black Craftsman blow molded plastic carriers on the roof. It has mounts about 22" apart. The picture shows the cross beams in the exact spot I need for it.

Once you have everything tightened and right where you want it...you can take the rack off in 1 piece! Just use the hand fasteners to release it from the roof. The Rubber Stoppers do not appear to leave any marks and protect the roof!

...and yes...

It howls just as much as you'd expect from an $85 DIY roof rack. Just turn your radio up.

Pics:
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20190613_204409.jpg


-Mike
 
Nice job mike

My oem was $269 from dealer. It is a thule unit with mazda badging.

Been using it 7 years
 
Best I could find was $330 discounted on-line from a dealer...but when I ordered it, they reversed the charges and de-listed the rack. Thule does seem to still offer it but they want $600 now.

We just did a 16 hour trip with it and a cargo carrier attached and it worked great. No issues other than wind noise.
 
Okay, I did miss this until you mentioned it in the intro thread. Very nice job! I ended up paying big bucks for the Thule one.. Not $600, but not far off. A little bit of regret is creeping in.. lol.
 
Very nice! Maybe you could put some aero on the front to keep it from making noise when empty? Paint black? I think the bolts I ended up using were 1/4-20, not M6.

I had no idea that the factory rack was going for that much. Makes me wonder what happened to the guy that said $120 was too much for my Mazda branded Thule rack with all the wind spoilers and original manual.
 
M6 screwed in perfectly. Everywhere I read, it was metric M6. Being Mazda, I also assumed, there are no English unit bolts on these cars.

Although 1/4" is nearly 6mm...so it probably will work.
 
Kudos for effort and would look good with some paint. How about DIY a fairing to cut noise? The total coat is kinda high bordering $100. Have you checked ebay (there's a used one for $185) and craigslist (I've bought 2 for under $100 each)? IMO, the whole roof rack debate is primarily around height clearance for OEM moonroof. If you don't have a moonroof, you can still buy the Rola's roof rack for $250; it is low profile and an aero bar. You can still find Inno roof rack (square bar) if you already have square bar accessories and don't want to change attachments.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)

https://www.ebay.com (commissions earned)


EDIT: never notice Mz5 share the same kit as the Outlander (per Rola's fitment). Options open up some more!
 
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For me, I needed the adjustable cross bars, as the mounting of the cargo carrier is not as wide as the fixed-point cross bars in those other roof racks. Otherwise I would be drilling holes in the cargo carrier.

I don't see any mass market racks that adjust like that for the Mazda 5, so I gave up going that route. I was used to my 4Runner and mini van which has roof rails and you just buy the cross bars and set them wherever you want.

-Mike
 
Cool, this works for your needs. Bonus that you can move both bars all the way back when not carrying anything (noise is not your problem). The howling noise with square bars can get pretty bad.
 
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It takes less than a minute to remove all in one piece...so it just goes on a hook in the garage. So wind noise is only an issue on trips.

BUT...If I was going to keep it on all the time, like for a weekend bike/ski rack, I would DEFINITELY consider looking for a more aerodynamic one.
 
@negusm First of all, great idea and thanks for sharing it!

It appears the pics in your original post are no longer appearing, it would be awesome if you could restore them...Is that possible?

On a related note, I added a link to your guide in our new Resources feature...
 
Yeah, they were in my Album here that looks like got nuked on a forum upgrade or something. I have the pictures somewhere. I will look.
 

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