CX-9 Transfer case or something else?

J

jonny rotten

:
08 cx9 grand touring
I'm getting a clunking noise coming from the front end. I" thought" it was from the transfer case as I lost rear wheel drive a few years ago but have been driving it.
( no clunking all this time) I'm also getting burning oil smell from time to time which I thought may be coming from the TC fluid leaking onto the exhaust. (not sure though).

Jacking up the front passenger side and moving the wheel back and forth a little in park (play in wheel) I hear the clunking noise coming from the CV axle where it mounts into tranny....on the drivers side not near the transfer case.

I can feel the clunking on the CV end "knuckle" on the tranny side and feel it on the edge of the tranny where the cv axle is mounted

The clunking doesnt happen at all speeds, I have no shimmy or pulling to one side and the noise seems to stop when I hit the brakes

Sorry for the crud explanation

If it was the transfer case would it transfer the noise and vibrations to the cv axle on the driver side?

The clunking noise almost sounds like a caliper or brake pads slapping around if that helps.....clunk clunk clunk clunk kind of thing

Any ideas?

Its bad enough where I'm not driving the car and need to get it fixed ASAP
 
well...I bought a new OEM transfer case from Amazon of all places. Saved me $300 and the dealer said they would except it and only charge me labor.

Anyone know the time it should take to install?
I would think the dealer would have a time in the spec book and would all be the same but different dealers have different prices based on the time to install it
 
If you are paying the dealer will bill you 5 hours. If it was a warranty repair that mazda pays they only pay for 2.3 hours of labor. So figure around625 for labor plus tax and other small parts, that is what was on the estimate i saw.
 
kornholio said:
If you are paying the dealer will bill you 5 hours. If it was a warranty repair that mazda pays they only pay for 2.3 hours of labor. So figure around625 for labor plus tax and other small parts, that is what was on the estimate i saw.
Click to expand...
No warranty. I bought all the OEM exhaust/cat gaskets. That with the OEM transfer case I dont see how they could bang me for many extras. They said the exhaust studs would most likely break and need to be drilled out...I could see that. That will be extra. I got a quote of $475 labor only plus the $665 transfer case and $60 oem exhaust gaskets. I think I've found the cheapest way possible while still going to a dealer and OEM parts....will report back after its done and see if they bang me any extras...which I'm expecting because they're all thieves
 
What is the labor rate per hour? it seems like this is cheaper than koeppel mazda. They charge I believe now 115 per hour. You also didn't mention before that you bought all of the other little parts which is good because they cannot charge you for those since you are providing them with the parts. Let us now how it goes. Also how did you come to the conclusion that it was the transfer case, just curious.
 
Last edited:
kornholio said:
What is the labor rate per hour? it seems like this is cheaper than koeppel mazda. They charge I believe now 115 per hour. You also didn't mention before that you bought all of the other little parts which is good because they cannot charge you for those since you are providing them with the parts. Let us now how it goes. Also how did you come to the conclusion that it was the transfer case, just curious.
Click to expand...
I really dont know if it is the transfer case to be honest. I lost RWD awhile ago and have been driving it like that for a few years as I dont need AWD. Now I'm getting front end clunking by the CV axle and tranny to the point I wont drive it. I also smelled oil burning a while back. All these things together makes me think its the transfer case. THe dealer agreed without seeing it. If its not the issue I have no idea what it would be. I dont want to return the parts and screw the vendors but they are returnable if need be
 
no you remove the driveshat and leave the rear diff in place. Take out driveshaft, take out passenger side axel, remove the transfer case, reinstall passenger side axel and you are done.
 
puma said:
no you remove the driveshat and leave the rear diff in place. Take out driveshaft, take out passenger side axel, remove the transfer case, reinstall passenger side axel and you are done.
Click to expand...
Interesting. Would have been an option but I would still pay someone the labor. So for a difference of $650 for the transfer case "hopefully" I'm back in business as the car was intended. I've owned the car for 8 years and havent put two cents into it aside from brakes and oil that I did myself....so I guess I'm doin alright....although it should have been recalled and free but it is what it is.

If the dealer tries to beat me up with some BS I might just tell them to forget and it and I'll turn it into a 2WD
 
make sure they look into the splines in the transmission to make sure they are not shot or you will be installing the new transfer case for nothing.
 
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