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Thread: New acquisition

  1. #1
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    New acquisition

    Hey everyone! Picked this bad boy up recently for a song and in need of some love. I'm waiting on parts at the moment, but I'm gonna be doing a head gasket, water pump, timing set, and some small maintenance items to go with it. I'm going to have a machine shop look at the head to make sure its all squared away, and I was wondering if there's anything else I should have then to to help with longevity or performance. Looking for some best practice type things, not intending to build the head or motor. Depending on how money shakes out I may fix her up for my little brother or I may swap in a 5 speed from my buddies parts car and keep her as a nice little daily. I've messed with bp motors in Miatas but this is my first protege.

    Thanks all


    P.s. I was looking at Haynes books but apparently the one for the protege is 90-03 and reviews say it's really spotty for the later cars. What do y'all think?

  2. #2
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

    2002 mazda protege 5

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    Here's a link to the Factory Service Manual for download.

    http://www.floptical.net/mazda/
    The Diagram Dude

  3. #3
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Our FS engine is notorious for burning oil. Up to a quart every 250 miles.

    The oil rings on the pistons seize up and let oil past them while the compression stays fine.

    You might consider doing a ring job while you're in there.

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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by pcb View Post
    Our FS engine is notorious for burning oil. Up to a quart every 250 miles.

    The oil rings on the pistons seize up and let oil past them while the compression stays fine.

    You might consider doing a ring job while you're in there.

    Is there any way to do that without pulling the engine? I was hoping to make this somewhat quick in terms of tear down

  5. #5
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    I managed to pull that from my parts car without removing the engine.

    You remove the oil pan then the upper oil pan to gain access to the connecting rods.

    You have to drill through the housing to gain access to two bolts on the edge of the upper oil pan.

    There's some pictures and info on my "unbuild thread".
    I just wanted to quickly tear into my parts car to look at a piston.

    https://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...Unbuild-Thread

    I remember MrGiggles did a "quick and sloppy" ring job on his car. I'm not quite sure what all that entails.
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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by pcb View Post
    I managed to pull that from my parts car without removing the engine.

    You remove the oil pan then the upper oil pan to gain access to the connecting rods.

    You have to drill through the housing to gain access to two bolts on the edge of the upper oil pan.

    There's some pictures and info on my "unbuild thread".
    I just wanted to quickly tear into my parts car to look at a piston.

    https://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...Unbuild-Thread

    I remember MrGiggles did a "quick and sloppy" ring job on his car. I'm not quite sure what all that entails.
    I'll probably hold off on the rings then tbh. If it ends up needing them I'd rather do it properly and with bearings too

  7. #7
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Here's a link to doing a timing belt change.

    https://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...ng-Belt-Change
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    Quote Originally Posted by pcb View Post
    Here's a link to doing a timing belt change.

    https://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...ng-Belt-Change
    Perfect. as for the head coming off, I can just turn it to tdc and then mark the cams and head right? So that I know where they go

  9. #9
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    A bunch of people have had some luck with engine oil treatments to free up their oil rings.

    It would suck for you to do all that work then to find your engine is burning oil like a mofo.

    Can you drive the car now to get a sense if it burning oil before you tear into it ??
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by pcb View Post
    A bunch of people have had some luck with engine oil treatments to free up their oil rings.

    It would suck for you to do all that work then to find your engine is burning oil like a mofo.

    Can you drive the car now to get a sense if it burning oil before you tear into it ??
    It wasn't smoking at all before the head gasket went, but now it's making very bad compression. The head gasket is total toast, so it won't even start

  11. #11
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    If it wasn't smoking then you might be OK with some sort of oil treatment after it's back together.

    I use Seafoam in my oil all the time and my engine doesn't burn any oil.

    Here's a link to the oil burning issue.

    https://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...l-acceleration
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  12. #12
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by wither48 View Post
    Perfect. as for the head coming off, I can just turn it to tdc and then mark the cams and head right? So that I know where they go
    There's timing marks on the cams and crank gear.

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  13. #13
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Don't forget to rotate your engine over a couple of times after the belt is installed to check your timing again.

    I had my belt on and off a dozen times before I finally got it right.
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