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Thread: Spare tire subwoofer question

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    Registered Member Anzi's Avatar

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    Spare tire subwoofer question

    Hey guys, I may be getting the whole spare tire sub setup for my car, and I’m wondering about adapting it to my aftermarket head unit. There is wiring for an aftermarket sub in the car thanks to the PO, but no factory pigtail to plug in the sub harness, since my car is an 02. What have other people here done to hook in the tire sub?

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    Do you have RCA outputs on the back of the headunit? If so, run them to an amp to power the sub.

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    Registered Member Anzi's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by fts902 View Post
    Do you have RCA outputs on the back of the headunit? If so, run them to an amp to power the sub.
    To my knowledge, the spare tire sub unit has a built in amplifier.

  4. #4
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    This is all I've got for schematics.
    It doesn't cover the sub that came out in 2003.



    You either have line level inputs on the sub or speaker level inputs.

    I'm guessing Mazda didn't change their head unit for 2003 to add RCA outputs and just tapped into the rear speaker wires to send it to the sub as a speaker level input.

    I'm guessing the connector has 4wires going in.
    Two would be the speaker level input and probably smaller gauge wire and two would be + and - to power the sub.
    There is probably another wire to turn the sub on and off.

    A schematic would help a lot as well as having the sub shipped with the connector there and the wires cut so you can trace them and study the wire gauge and color code.

    If it were me I'd install a small, efficient sub in a box that you can remove easily if needed.

    The factory sub is probably a cheap piece of plastic but it wouldn't draw too much power or it would over work our underpowered electrical system.
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  5. #5
    Registered Member Anzi's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by pcb View Post
    This is all I've got for schematics.
    It doesn't cover the sub that came out in 2003.



    You either have line level inputs on the sub or speaker level inputs.

    I'm guessing Mazda didn't change their head unit for 2003 to add RCA outputs and just tapped into the rear speaker wires to send it to the sub as a speaker level input.

    I'm guessing the connector has 4wires going in.
    Two would be the speaker level input and probably smaller gauge wire and two would be + and - to power the sub.
    There is probably another wire to turn the sub on and off.

    A schematic would help a lot as well as having the sub shipped with the connector there and the wires cut so you can trace them and study the wire gauge and color code.

    If it were me I'd install a small, efficient sub in a box that you can remove easily if needed.

    The factory sub is probably a cheap piece of plastic but it wouldn't draw too much power or it would over work our underpowered electrical system.
    Thing is I*m being traded the sub setup in its entirety for my parts car. I*m thinking of taking the audio inputs to the sub and splicing those to some RCA cables, so that I can control the sub better from my headunit.

  6. #6
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by Anzi View Post
    Thing is I*m being traded the sub setup in its entirety for my parts car.


    I don't think you're getting a fair deal.
    I wouldn't trade my parts car for that and my parts car is a rusted piece of shit.



    I*m thinking of taking the audio inputs to the sub and splicing those to some RCA cables, so that I can control the sub better from my headunit.

    You'll get much better sound with a small efficient separate sub and all the connections plug directly into your aftermarket stereo.
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    I agree. Dont make that trade.

  8. #8
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    I'm pretty sure that sub is plastic.
    It just rattles around in your trunk making noise.

    It's not real bass.
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    I had one in my P5 it was nearly worthless. I replaced it with a Pioneer 12 and a small amp.

  10. #10
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Don't get a high power amp and sub unless you install a high output alternator or you'll kill your battery and burnout your alt.

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    Registered Member Anzi's Avatar

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    Eh, the way the audio system is in my car right now, I already don't feel a big need for much of a sub. I listen to classic rock, and have a bitcoin' EQ currently. This would just add a bit more. And I never said I'm trading the parts car, which I need gone from my apartment complex by Sunday, for ONLY the sub setup

  12. #12
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    OK.
    Get the schematics or pictures of your connector.
    Last edited by pcb; 04-16-2019 at 01:05 AM.
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  13. #13
    Registered Member Anzi's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by pcb View Post
    OK.
    Get the schematics or pictures of your connector.
    Already done. Just got off the phone with a car audio expert friend of mine, and it'll be simple to splice the 8 pin into RCA cables as well as the necessary factory power wires (battery pos, accessory power, amp trigger, and ground).

  14. #14
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    You're good to go then.
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