PCB's Unbuild Thread

I remember taking the side skirts off a few years ago and didn't know how the clips worked until I broke about half of them.

IIRC, your remove the screws and slide the whole thing towards the front of the car.
That unhooks the clips.

The FSM doesn't really help too much.

 
I was talking to my brother in law and he said he always pulled pistons out from the bottom.
He said you can't take them out the top because of ring ridge.
I asked if he had to remove the crankshaft and he said you just work it around the crank.

So I went to try to pull a piston from the bottom and didn't have any luck.
First, I hit ring ridge at the bottom and I couldn't pound it down any further and it sure looks like the crank is in the way.
It even looks like they might not come out the bottom even with the crank removed ??

I couldn't feel any ring ridge at the top of any of the cylinders but could feel it at the bottom.






I took a picture of the holes I drilled to access the two upper oil pan bolts.

 
I went to NAPA to get some paint mixed up but it was going to cost $43.50 for a pint so I decided against it.

I've still got some from a few years ago so I'm going to use that with a paintbrush.

I'm sure it's gonna look crappy but hopefully not as bad as it does now.

I only need a tiny bit of red and I'll sand more carefully next time I get to it.

 
They don't have it for Mazda Classic Red (A3E).

I'd prefer a rattle can, I find them easier to operate.
 
Thanks for the info on sideskirts. A few years back one of mine fell off and I ziptied it back on but haven't looked into the screws etc.

If you don't plan on making it like a show car or anything like that I'd say find the closest duplicolor can to your paint. Can seldom notice pending on how large of an area you have to paint.
I was in the same boat b/c I couldn't find any A3D white paint for mine.

Some hardware stores could match it for you, a select few can put them in spray cans.
 
I remember unbolting the gas cover and taking it in to the hardware store to match it up to a can of paint.

It looked close in the store but didn't match well on the car.
I didn't clear coat it either, that may have helped.



I think I've decided to leave the moldings on the car and do a quick job with just the clear coat and brush on some paint where it's really bad.

I don't want to open up this rats nest.

 
Ohhh boy that looks like a whole bunch of trouble!

For paint, see if there's an automotive paint supplier nearby, the place that autobody shops buy their materials from.

Normally they can whip up a spray can pretty cheap as they do it for shops all the time.
 
PCB, I hope you don't get mad with me for saying this, but.... I think your P5 is passed the stage where you use aerosol paint cans. It time for ghetto style paint job! (naughty)

Get a roller and roll on the paint. Paint the entire car for a couple of hundred dollars! With careful masking and removing some bits here and there, it'll look as good as new!! (from 3 metres away) (2thumbs) The perfect "unbuild" paint job!!

Plus it'll helps with the rust too. Helps to hide it better! :D




 
PCB, I hope you don't get mad with me for saying this, but.... I think your P5 is passed the stage where you use aerosol paint cans. It time for ghetto style paint job! (naughty)

That's more my speed !!
The car's simply not worth the time effort and money anymore.

I think I'm gonna just remove the flaking clear coat, give it a light sanding then spray it down with clear coat to bring back the shine.

It so disheartening having a car that's rotting away.
It's really hard to feel inspired to work on it.

I get the car undercoated next month to help delay the inevitable.
 
I've got some clear coat and enough A3E to probably make it look better.

I watched a few videos about fixing peeling clear coat and the fading dull paint came right back to shiny after they applied the clear coat.

 
Now I need to do something about the peeling clear coat and bird s***.


It finally stopped raining and warmed up so I decided to tackle my rear wing.

I managed to use a razor blade to carefully scrape all the clear coat off.



Then sanded it lightly but wore through in one spot so I put some paint on with a paintbrush.

It looks like s***.



It does look a lot better than it did so I'm still happy with the results but I've got runs in it and it isn't smooth


 
The seals around the hood are the same way.
I'm gonna trim off one end and glue them on too.


I got around to glueing the hood seal on.

I was having trouble with that too.
The silicone didn't stick to the door seal. It stuck to the door but not to the rubber, so I got a can of contact cement to do the hood seal.

That didn't work worth a crap either. The glue just peeled off both the hood and the seal.

So I tried two face tape. That stuck to the car but not the rubber hood seal.

The only other thing I could think of was rubber glue so I bought a small can of that.

I followed the directions and scuffed up the rubber with sandpaper. It's the same stuff and technique for fixing an inner tube for a bicycle.

Then I put the glue on. Let it dry and stuck it to the two face tape that was still on my hood.

This time it worked !! It's still stuck there !!

I ended up cutting 2" of each end of the seal.

Now I've got to try to glue the door seal to the silicone on the door.

 
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