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Thread: PCB's Unbuild Thread

  1. #46
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

    2002 mazda protege 5

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    Yea this was me.



    I'm the redneck. lol

    I did that in 2013, I put a piece on top then put a jack under the engine and lifted it a bit to make room for the bottom one.

    I should go look and see if they're still in there.

    This is before I put the rubber in.

    Last edited by pcb; 04-12-2019 at 06:32 AM.
    The Diagram Dude

  2. #47
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    I forget where I posted it but our car uses.

    8 mm
    10 mm
    12 mm
    14 mm
    17 mm
    21 mm

    And the only odd ball is the Oil Drain Plug.
    It's a 19 mm.
    I'm always forgetting what size it is and it's the only 19 mm that I recall on our car.

    I think it's 19 mm because it's the metric equivalent of 3/4" so a mechanic or oil change place can change your oil with an SAE socket or wrench.

    My set of metric deep sockets doesn't have a 19 mm. They just put a 3/4" in the set instead.

    The problem with the drain plug is that it uses very little torque for such a big bolt head and it's really easy to strip it. (and that's a huge problem then)



    To help me prevent over torquing/stripping it, I choke upon the handle of the wrench/socket handle to get a better feel of the pressure.

    A regular bolt/nut with 22-30 ft.lbf would be small with a wrench having a much shorter handle.
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  3. #48
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

    2002 mazda protege 5

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    The rain stopped and it dried up so I thought I'd try to remove that header bolt.

    This was my idea.



    I thought I should clean everything up first.

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  4. #49
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    I got it welded.



    Fuck ! Snapped off.



    Third try.



    Same thing happened.

    One more try then I'll grind/dremel it off.



    Success !!



    Pulled it towards me and broke it off.



    Used a big flathead and a hammer to unscrew the first few threads.



    It unscrewed by hand after a few turns.



    Souvenir/Good luck charm.



    I couldn't get the header out of the engine bay without getting hung up or taking it apart so in just lowered it for now.

    I think with the head off, I can get it out in one piece.



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  5. #50
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by Riot_Polizei View Post
    Anyhow, you should get a fancy torque wrench that shows you how hard you're pulling on the bolts to loosen them. That'll be the cherry on top to this kind of un-build!
    I just bought one of these.



    My parts car fell off the blocks last year and it would have really helped.

    I figure I'll use it more than a torque wrench.
    I can go pull out a stump or something. lol
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  6. #51
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    I got some work done.

    I figured out where this thing is.



    It's right here.



    I tried to get it from the top but after 10 minutes I gave in and crawled under my rusty ass parts car.

    It only took me 30 min. to crawl under the car to get to it and remove the two bolts !!



    This is the piece off the side of the block.



    Pretty sure that's the ECT sensor.(I'll check the FSM later.)
    You can see the temperature probe.

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  7. #52
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    I didn't want to mess with this connector so I cut it.



    One last connection I missed.



    Head's out.





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  8. #53
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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  9. #54
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    If you need to open your hood further, I found a hack.

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  10. #55
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    I went to work on getting the oil pan off.



    I got all the bolts out.
    It was easy.



    I sharpened a flathead screwdriver to pry it off.







    Oil pan removed.







    There's where the dipstick goes.





    The upper oil pan is loose but it's still hung up on something.



    That's when I realized I missed the two "BOLTS".



    I think they're hidden inside. I'm gonna try to cut a hole through and see if I can get to the two bolts.
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  11. #56
    31N007 KingOfSpades007's Avatar

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    I did that. Two holes drilled into the bottom of the transmission. Then rotate the flywheel to get the slots to where you can slide a 10mm on an extension to get to those bolts.


    I should dig up some pics of my first Protege5. Looked bad like yours. Ahh rust belt states...
    I need a brain.

    2002 Protege5

    Performance
    TWM SS
    CS shifter bushings
    Fidanza flywheel
    Eibach springs
    Tokico Illumina 5 way adj. struts
    AWR MM (all 4)
    RE71R on Filk FTDs

    Visual
    JDM tails
    Mini H1 7.0 35W 4500K

    1996 Subaru Impreza Outback
    Winter beater

    1993 Ford Escort GT
    "The Rally-X Pig"


    That cone looked rather tasty...



  12. #57
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Do you remember what size extension ?

    Will a 3/8" or 1/2" fit, or do I need to use 1/4"
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  13. #58
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    I didn't know about he slots in the flywheel.

    Thanks for that

    I assume I can see the flywheel once the holes are drilled ?
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  14. #59
    31N007 KingOfSpades007's Avatar

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    3/8", 10mm socket and a 3" or 6" extension should give you plenty of reach. I used a drill bit that was larger than the socket by a decent amount. You can see in the diagram roughly where the holes are that you should drill. I found an image online that gave a pretty good idea of where to drill the holes. I didn't bother trying to find anything to plug them up afterwards, as I figure any water that manages to make its way into the bellhousing will drain out of those same holes.

    https://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...ne-and-oil-pan

    either side of the "ears" is where I drilled the holes. And I could angle the socket the small amount required to get the socket onto the 10mm.
    Last edited by KingOfSpades007; 04-16-2019 at 07:21 PM.
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  15. #60
    31N007 KingOfSpades007's Avatar

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    Sorry for updating my comment so often. Yes, you should be able to shine a light into the holes to see the slots on the backside of the flywheel. I wouldn't be surprised if it wasn't something where, as long as the clutch hasn't been replaced before, you can't just set the engine to TDC and it'll be lined up.
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