PCB's Unbuild Thread

Sorry for updating my comment so often...

Thanks for posting !!

I didn't know any of that and I'm sure I would have spent a week trying to figure it out.

I was going to try to cut the whole thing off or try to break it off.


5 straight days of rain coming so I won't be at it again for a while.
 
I was under there today with the biggest drill bit I had but I didn't have enough clearance to stand the drill up.

I'm going to try my Dremel tool with a carbide reamer bit.
 
Yipes! Spring showers, right? (In MI the forecast is looking the same)

I did have access to a mate's 90degree drill (funny story about creating a 90 degree drillbit out of a Chineesium drill bit should be inserted here)

Another guy I helped I think I just jacked the front of the car way up to get enough access to use a drill underneath. We might have used one of those stepper bits, but I can't remember as it was a little while ago.
 
I did just buy the farm jack but I'm not crawling under there with that thing holding it up. lol
 
... We might have used one of those stepper bits, but I can't remember as it was a little while ago.

Thanks again !!

I forgot I had a set of those (I don't think I ever used them).

They're shorter too so the drill might fit underneath.

 
It didn't end up raining today so I got back under my car.

Thanks KingOfSpades007 for all the pointers.

I had the upper oil pan off and a piston out in less than an hour. (pretty good time for me)

The drill was short enough to fit under the car.



I drilled one hole out and looked but I couldn't see anything.
I needed to put an extension on the bit because my drill chuck started hitting.



Then I drilled out the second one but it wouldn't go through.
I took a look again and I was drilling into the flywheel. (Oops.. Good thing it's a Junker)

Rotated the crank and got the hole through but had a hard time with the 3/8" extension (too fat) so I went to a 1/4" extension and found the bolt.
It broke free easily.

First one out.



Second one.



A little help from my stubby sledge and it was out.
(I found the sledgehammer in a creek. The handle was all warped anyway.)



I noticed there's threaded holes on the oil pan so I screwed in a bolt to get something to hammer on.



It's out !!

 


What the hell are those ??
Do I need to buy more sockets ??





Oh.. Duh.

10 mm 12 point.



Not gonna happen.
The wrench was bending and it's gonna take out my knuckles.



Plan B.
Luckily I have a 12 point 3/8" 10 mm socket.



I made a cheater bar out of an old chair.



Got a piston out.





You can see the plugged up oil drain holes and the seized up oil ring.
No tension on the oil ring.



 
Great success!

I'm sorry I got the 3/8 vs 1/4 extensions wrong. But glad you had the tools you needed. The wear on the side of that piston looks a bit worse than mine did in my old P5. Oil return holes look equally as blocked up (what a pain in the neck) as the ones I had. I'll take close-up photos of the old pistons of mine when I can find them again!!
 
The 3/8" worked for the first bolt but my hole was a bit off on the second hole and the 1/4" gave me a bit more wobble room.
 
pcb said:
horseflesh said:
You drill up to the bolts ? Curious to see the thread now. As I am likely doing exactly that shortly. Fok. Love these cars but damn the learning curve is getting steep.

You drill through the "housing" which is 1/2" thick then there's an "air gap" of about three inches to the bolts.
But the "flanges" of the flywheel might be in the way and block access, so you rotate the crank until you can see the bolts.
The flanges of the flywheel have about 1/2" of clearance to the inside of the housing.

I didn't take pictures of that part because I had metal bits falling in my hair and one little piece fell in my eye. But I will crawl under again and take a picture of the holes I drilled.
It's easy to drill through because it's cast aluminum.

One thing you might want to do is glue your socket to the extension. I used hot glue gun for my 1" JIS bits because I didn't want them getting lost.
You just heat it up again to pull the socket off and pull the glue off (it's kinda like wax).

The hole I drilled was just big enough to get the socket through then I had to be really careful pulling it back through the hole or the socket pops off and it's trapped inside.

The holes don't have to be dead on because you reach up 3" and have some wobble room but I did switch to 1/4" socket and extension to help.
The bolts are small with little torque so 1/4" will work.

I'm gonna repost this in my thread because I was going to put it in there anyway and I do all this with my phone and one finger so it takes me forever.

I do check kijiji and I should do it more often so i can jump on a clean one if it shows up.
Maybe I could even post a wanted ad ??

I don't care much about the cosmetic rust, it's the rotten frames I don't like.
 
Gabe710 said:
good lord. How did it just rust sitting there? I could understand if road salt was getting to it. But just sitting there doesn't make sense to me


pcb said:
Both my DD and parts car were well rusted before I got them.

Once it's established it just keep going.

My parts car was kind of a stupid purchase because I've ended up buying new parts anyway.
No use putting rotten parts on my car.

It did come with new P-brake cables that I swapped to my car. And I've used a couple solenoids as well as lightbulbs and various other clips and connectors, but I would have been better off just getting those things at a wrecker.


pcb said:
If it's just surface rust, you can clean it up and paint it, but my rust is structural.

I had my car up on T-stands two years ago and they punched right through the frame.
My heart sank and I lost almost all interest in my car.

It was right where the trailing arm connects to the frame. I just drove it with this nagging feeling that my trailing arms were going to break off.

I finally took my car to a mechanic after a year and had him weld on a reinforcement plate on the side that was the worst.

He did say when I picked up the car that it won't pass safety but I neglected to ask him exactly why or how much it would cost to meet safety.

I'd love to get a rust free shell but there's nothing like that around here so I'd have to get one from a salt free region and that might involve customs and passports and a ton of "shipping costs".


 
I did have the T-stands where they're supposed to go but there was very little metal left and they both punched through the frame.

 
I got my rear wiper today and went out to install it.



What a mess under there.






The how-to said to drill out the big washer thing but I wanted to keep the seal that's in it.

I had water get in there a few years ago and it rusted the shaft and it stopped rotating so I wanted to keep it to help keep water out.

Started grinding the plastic away to make clearance.



I shaved it down till it looked like the original.



Caked it with a pile of grease and put it back together.



It's got clearance now.



It works way better now. The blade is now making contact on the top of the window.

It came with a crack in the cover,.. not that big of a deal as long as it doesn't fall off.



Now I need to do something about the peeling clear coat and bird s***.

 
Looks good!The rear wiper really does clean up the rear nicely.

For the spoiler I know some people opt to plastidip it black, I personally think it looks tacky but it's an easy fix if you don't want to go about trying to redo the clear coat and all.
 
Good idea !!

But the clear coat is pealing on the rear bumper and side skirts too.

I don't know what it would look like with half the car done in plastidip??



 
The only thing I've plastidipped is the rear valence on the bumper, I think with all those parts plastidipped it'd look really ricey.. but that's just my opinion!
If you personally think it would look good, then that's all that matters. Plus with plastidip if you don't like it, if you've sprayed enough coats you can simply peel it off.

I think I'd try to source out parts for those, or try to repaint/clear after you prepped it all up.
 
The only thing I've plastidipped is the rear valence on the bumper, I think with all those parts plastidipped it'd look really ricey.. but that's just my opinion! ...

I agree.

So I decided to try prep my side skirt for a new layer of clear coat.

I made a big ****** mess !!

I sanded right into the primer. !!



So now it's turned into a bigger job. I'm off to NAPA tomorrow to get some A3E mixed up.

I've got some better quality clear coat and I've got lots to get painted.







They say you can't polish a turd but I'm gonna give it a try !!
 
Painting over the peeling clear is a major PITA! Your new paint may react with the sanded clear coat, mine did when I repainted the front bumper.

Depending on the paint you can seal over everything with a good primer, then colour coats, or you can sand aaaaaallllll the clear off, prime and colour coat (that's what I had to do)


Good luck!


Favourite saying: You can't polish a turd but you can roll it in glitter!
 
Depending on the paint you can seal over everything with a good primer, then colour coats, or you can sand aaaaaallllll the clear off, prime and colour coat (that's what I had to do)

Awwww Crap !!
This is turning into a big project...

Guess I should try to remove the crumbling side skirts and try to do it right.

Oh well, at least the weather is nice now but I really suck at bodywork.

The bad part is when I get it all done, someone's gonna drive into my car.
That show Murphy's law works.
 
Ahh man, that looks like quite a fun project to tackle... just think of it as a learning experience and brushing up your bodywork skills.
At least the side skirts and the side mirror pieces come right out.. especially the mirror covers.

Hey, it will only happen if you keep expecting it to happen! :p
 
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