PCB's Unbuild Thread

I carried on with trying to remove the head.
I got all the head bolts out and thought I could just lift it out but realized the exhaust is connected to it and needed to come off.
(I didn't bother reading the instructions. Maybe I'll do that now. lol)
 
I got one camshaft out and tried to remove a head bolt but my ratchet handle wasn't cutting it, so I got my 1/2" breaker bar and put a 1/2"-3/8" adapter on it to fit my Allen bits.
That worked. They were pretty tight.



Removed second cam.



I put a 3/8" extension on my drill to speed things up a little.



This bolt was close but it fit.



The adjustment shims...
Some had circles on them. I guess those ones were spinning.





 
This is where I realized that the exhaust is connected to the head.
The nut and bolt heads are rusted to s***.



I had no clearance for some of them even when I switched to a 1/4" ratchet.
The 1/2" ratchet wouldn't fit quite square.





I had to use a 12 mm wrench to reach them and then it happened. I striped the heads off a few of them. s*** !!



I went and got my 11 mm wrench and it would'nt fit.



That's when I decided to stop and regroup.

I'm gonna try to hammer the 11 mm wrench on today but even that's hard to do.
I'm thinking hammering on a four inch long 1/4" extension.

I could try to chisel off the heads or spend an hour or two grinding them off with my dremel.

Or I could just cut the exhaust pipes off the exhaust flange or even just pound the living s*** out of it with a sledgehammer but the header is a fancy, rare Wagner 4 into one something or other.

I have no need for it (mostly because installing it on my DD would lead to the same crap with my DD)

We'll see how it goes today.
 
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Wow, you have a rare Wagner shorty header on your parts car! While deconstructing this P5, you should set it aside an try to clean it up. You could make a little bit of cash on that.

Anyhow, you should get a fancy torque wrench that shows you how hard you're pulling on the bolts to loosen them. That'll be the cherry on top to this kind of un-build!
 
This is a quote from Riot_Polizei's thread.

"I do have one but it's a 35 year old worn out piece of crap. And I don't know where it is."

I found my old one !!
(note the spiders nest in it. lol)



I remember why it sucks. The Chuck only fits the bits that came with it.

Regular bits are 1/4" (I think) and these bits are bigger.



You can't use it on a socket without some sort of adapter.
And the bits are huge, I couldn't use them on my little gas cover screws.

The new one has a 1/2" square drive and I've got adaptors for it to fit a regular sized bit.

I'm thinking I should have gotten the 3/8" drive version now because I'm probably going to use it on smaller stuff.

I'm such a bonehead !!

My friend came over and took a look at my old impact driver and did this to it...



I didn't know the damn chuck comes off !!
I never thought to pull on it.

I just spent almost $30 for a new one that's exactly the same.
 
Wow, you have a rare Wagner shorty header on your parts car! While deconstructing this P5, you should set it aside an try to clean it up. You could make a little bit of cash on that.

Yea, I've got one last bolt to remove. It's seized with no access except with a wrench and I striped it.

I'm gonna try to weld a piece of rod or another bolt to it tomorrow with my little arc welder.
It'll be good practice for me.


Anyhow, you should get a fancy torque wrench that shows you how hard you're pulling on the bolts to loosen them. That'll be the cherry on top to this kind of un-build!

I've been considering it but I'm having a hard time justifying $50-$100 on a tool I only use once or twice a year.

That $30 I just wasted on the impact driver would have gone along way towards a torque wrench.

I've got to do a bit more research before I make a purchase.
 
I got more done today.

I put the heat to this bolt and managed to remove it with 1/4" extension and a 12 mm socket.





Some bolts came out looking brand new.



The EGR bung didn't want to disconnect even after lots of heat. The tube going to the exhaust pipe was starting to twist and I didn't want to break it off so I cut it.

I tried my cutoff saw and it was clunking and catching and wasn't cooperating so I got my grinder with a cutoff disk and it cut through it smooth as butter.





Then I "disconnected" the fuel line.
I didn't want to bother figuring out the connector so I just cut it off.



The dipstick needed to be removed as well as the top piece of the T-belt cover.
There's two bolts at the back that I managed to get out but it was still hung up so I yanked on it and broke it out.



There's four bolts holding on whatever this thing is but the bottom right bolt was holding a bracket for the EGR tube and the tube was blocking access.
I had to push on the tube pretty hard to get access.



I found an 11 mm nut but it wasn't original.
The PO must have lost the original and cross threaded an SAE nut on to the stud.



Cut the other fuel line.



Its coming along.



With that thing removed.



Got the throttle cable removed but it didn't want to come out of the bracket so I broke the plastic tabs off to get it out.



It's loose now but I still need to get that last bolt out of the exhaust and remove it.
 
These instructions make it look easy, 9 simple steps and your cylinder head is out.

I still don't know what part #3 is or where it is. It might still be in there ??

 
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I was going to do some welding today but it's too cold out.

Freezing rain tonight, snow tomorrow.
 
Here's how you remove your door seal.

You don't just pull or you'll rip it. You slide it and stretch the hole to one side and unhook it.





 
I'm pretty sure it's the undercoating I get done every year that swelled my seals but it's a small price to pay to keep the rust at bay.

The seals around the hood are the same way.
I'm gonna trim off one end and glue them on too.

 
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Does the Torque App show freeze frame data and PID's ??

And what's a PID ?

Edit: I think I figured it out.

I've been looking at PID'S with my scanner and torque app. (it's been a couple of years.)

I guess freeze frame is a snapshot of the parameters when you pop a code.

 
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I thought I'd post some pics that I have on my phone and scattered through the threads here.






















 
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I didn't have a torque wrench but I don't need one.

I was about 175 lbs. at the time of installation which is a bit too much at 12" so I set my foot peg at 11" which would be on the high end of the torque range but I'd prefer it on the tighter side.
 

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