Replace your coolant: CX-5 CX-3 Mazda3 Mazda6

This information may be elsewhere in this forum. But, since I recently replaced a CX-9 water pump I was forced to become more knowledgeable about the FL22 coolant and options.
For future readers here are the options that are currently available for FL22 coolant:
OEM diluted Mazda part#: 0000-77-508E-20
Mazda has a concentrate formula OEM: 0000-77-501E-02 but this can be tougher to find and appears on some sites to be discontinued.
Ford (Motorcraft)diluted version: VC-10-A
Ford (Motorcraft) concentrate: VC-10-A2 (specialty green)
There are aftermarket options from Ravenol and Pentosin (and Zerex if you don*t care about the resulting color of the mix):
Ravenol is available in both diluted and concentrate:
Diluted: Ravenol J4D2091-1-10 HJC FL22
Concentrate: Ravenol J4D2091-10 HJC FL22
Pentosin Pentofrost A2 is a dark green concentrate that must be mixed with water. The nice thing about Pentofrost A2 is that it is available at some auto part stores and Rockauto for a much better price compared to most of the options above.
The Zerex Asian formulas are also compatible and likely the same chemistry * but the color can be a challenge (blue or pink) unless you do a complete change. And, as far as I am aware, the Zerex Asian vehicle formulas are only available as diluted.

Not 100% sure about the Ford coolants, but I'm fairly certain that 0000-77-501E-02 is NOT FL-22, but the "1st gen" long life coolant that Mazda was using for a while. This chart seems to back that up: 49024155578_8f7b6623b7_o.png

I believe that Pentofrost A2 is also equivalent to 0000-77-501E-02 (i.e. not FL-22), since it references the 501E part number, and their antifreeze guide states that A2 should be not used in Mazdas 2006 and newer : http://www.pentosin.net/literature/Pentosin Pentofrost Antifreeze Guide.pdf

Ravenol appears to be FL-22 as far as I can tell and, as I said, no idea which category the Motorcraft coolants fall under.
 
Reluctantly I agree that Mazda Long Life Coolant concentrate (501E) and the Pentosin A2 are first generation phosphate HOAT formulas that do not have the exact FL22 additive package. But, these first generation Japanese P-HOAT coolants contain all the same main ingredients and are silicate free formulas, completely compatible with FL22. Mazda will tell you to put FL22 in a car with Mazda Long Life. If you dilute these first gen Japanese P-HOAT coolants with distilled water I’m confident that you will NOT compromise the life of your Mazda engine, water pump and radiator-but you probably should drain at 60K versus 120K for the FL22.

Ravenol Hybrid Japanese Coolant diluted and concentrate both explicitly claim FL22 - and I believe them.
The Motorcraft specialty green = Ford VC-10-A2 and Ford coolant spec is also listed on the Ravenol HJC packaging. Also, Ford VC-10-A2 is explicitly used in the Ford Edge and Flex at the same time FL22 appeared in the first gen CX-9. So, for me at least, Ravenol and Ford VC-10-A2 pass as exact substitutes for FL22 in a concentrate form.
The Toyota Super Long Life Coolant and Honda Type 2 (Asian Pink and Blue) are also second gen P-HOAT = FL22, but different colors. Be thankful we have some concentrate substitutes that match our dark green pixie dust coolant.
 
I guess I’ll just get genuine Mazda OEM FL-22 coolant and be done with it. I’m not going to try to figure out the compatibility issue among many other different types of FL-22 coolant.

It’s worth to mention that the recommended coolant change interval is shortened to a half after the first replacement at 120K miles or 10 years:

Replace at first 192,000 km (120,000 miles) or 10 years; after that, every 96,000 km (60,000 miles) or 5 years.
 

Any of these would work.....same compatible stuff but in different colors to match year/make of OEM color. In other words get the green one if you have a Mazda.
 
I used the Valvoline Asian formula in my old Mazda from the time it was new for 12 years.
 
Fantastic to see Peak Asian green. I'm sure over time others will follow - but it is clear that the automakers and the aftermarket coolant makers don't trust the DIY market to use de-ionized or distilled water for mixing. Ravenol and Motorcraft are the only sources (not even Mazda) to offer a concentrate for FL22 - crazy
 
Fantastic to see Peak Asian green. I'm sure over time others will follow - but it is clear that the automakers and the aftermarket coolant makers don't trust the DIY market to use de-ionized or distilled water for mixing.

Probably more like they want to charge $5 for 10c worth of distilled water :(
 
Fantastic to see Peak Asian green. I'm sure over time others will follow - but it is clear that the automakers and the aftermarket coolant makers don't trust the DIY market to use de-ionized or distilled water for mixing. Ravenol and Motorcraft are the only sources (not even Mazda) to offer a concentrate for FL22 - crazy

When I got the water pump replaced for Mazda 6, my mechanic actually hooked up the radiator to a machine to flush out OEM green stuff (plus any contaminants) and replace with PEAK Asian Blue. He mistakenly bought the wrong color but I'm "cool" with it. Same stuff different dye.
 
He mistakenly bought the wrong color but I'm "cool" with it. Same stuff different dye.
Agree. If you DIY it's not as easy to recover without the flush machine - and to get the water to coolant mix correct without an option for adding a concentrated version. But, 4-5 drain and refill cycles will get you there even if you only have the pre-diluted coolant.
 
I have 70K miles on my 2016 CX-5. So far, I have replaced the brake fluid and ATF. The dealer recommended coolant flush during next service at 75K miles. Does this make sense?

What is the recommended mileage and frequency for coolant flush?

Any other fluids I should change at 75K miles?
 
I have 70K miles on my 2016 CX-5. So far, I have replaced the brake fluid and ATF. The dealer recommended coolant flush during next service at 75K miles. Does this make sense?

What is the recommended mileage and frequency for coolant flush?

Any other fluids I should change at 75K miles?
Nope. Check your owners manual. It’s likely not due until 10 years or 120k miles. 5 years and 60k miles after that.
 
2020 CX-5, 2.5L Gas

I need to top off the coolant and I've got a jug of Prestone 50/50 Prediluted Antifreeze/Coolant that's got some left over from previous top offs of other vehicles. It's about 4 years old.

Ingredients are ethylene glycol (107-21-1), diethylene glycol (111-46-6), water (7732-18-5) and proprietary inhibitors (so called Core-Guard inhibitor package). The bottle states "safe for all makes, all models". It's green, mathching what's in the vehicle.

Two questions: Is this formulation appropriate? Would it have degraded over those 4 years?
 
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2020 CX-5, 2.5L Gas

I need to top off the coolant and I've got a jug of Prestone 50/50 Prediluted Antifreeze/Coolant that's got some left over from previous top offs of other vehicles. It's about 4 years old.

Ingredients are ethylene glycol (107-21-1), diethylene glycol (111-46-6), water (7732-18-5) and proprietary inhibitors (so called Core-Guard inhibitor package). The bottle states "safe for all makes, all models". It's green, mathching what's in the vehicle.

Two questions: Is this formulation appropriate? Would it have degraded over those 4 years?
If the coolant doesn’t say FL22, I wouldn’t use it to top off. In fact, I’ll use only OEM FL22 to mix with factory coolant as this long-life coolant will be in service for 10 years or 120K miles. I believe people even just use distilled water to top off which is still better than using an unknown type of coolant. I used to just ask my dealer to top off with OEM FL22 coolant each time I visit them for warranty service. Now I no longer have warranty and I need to get a gallon of OEM FL22 soon as the coolant level seems to keep droping a bit after the top-off.
 
If the coolant doesn’t say FL22, I wouldn’t use it to top off. In fact, I’ll use only OEM FL22 to mix with factory coolant as this long-life coolant will be in service for 10 years or 120K miles. I believe people even just use distilled water to top off which is still better than using an unknown type of coolant. I used to just ask my dealer to top off with OEM FL22 coolant each time I visit them for warranty service. Now I no longer have warranty and I need to get a gallon of OEM FL22 soon as the coolant level seems to keep droping a bit after the top-off.
Thanks. The Prestone doesn't say FL22. I'll have to pick up some Mazda OEM. Looks to be somewhat more expensive than other brands but for the little I'd expect to use it's better safe than sorry.

Any idea about whether the leftovers degrade over time sitting in the original jug?
 
Thanks. The Prestone doesn't say FL22. I'll have to pick up some Mazda OEM. Looks to be somewhat more expensive than other brands but for the little I'd expect to use it's better safe than sorry.

Any idea about whether the leftovers degrade over time sitting in the original jug?
When is your next service? If you get your serivce done at the dealer they usually top off the fluids. If you mention it to the service writer, they will absolutely top off the coolant
 
When is your next service? If you get your serivce done at the dealer they usually top off the fluids. If you mention it to the service writer, they will absolutely top off the coolant.
Mine was a dealer service loaner recently bought certified off that dealer's lot a long way from home, with the CarFax showing it had been serviced less than 100 miles before I bought it. I just didn't notice the coolant was just a scooch above the low mark when I inspected it. There's less than 500 miles on it since last service.

I'll get it handled soon. Service fastidiousness obviously varies from shop to shop. The most relevant passage in your post is "mention it to the service writer."

I've been popping the hood after every couple times out to see if the level moves down. Needless to say, rapid depletion of coolant could mean very bad things are happening inside the engine. So far, so good, "within manufacturer's acceptable tolerance", and they probably bake in a little extra wiggle room.
 
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I'm popping the hood after every couple times out to see if the level moves down. Needless to say, rapid depletion of coolant could mean very bad things are happening inside the engine. So far, so good.
The coolant on CX-5 from factory usually is below “F“ mark from factory based on member’s reports here. Mine was low too and asked the service advisor to top it off at the first chance stopping by my Mazda dealer. It’d been topped off at least 3 more times by the dealer in the first 3 years during new car warranty period. Feel like the coolant would drop gradually on CX-5 for some reason. Many people hated to get a whole gallon of expensive Mazda FL22 coolant just for topping off, and they settled for distilled water to top it off instead.
 
The coolant on CX-5 from factory usually is below “F“ mark from factory based on member’s reports here. Mine was low too and asked the service advisor to top it off at the first chance stopping by my Mazda dealer. It’d been topped off at least 3 more times by the dealer in the first 3 years during new car warranty period. Feel like the coolant would drop gradually on CX-5 for some reason. Many people hated to get a whole gallon of expensive Mazda FL22 coolant just for topping off, and they settled for distilled water to top it off instead.
With FL22, is normal operating procedure (what you'd get at the dealer in a complete coolant replacement) a 50/50 mix with distilled water as with other cars and types of coolant?

It's good to know Mazda ships 'em out low or they sink from high to low periodically, that once per year experience. I'll know what to look for. That 4 year old jug of Prestone I mentioned was used probably once per car since I bought it, a less frequent top off than you indicate.
 
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I’ve been topping off with a quart of Ravenol FL22 over the last couple of years. Shouldn’t drop below the L between now and when I need to replace the coolant.
 
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