Changing oil in a CX-5 Turbo. Did the salesguy blow smoke up my tailpipe?

Changing oil in a CX-5 Turbo. Did the salesguy blow smoke up my tailpipe?

Unobtanium said:
I did a bit of research on this, and you want a a full synthetic oil that has SN+, dexos 1 Gen 2, Ford WSS-M2C946-B1, ACEA A5/B5, Honda HTO-06 certs.

Mobil 1 EP 5-30 meets all of this and was my pick and what I plan to stick with for my CX5 Turbo.
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Since Mazda always recommends Castrol, have you checked Castrol EDGE 5W-30 full synthetic on certifications?
 
yrwei52 said:
Since Mazda always recommends Castrol, have you checked Castrol EDGE 5W-30 full synthetic on certifications?
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I'm looking into it. The certs on both meet the requirements of Mazda for this engine:

SKYACTIV-G 2.5T
Use SAE 5W-30 engine oil. If SAE 5W-30
engine oil is not available, use SAE 0W-30
or SAE 10W-30 engine oil.
The quality designation SM or SN, or
ILSAC must be on the label.
Click to expand...
 
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Use a name brand oil in 5w30 Synthetic oil such as Pennzoil Platinum, Mobil 1 or Castrols EDGE. Don't overthink this oil/filter thing. Ed
 
Avoidin Deer said:
Thanks for that.

So is there anywhere in Mazda literature I can find that reference to synthetic and to other such info? Man, if the "gotta fill the filter with oil" statement didn't scare me into having the dealer do routine maintenance, this kind of genuinely undocumented stuff will. I now have no confidence I'm not doing something bad. What else don't I know?
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Nothing to be scared of. Fill the filter or don't, won't hurt anything. Just make sure to use full synthetic oil. Changing oil on CX-5s is VERY easy to do.
 
Cliffs:

Mazda doesn't specify in the Owner's Manual to use full synthetic for the 2.5T, only 5W-30. Thus, using 5W-30 conventional oil would not affect your warranty. With that said, full synthetic is highly recommended for any and all forced-induction engines, so use a certified 5W-30 full synthetic if you can.

The 2.5T does indeed benefit from higher octane (89, 91, 93) fuel, but only at 4k RPM and up.

Personally I use Shell 91 in my CX-9 as it's the only easily accessible ethanol-free fuel I can find. The ECU retards the timing based on the fuel you put into it (i.e. at 93 it is running at max potential, at 87 it is running with the timing retarded to prevent engine knock). This is how I've always thought it works, but someone please correct me if I'm wrong.
 
cz5gt said:
The graph shows 2 red lines - torque and horse power in paralell.
fully red lines are with 87. the grey extensions are how it changes with higher octane.

There are other benefits for 91/93 not just torque but for the average driver it probably would not matter.
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Since I began my search for a new car and saw everything was Direct Inject, I've done a bit of reading. There are some who claim that higher octane gas helps prevent/lessen carbon buildup on the valves, and that even though the gas does not wash across the intake valve, using Top Tier fuel also helps.
 
ColoradoDriver said:
Nothing to be scared of. Fill the filter or don't, won't hurt anything. Just make sure to use full synthetic oil. Changing oil on CX-5s is VERY easy to do.
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Yeh, I'm not worried about the process of changing my oil, I'm sort of angry that I cannot rely on my owner's manual as THE source for accurate information.

But if that's how it is, I'm glad I now know to not take it on face value.
 
Avoidin Deer said:
Yeh, I'm not worried about the process of changing my oil, I'm sort of angry that I cannot rely on my owner's manual as THE source for accurate information.

But if that's how it is, I'm glad I now know to not take it on face value.
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If nothing else you have found the forum with folks with a wealth of experience with CX-5s over the years.

What the manual lacks in precision, many DIYers on here can chime in when you have questions.

My opinion is that the CX-5 is a VERY easy to maintain vehicle.
 
Avoidin Deer said:
Since I began my search for a new car and saw everything was Direct Inject, I've done a bit of reading. There are some who claim that higher octane gas helps prevent/lessen carbon buildup on the valves, and that even though the gas does not wash across the intake valve, using Top Tier fuel also helps.
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I only use TT, ethanol free.

I used whatever cheap s*** I could find in my lat CX5, and it had a catastrophic fuel system failure at 106K miles. Related? I cannot say.
 
I went with Mobile 1 EP 5-30 this AM because it checked all the right boxes, has a proven track record in TDI engines, and allegedly has very low NOACK and Ca.
 
Does anyone have a line on the Mazda moly/filter/crush washer here in Canada? Other then buying it from the dealer? I got 3100kms on my 2019 gt turbo and been loving every second of it. Was debating doing first change at 5000km depending on the colour of oil from the dip stick. Is that a waste or should I just do 8000km reg schedule change.
 
I think a lot of people do the first oil change a little early to get rid of any contaminants/debris from the "engine break-in" period. I did my first oil change just a little early at 7000 km. No harm in doing it at 5000 km, IMO.
 
ceric said:
...The advisor told me that, they would lose money with that price...
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B.S. Usually when businesses say we "would lose money" they mean they wouldn't earn what they are accustomed to.

There is no way their marginal costs for one incremental oil change is more than $49.

If they provided all of their oil changes at $49 and had similar margins on their other services, they wouldn't be able to sustain the big showrooms, greeters, and other crap along with their profit margins and their business model would be threatened. But they have no inherent entitlement to making a bunch of profit.
 
sm1ke said:
I think a lot of people do the first oil change a little early to get rid of any contaminants/debris from the "engine break-in" period. I did my first oil change just a little early at 7000 km. No harm in doing it at 5000 km, IMO.
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I'm leaning that way myself.

"Break In" is at 600 miles/1,000KM...or at least the manual uses that range to not over-rev/tow/use extended-trip cruise control (drive long distances at a constant speed).

I'll likely change it at 1,000 miles/1,600km or so.

I'm not sure exactly what I might be gaining, but there's nothing to lose.
 
I read an article recently that pretty much said the early first oil change thing is another one of those myths that need to go. Modern engines are built to very exact specifications today and debris and "metal shavings" in the oil (what our dads would call it back in the day) just don't happen today.
 
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7eregrine said:
I read an article recently that pretty much said the early first oil change thing is another one of those myths that need to do. Modern engines are built to very exact specifications today and debris and "metal shavings" in the oil (what our dads would call it back in the day) just don't happen today.
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My reason for doing it was because I don't know what Mazda put in there, and I want a good low NOACK, low Ca full synthetic.
 
Changing oil in a CX-5 Turbo. Did the salesguy blow smoke up my tailpipe?

Avoidin Deer said:
I'm leaning that way myself.

"Break In" is at 600 miles/1,000KM...or at least the manual uses that range to not over-rev/tow/use extended-trip cruise control (drive long distances at a constant speed).

I'll likely change it at 1,000 miles/1,600km or so.

I'm not sure exactly what I might be gaining, but there's nothing to lose.
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No, you still lose money by changing oil too early. ;) It's also producing more used oil which is an environmental hazard.

7eregrine said it correctly, modern engines are built to very exact specifications today and debris and metal shavings in the oil is just the thing in the past. Some extra metal contents would show up in the used oil analysis, but it's basically no harm to our engine. Many auto makers use special break-in oil, such as Honda, who specifically stated in the owner's manual that don't change the factory oil early. Factory oil Mazda uses has very high content of molybdenum where most other oils have much less. I personally kept my factory oil for 5,000 miles, or at 30% oil life left based on oil life monitor. This should be a good compromise between changing factory oil early and changing oil at scheduled mileage.
 
Jpass said:
Does anyone have a line on the Mazda moly/filter/crush washer here in Canada? Other then buying it from the dealer? I got 3100kms on my 2019 gt turbo and been loving every second of it. Was debating doing first change at 5000km depending on the colour of oil from the dip stick. Is that a waste or should I just do 8000km reg schedule change.
Click to expand...

There is no Mazda Moly for you.
 
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