To OP, since you said the new tires are more bouncier than the old, what kind the new tires (brand、size) you just put on? And what is the tire pressure?
Yokohama Avid Ascend
To OP, since you said the new tires are more bouncier than the old, what kind the new tires (brand、size) you just put on? And what is the tire pressure?
OP didn't say the model year and trim level of his 2.0L AWD CX-5. I believe his should be early 2013~2014 CX-5 Sport or Touring? This means $800 for a set of 225/65R17 is more expensive than you thought.
BTW with your standard OP should be very disappointed as for early CX-5's there're problems on front lower control-arm bushing, and TSBs were issued to replace those lower control arms.
A responsible alignment shop sush as BrakePlus I like to use will give you an alignment printout showing before and after settings. If all the settings including camber in suspicion are all within specs (in green on the printout) then the adjustments somehow has fixed your camber issue. Your mechanic confused you on saying "suspension components". Getting new struts and/or shocks shouldn't affect the alignment under most circumstances unless the mechanic did something unnecessarily. IMO I certainly wouldn't call replacing struts and shocks as "new suspension", certainly wouldn't say the suspension caused the bald tire on inner side, and you need new struts and shocks to fix that! As bad struts and shocks cause cupped wear, not the wear like yours.So yeah - thats my dilemma. Wondering if the suspension caused the bald tire. He didnt say that, but suggested getting new suspension since Im keeping it 100k more miles.... which makes sense. We have a good relationship so I think if struts were causing the alignment issue he would have said as much.
Just like I guessed.2013 cx5 Touring AWD 2.0L L4 DOHC 16V
JM3KE4CE4
If there is a TSB for suspension out on this - I would be very interested to know.
Still curious what brand、model、and size of your new tires? And what is your tire pressure?
A responsible alignment shop sush as BrakePlus I like to use will give you an alignment printout showing before and after settings. If all the settings including camber in suspicion are all within specs (in green on the printout) then the adjustments somehow has fixed your camber issue. Your mechanic confused you on saying "suspension components". Getting new struts and/or shocks shouldn't affect the alignment under most circumstances unless the mechanic did something unnecessarily. IMO I certainly wouldn't call replacing struts and shocks as "new suspension", certainly wouldn't say the suspension caused the bald tire on inner side, and you need new struts and shocks to fix that! As bad struts and shocks cause cupped wear, not the wear like yours.
Struts and shocks are not like barkes, they can wait to get replaced unless there're signs of failure. And in your situation I can't see any signs of failure.
Attached is the alignment printout. I just found it on the seat lol.
meh, that thrust angle sucks. Even though it's in the green I prefer thrust angle to be as close to 0.00 as humanly possible. That front toe out I'm sure is definitely what caused the abnormal tire wear, although I would have expected both front tires to be worn like that. Odd that it was only one tire.
I replaced rear shocks at 65K and the front struts at 82K. Rear shocks were blown due to a case of carrying too much weight in the back one time (bunch of lumber and concrete for a fence repair), and then I did the fronts when I had the money. Cost less than $300 in parts for KYB GR-2 units, plus new dust boots and bump stops. Then I got the lifetime Firestone alignment service for ~$170, which means I can take it back in every time I rotate the tires in the future.