2013~2016 103k miles - shocks and struts replacement

bob ross

Member
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Mazda CX-5 AWD 2.0L
Do they need to be replaced if I just put 4 new tires on? Am I just being cheap and fooling myself? $800 installed seems reasonable.

Little info out there on this.
 
If you don't have any symptoms of failure, why bother?
You definitely should check the alignment, however.
 
Mechanic who just did the tires suggestion after a discussion of him asking if I was keeping it another 100k miles.... which is the plan. After new tires and alignment ride feels bouncy but not dangerous or uncomfortable. No loud clunk on potholes.

How do I check alignment? 1 tire was bald on inside, before I replaced with new ones.... so thinking maybe the old suspension caused it?
 
Mechanic who just did the tires suggestion after a discussion of him asking if I was keeping it another 100k miles.... which is the plan. After new tires and alignment ride feels bouncy but not dangerous or uncomfortable. No loud clunk on potholes.

How do I check alignment? 1 tire was bald on inside, before I replaced with new ones.... so thinking maybe the old suspension caused it?

In my humble opinion, the suspension is a big part of what makes a Mazda a Mazda. On my past Mazda's, the sports cars shocks and struts were almost always done by ~35k miles, and the other standard Mazda cars were all due by around 60-75k miles.

I am currently at 40k miles on our CX5 and I was just pricing shocks and struts to get prepared.
 
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I am at 120k miles and my shocks and struts are fine. Used, yes. But fine. I see no need to change them until they are toast.
 
One tire and only inside was bald? Suspect alignment.
However, if you are going to replace suspension parts you'll need an alignment after anyway.
My opinion: If you really intend on keeping the car for another 100K miles then replace worn out parts. Assuming you have the money why not enjoy driving with fresh suspension? If money is tight then just get the alignment (to protect your new tires) and wait for obvious suspension parts failure.
Also you are right: $800 for new shocks/struts installed is very reasonable. Just confirm OEM or OEM quality parts will be used. Otherwise you'll end up spending the money and will not get the new car handling you are hoping for.
 
Bouncy would be enough to make me replace them. Tire wear indicates that you definitely need alignment, but could also indicate damage suspension parts.

So if you're going to replace them, do that first, then get aligned. But before you replace them get someone who knows suspension to examine everything.

"You" check the alignment by taking it to a shop or dealer. :)
 
In my humble opinion, the suspension is a big part of what makes a Mazda a Mazda. On my past Mazda's, the sports cars shocks and struts were almost always done by ~35k miles, and the other standard Mazda cars were all due by around 60-75k miles.

I am currently at 40k miles on our CX5 and I was just pricing shocks and struts to get prepared.

35K seems so early. Do you drive real hard? Roads shouldn't be too bad in CA.
But I agree wholeheartedly that the suspension is key, and when it starts to feel sloppy, replacement is in order.
 
I am at 120k miles and my shocks and struts are fine. Used, yes. But fine. I see no need to change them until they are toast.

My noob question of the day...

78k almost 79k miles now. How does one know when these are toast?
 
One tire and only inside was bald? Suspect alignment.
However, if you are going to replace suspension parts you'll need an alignment after anyway.
My opinion: If you really intend on keeping the car for another 100K miles then replace worn out parts. Assuming you have the money why not enjoy driving with fresh suspension? If money is tight then just get the alignment (to protect your new tires) and wait for obvious suspension parts failure.
Also you are right: $800 for new shocks/struts installed is very reasonable. Just confirm OEM or OEM quality parts will be used. Otherwise you'll end up spending the money and will not get the new car handling you are hoping for.

Thank you for the advice (and others). We have a great mechanic. They warranty everything 1 year no matter what and I trust him completely.... been going to him for 15 years. Just paid 800 for the new tires so 1600 was a bit of a stretch this month considering I have 1 year of payments left. Maybe next month after refund check, but main concern was if suspension would ruin the new tires. Rotations free and he does my oil that I bring to him with OEM filter (love this shop).

As far as OEM or a particular brand? He was going to do them same day he did the tires so sounds like they have an aftermarket solution at the ready. I dont know much about these parts. Was wondering if I should specify or buy a certain brand. Hell put stuff in for me that I buy. Maybe thats why his cost was more reasonable? Mazda service quoted me 440 shocks, 720 struts and 100 alignment.

I guess the only bummer is now Ill have to pay for the alignment again, unless he gives me a break since I just got tires. Im sure his guy is going to be like I just had everything off last month that nit-wit! Could have replaced them then! I know I hate doing things twice even if they pay me.
 
Thank you for the advice (and others). We have a great mechanic. They warranty everything 1 year no matter what and I trust him completely.... been going to him for 15 years. Just paid 800 for the new tires so 1600 was a bit of a stretch this month considering I have 1 year of payments left. Maybe next month after refund check, but main concern was if suspension would ruin the new tires. Rotations free and he does my oil that I bring to him with OEM filter (love this shop).

As far as OEM or a particular brand? He was going to do them same day he did the tires so sounds like they have an aftermarket solution at the ready. I don*t know much about these parts. Was wondering if I should specify or buy a certain brand. He*ll put stuff in for me that I buy. Maybe that*s why his cost was more reasonable? Mazda service quoted me 440 shocks, 720 struts and 100 alignment.

I guess the only bummer is now I*ll have to pay for the alignment again, unless he gives me a break since I just got tires. I*m sure his guy is going to be like *I just had everything off last month that nit-wit! Could have replaced them then!* I know I hate doing things twice even if they pay me.

Lots of aftermarket choices available already, KYB, Koni, Monroe, etc.

Basically it is up to you... Do you want to wait until they FAIL, or do you want to replace them while they are WORN? Sure shocks and struts can make it way beyond 100k miles before FAILING, however, without a doubt, they are WORN and offering reduced function after ~60k miles.

I feel that this video is a well done and unbiased description to help decide your course of action.
[video]https://www.kyb.com/kyb-tv/tell-me-when-to-replace-shocks-struts/[/video]
 
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35K seems so early. Do you drive real hard? Roads shouldn't be too bad in CA.
But I agree wholeheartedly that the suspension is key, and when it starts to feel sloppy, replacement is in order.

The 35k mile swaps were on things like Miata's, RX-7's, etc. I want to enjoy the best handling, performance, emergency maneuvering and ride available.
 
1 tire bald needs alignment. If you are a price conscious buyer forget the suspension for a year - keep an eye on the bald tire to see how it wears and drive cautiously.
800 for 4 tires is a bit too much unless they are $150 a pop with lifetime hazard warranty and rotations.
If a Mazda needs suspension parts under 100K miles (minimum) that's a huge fail. 175K miles - yeah that is good and 150K is my expectation. This is an eco car and for the first 120K miles - all I want to do is oil / Tx oil / Tires / Brakes. That's it, I might do a carbon buildup cleaning service but only if it is severe. On my second car - Its only oil and tires + brakes till 150K then its sayonara.
 
Yeah - thats was kinda my logic kaps, but discussion with LT mechanic was whether I want to keep the car 100k more miles.... so it seems expectation is the suspension lasts 100k so why not change it now so I have a nice ride considering Ill probably be getting something new in 5 years after 200k miles. Basically just robbing myself of 30-40k miles of a nicer ride. Decisions, decisions...

Tires were under 640 installed - I had a sway bar replaced too. Lifetime rotations.
 
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If you can afford it, I would replace the struts now. That way you get to enjoy it for a longer time and the cost of the struts would be better spent.

Versus waiting until they fail, then replacing the struts then eventually trading in the car for something else. You would have driven the car on new struts for less miles but still paid the same amount for the struts.
 
Do they need to be replaced if I just put 4 new tires on? Am I just being cheap and fooling myself? $800 installed seems reasonable.

Little info out there on this.
I agree with what shadonoz has said, if you don't have any symptoms of failure, such as fluid leak or failed on traditional "bouncing test", why bother?

However, if you plan to keep your CX-5 for another 100K miles, replacing all struts and shocks may not be a bad idea right now. But you can always wait a little longer to get those replaced if you don't want to spend more money at this time.

Which tire was bald on inside? If tires never got rotated or you just bought this CX-5, the suspension of that particular corner is having too much negative camber setting. Unfortunately the camber on CX-5 is not adjustable, which means that corner hit something in the past bended the suspension parts a bit. If it's the front there's aftermarket camber adjustment kit available. In any event only the readout from newer and more sophisticated alignment machine can tell what is the best step you should do next.

I could be wrong but somehow I got feeling that when you said you've done the alignment after you put a set of new tires at the shop you trust, you really meant you've done the tire/wheel balancing? Most independent mechanics they don't have expensive alignment machine in their shop, and those alignment machines also require frequent calibration and software updates by manufacture.

I recently replaced all 4 struts on my 1998 Honda CR-V just because I was curious if the original struts are still functional after 21 years and 183K miles of service. They all are still very tight and functional and I could leave them in the CR-V for another ??K miles! I found other suspension parts are more vulnerable such as rubber boots on every front suspension parts as well as ball joints themselves and tie-rod ends. Make sure to have your mechanic checking any loose or broken suspension parts first then consider spending money on struts and shocks.
 
To OP, since you said the new tires are more bouncier than the old, what kind the new tires (brand、size) you just put on? And what is the tire pressure?
 
Good Info.

I could be wrong but somehow I got feeling that when you said you've done the alignment after you put a set of new tires at the shop you trust, you really meant you've done the tire/wheel balancing? Most independent mechanics they don't have expensive alignment machine in their shop, and those alignment machines also require frequent calibration and software updates by manufacture.

So I went to the shop cause of a clunk and bad handling, and they fixed a broken sway bar link left side and replaced right side too. I told him car was pulling to left and he said 1 tire was bald on inside so suggested replacement. I took him up on that since tires are 70k miles and traction was degrading. They did a balance and computerized alignment on the new tires. They are a 6 bay garage and warranty labor 1 year, so I assume the machine is good.

So yeah - thats my dilemma. Wondering if the suspension caused the bald tire. He didnt say that, but suggested getting new suspension since Im keeping it 100k more miles.... which makes sense. We have a good relationship so I think if struts were causing the alignment issue he would have said as much. To another posters point - why not change it if its gonna fail sooner or later and I should get the most miles out of it as I can to 200k

I know its a personal decision that cant be answered by anyone but myself, but the banter here is very helpful. Thanks.
 
1 tire bald needs alignment. If you are a price conscious buyer forget the suspension for a year - keep an eye on the bald tire to see how it wears and drive cautiously.
800 for 4 tires is a bit too much unless they are $150 a pop with lifetime hazard warranty and rotations.
If a Mazda needs suspension parts under 100K miles (minimum) that's a huge fail. 175K miles - yeah that is good and 150K is my expectation. This is an eco car and for the first 120K miles - all I want to do is oil / Tx oil / Tires / Brakes. That's it, I might do a carbon buildup cleaning service but only if it is severe. On my second car - Its only oil and tires + brakes till 150K then its sayonara.
OP didn't say the model year and trim level of his 2.0L AWD CX-5. I believe his should be early 2013~2014 CX-5 Sport or Touring? This means $800 for a set of 225/65R17 is more expensive than you thought.

BTW with your standard OP should be very disappointed as for early CX-5's there're problems on front lower control-arm bushing, and TSBs were issued to replace those lower control arms.
 
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