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Thread: $300 for plugs - really??

  1. #16
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    Thanks for the info.
    I personally prefer OEM parts (except for tires, haha). I learned my lesson a long time ago with oil filters and my B2200.
    I had also read the other thread and I certainly don't owe this car anything, so I have no problem doing maintenance on it. It just seemed a bit steep for just plugs, even with the cost of them. Shop hourly rate is $130, so pretty close to a US $95.
    My ex has the tools and the work space, which is why the car has been dealer maintained all it's life. Looks like it will stay that way, at least for now.

  2. #17
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    You can get complete pads/,hardware on Ebay for 150usd or less. I have a set I'm replacing with before a trip next week. Paid $136. Saw another one now for 101$. I had ordered a bbk from CS but it was backordered so I ended up canceling

  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by madar View Post
    ...and a torque wrench.
    Nah, not for this application. Just a bit of experience turning wrenches and some common sense.

  4. #19
    i-ACTIV AWD Aficionado Kedis82ZE8's Avatar
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    Tightening torque.. not much


    15*20 Nm {1.6*2.0 kgfm, 12*14 ftlbf}
    '15 CX-5 GT 2.5L w/tech package - 49K Miles / '07 Infiniti G35x / '12 Lexus GX 460 / '00 Wrangler TJ 4.0L

  5. #20
    Registered Member RepeatMazda's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by Studum View Post
    If you're out of warranty you have the option of buying the parts elsewhere and doing them yourself.
    Even if you're still covered by warranty you have the option to buy parts elsewhere and do yourself or take to an independent mechanic. Just keep your receipts and a record of when the work was completed.
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  6. #21
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    Don't forget the anti-seize for the threads, makes life easier in 100K....
    What makes your life worth living?
    2014 Grand Touring dirt bike/street bike hauler and grocery getter

  7. #22
    ZOOOOOOOOOM ZOOOOOOOOOOOM mazdadude's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by TTBadDog View Post
    Don't forget the anti-seize for the threads, makes life easier in 100K....
    Both NGK and ND specifically warn AGAINST using anti-seize on the threads. It is not recommended.
    Mazda's I have owned over the years. (boom07)
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  8. #23
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    No anti seize on my oem plugs. Came out fine at around 80k mi or whatever.

  9. #24
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    You have to inspect the new plug to see if it has a coated thread.
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  10. #25
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    I stand corrected but I will continue to use an anti-seize product.
    https://www.driven2automotive.com/bl...g-spark-plugs/
    From what I gather reading between the lines recommendation is that they already have a thread protection on plug. In other applications ( harsh environment) the plugs still get corroded and diffucult to remove over years. Main reason NOT to use anti-seize is we are too stupid to torque properly. If you know what you are doing anti-seize can't hurt. May not be needed in an engine bay with a good plug boot but it won't hurt. My expierence comes from Supercharged boat BBC boat engines (read high heat cycles), Off road trucks (mud water) and dirt bikes. Either way overtight is not good. You should be able to feel the crush washer or the change in rate or torque vs rotaion on a tapered seat and know when is when. IMHO an anti-sezie is good preventative for long term removal success. Do as you wish.
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  11. #26
    ZOOOOOOOOOM ZOOOOOOOOOOOM mazdadude's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by TTBadDog View Post
    I stand corrected but I will continue to use an anti-seize product.
    https://www.driven2automotive.com/bl...g-spark-plugs/
    From what I gather reading between the lines recommendation is that they already have a thread protection on plug. In other applications ( harsh environment) the plugs still get corroded and diffucult to remove over years. Main reason NOT to use anti-seize is we are too stupid to torque properly. If you know what you are doing anti-seize can't hurt. May not be needed in an engine bay with a good plug boot but it won't hurt. My expierence comes from Supercharged boat BBC boat engines (read high heat cycles), Off road trucks (mud water) and dirt bikes. Either way overtight is not good. You should be able to feel the crush washer or the change in rate or torque vs rotaion on a tapered seat and know when is when. IMHO an anti-sezie is good preventative for long term removal success. Do as you wish.
    I agree, there are some great applications for it as you mentioned, and I always used anti-seize in the past on older cars, especially on the softer uncoated plugs like used by AC Delco or Autolite.

    I can only imagine how much fun a BBC boat engine corroded plug change might be.
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  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by TTBadDog View Post
    I stand corrected but I will continue to use an anti-seize product.
    https://www.driven2automotive.com/bl...g-spark-plugs/
    From what I gather reading between the lines recommendation is that they already have a thread protection on plug. In other applications ( harsh environment) the plugs still get corroded and diffucult to remove over years. Main reason NOT to use anti-seize is we are too stupid to torque properly. If you know what you are doing anti-seize can't hurt. May not be needed in an engine bay with a good plug boot but it won't hurt. My expierence comes from Supercharged boat BBC boat engines (read high heat cycles), Off road trucks (mud water) and dirt bikes. Either way overtight is not good. You should be able to feel the crush washer or the change in rate or torque vs rotaion on a tapered seat and know when is when. IMHO an anti-sezie is good preventative for long term removal success. Do as you wish.
    If you use this, I strongly recommend not using a torque wrench. You will need to torque-to-angle, or torque until the crush-washer type apparatus is flat, and then no more, because a torque wrench will no-longer give meaningful data for this spec.

  13. #28
    i-ACTIV AWD Aficionado Kedis82ZE8's Avatar
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    25% less torque with anti-seize

    https://www.antiseize.com/PDFs/torqu...ifications.pdf

    12 to 14 ftlbf without anti-seize

    9 to 10.5 ftlbf w/anti-seize

    Might be easier using a 1/4 inch torque wrench at inch/lbs at those numbers...

    108 in lbf - 126 in lbf

    https://www.harborfreight.com/14-in-...nch-61277.html

    You may need adapters if your sockets don't match.
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  14. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kedis82ZE8 View Post
    25% less torque with anti-seize

    https://www.antiseize.com/PDFs/torqu...ifications.pdf

    12 to 14 ftlbf without anti-seize

    9 to 10.5 ftlbf w/anti-seize

    Might be easier using a 1/4 inch torque wrench at inch/lbs at those numbers...

    108 in lbf - 126 in lbf

    https://www.harborfreight.com/14-in-...nch-61277.html

    You may need adapters if your sockets don't match.
    Lots of factors in that. Id just go until the crush washer is flat, regardless of torque required, and leave it at that.

  15. #30
    Registered Member TANKGUNNER's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by ColoradoDriver View Post
    Get the NGK plugs (the OEM plugs I ordered from Med Center Mazda for $100 had the NGK model numbers on it!) for $50. Take 30 minutes and do it yourself.

    Problem solved.
    you got it ! And order your $12.99 spark plug socket from Amazon and its cake. It's a 14mm thin-wall.
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