First oil change notes

I changed my oil today and these are what I noted:
The oil registered full when I got the car, and the oil level was maybe 1/16 lower than full today.
I had bought a hex ratchet but it turns out that mine has a 17mm bolt.
I pulled my car up on ramps, and the plastic body work almost touched the ramp. I think it will be better to use 4" high homemade wood ramps.
I didn't see any metal flakes in the oil, so it was not necessary to change it so early. It was very dark though which I think is normal.
The Japan filter on the car has a slightly larger diameter than the OEM Thailand filter has, and has round hole. The Thailand one has slots.
The motor and oil fill is so far back, plus it being on ramps, I had to really lean over to pour in the new oil. I was wearing soft cloths so no worry of scratching the nose.
The drain plug wasn't cranked on too tight, nor was the filter cranked on too tight.
One push pin is fatter than the other two, it goes in a larger hole in the plastic.
There was some surface rust on some metal parts near the front brakes, I hit those with fluid film.

Thanks for sharing your first oil change experience. What was the mileage on odometer when you did your first oil change, and when was your 2018 CX-5 assembled? And how many miles of oil life left indicated by your Flexible oil change interval monitor?

Yeah apparently Mazda has changed oil drain plug from Allen hex key bolt to traditional 17mm hex bolt starting 2018 CX-5 with cylinder deactivation. It'd be interesting to find out if Mazda has also changed the drain plug on 2.5T and ATF drain plug.

"One push pin is fatter than the other two, it goes in a larger hole in the plastic." I have never noticed this on my 2016 CX-5. Could this be a new change on 2018 CX-5 2.5L with cylinder deactivation too?

Its a tight squeeze, but Ive started doing my oil changes with my CX5 on the garage floor without ramps. Havent banged my head yet, lol, but getting my fat head in and out of there takes a few extra seconds without ramps. I fit under my 2013 and my mother in laws 2018. I too was surprised to find a bolt oil plug there instead of a hex key plug like on my 2013.

I havent taken a look yet at the 2018 ATF drain plug. Ill have to see if that changed the next time I do the oil on it.

yrwei52 said:

Thanks for sharing your first oil change experience. What was the mileage on odometer when you did your first oil change, and when was your 2018 CX-5 assembled? And how many miles of oil life left indicated by your Flexible oil change interval monitor?

Yeah apparently Mazda has changed oil drain plug from Allen hex key bolt to traditional 17mm hex bolt starting 2018 CX-5 with cylinder deactivation. It'd be interesting to find out if Mazda has also changed the drain plug on 2.5T and ATF drain plug.

"One push pin is fatter than the other two, it goes in a larger hole in the plastic." I have never noticed this on my 2016 CX-5. Could this be a new change on 2018 CX-5 2.5L with cylinder deactivation too?

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It had ~1,200 miles. Built in August 2018. There are three push pins and two screws that hold the access panel, one push pin just had to be different.

Okay another thing about the oil change. I had checked the dip stick when I first got it, and the oil level was right on full. After putting in 5 quarts today, the oil level is exactly between the full and low marks. The manual says it takes 4.8 quarts of oil. Is the manual wrong? Is the dipstick wrong? Did the factory put in too much oil?

is yours AWD?
the AWD takes ~0.2 quarts more if I remember.

MyFirstMazda said:

Okay another thing about the oil change. I had checked the dip stick when I first got it, and the oil level was right on full. After putting in 5 quarts today, the oil level is exactly between the full and low marks. The manual says it takes 4.8 quarts of oil. Is the manual wrong? Is the dipstick wrong? Did the factory put in too much oil?

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Every DIYer getting a first new Mazda CX-5 will have the same question including me. I believe the manual on engine oil capacity is wrong, so as the gear oil capacity on rear differential. If you empty old oil completely without Fumoto valve, you'll need 5.3 quarts, not 4.8 quarts specified in owner's manual, to make oil level reaching to "Full" mark on dipstick.

My special-ordered brand new 2016 CX-5 just unloaded from truck had oil level at ⅔ between Add and Full marks. I actually checked a couple of brand new CX-5's at the time just for this matter, and the oil level were all the same. I also bought a bottle of Mazda moly oil to top off as I didn't want mix factory moly oil with my dealer's bulk oil. I also checked show-room CX-5 from time to time when I visited my dealer for warranty service, again they're all at the same level. My conclusion is Mazda specifically fill the oil at that level from factory, for the reason of saving money or trying to be different from everybody else on definition of Full mark.

My Mazda dealer apparently is not willing to top-off the oil to Full mark for EVERY new CX-5 during new car inspection. The same on engine coolant and rear differential gear oil. Every member here who bothered to check all found they're low from factory. Some also reported the ATF is low from Full mark from factory too. And your dealer might do a good job topping off your oil during new car inspection, hence the oil level was full when you picked up your new CX-5.

BTW most DIYers here simply pour in 5 quarts of fresh oil and call it a day leaving the oil level at ⅔ between Add and Full marks.

yrwei52 said:

Every DIYer getting a first new Mazda CX-5 will have the same question including me. I believe the manual on engine oil capacity is wrong, so as the gear oil capacity on rear differential. If you empty old oil completely without Fumoto valve, you'll need 5.3 quarts, not 4.8 quarts specified in owner's manual, to make oil level reaching to "Full" mark on dipstick.

My special-ordered brand new 2016 CX-5 just unloaded from truck had oil level at * between Add and Full marks. I actually checked a couple of brand new CX-5's at the time just for this matter, and the oil level were all the same. I also bought a bottle of Mazda moly oil to top off as I didn't want mix factory moly oil with my dealer's bulk oil. I also checked show-room CX-5 from time to time when I visited my dealer for warranty service, again they're all at the same level. My conclusion is Mazda specifically fill the oil at that level from factory, for the reason of saving money or trying to be different from everybody else on definition of Full mark.

My Mazda dealer apparently is not willing to top-off the oil to Full mark for EVERY new CX-5 during new car inspection. The same on engine coolant and rear differential gear oil. Every member here who bothered to check all found they're low from factory. Some also reported the ATF is low from Full mark from factory too. And your dealer might do a good job topping off your oil during new car inspection, hence the oil level was full when you picked up your new CX-5.

BTW most DIYers here simply pour in 5 quarts of fresh oil and call it a day leaving the oil level at * between Add and Full marks.

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Thank you. My dealership must have topped it off.
It will waste money to buy another quart only to use a little less than half. I might do it though, since the car is new and it bothers me. To bad oil companies don't sell 1/10th bottles too. Then we could buy the exact amount without paying for a full quart.

yes I was thinking the same until I found spec deck for 2018 on the internet.

it shows
-Engine Oil (U.S. quarts/L) 4.5 / 4.3
assuming without filter.
-Engine Coolant (U.S. quarts/L)7.8 / 7.4

first is awd, then fwd.

Also it doesnt say this is on the max of the oilstick.They just say need this. Thats it I do agree there are some small discrepancies though but it should not matter much.

cz5gt said:

is yours AWD?
the AWD takes ~0.2 quarts more if I remember.

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No, FWD and AWD CX-5 make no difference on oil capacity. Fuel tank capacity and final gear ratio are different between the two however.

cz5gt said:

yes I was thinking the same until I found spec deck for 2018 on the internet.

it shows
-Engine Oil (U.S. quarts/L) 4.5 / 4.3
assuming without filter.
-Engine Coolant (U.S. quarts/L)7.8 / 7.4

first is awd, then fwd.

Also it doesnt say this is on the max of the oilstick. They just say need this. Thats it I do agree there are some small discrepancies though but it should not matter much.

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No, the first number is U.S quarts and the second number is liters. Since a liter is slightly larger than a quart (1 liter = 1.057 quart) 4.5 quarts = 4.3 liters.

cz5gt said:

yes I was thinking the same until I found spec deck for 2018 on the internet.

it shows
-Engine Oil (U.S. quarts/L) 4.5 / 4.3
assuming without filter.
-Engine Coolant (U.S. quarts/L)7.8 / 7.4

first is awd, then fwd.

Also it doesnt say this is on the max of the oilstick.They just say need this. Thats it I do agree there are some small discrepancies though but it should not matter much.

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cz5gt your numbers are all messed up. From page 9-5 of the manual, the 2.5L engine takes 4.5L with filter replaced, or 4.3L with out replacing the filter.
4.5L = 4.8 quarts, 4.3L = 4.5 quarts.
The 2.5L engine is in both FWD and AWD models.

To get the .3 of the 5.3 quarts, using a measuring cup, is 9.6 fluid oz, or 283.906ML or 283.906CC. 275ml is close enough. And remember, fluid oz is volume you can't weigh the oil with a scale to get 9.6 oz.

cz5gt said:

yes I was thinking the same until I found spec deck for 2018 on the internet.

it shows
-Engine Oil (U.S. quarts/L) 4.5 / 4.3
assuming without filter.
-Engine Coolant (U.S. quarts/L)7.8 / 7.4

first is awd, then fwd.

Also it doesnt say this is on the max of the oilstick.They just say need this. Thats it I do agree there are some small discrepancies though but it should not matter much.

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Internet has plenty of false information and here's correct fluid capacity from 2017 CX-5 owner's manual:

Please NOTE that it says APPROXIMATE fill. I dump in a 5 quart jug and the oil level comes up to about 1/8 inch below the full mark so I call that good-to-go. Ed

erhayes said:

Please NOTE that it says APPROXIMATE fill. I dump in a 5 quart jug and the oil level comes up to about 1/8 inch below the full mark so I call that good-to-go. Ed

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Smart man on this subject. No worries, and won*t hurt a thing...

NelsonLewis said:

Smart man on this subject. No worries, and won*t hurt a thing...

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...just when you thought we ran out of dead horses..(deadhorse

MyFirstMazda said:

It had ~1,200 miles. Built in August 2018. There are three push pins and two screws that hold the access panel, one push pin just had to be different.

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Well, maybe early mileage wise, but that was about 6 months ago, so you were due for a change anyway.

Most of us DIYers just buy a 5 qt. jug of full synthetic at Walmart and call it good. Oil does not necessarily need to be at the full mark hole on the dipstick. As long as the oil level stays between the two holes on the dipstick between oil changes, you are good to go. Use 5 qts., monitor oil levels and go from there.

ColoradoDriver said:

Well, maybe early mileage wise, but that was about 6 months ago, so you were due for a change anyway.

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If OP went for the factory default Flexible OCI, itd be either up to 7,500 miles or 12 months from assembly date when the oil change notice would be displayed. Thiss all from the old days that the factory recommended OCI for the factory-fill is 1,000 miles. It wont hurt anything other than our pocket as long as the factory-fill is not special break-in oil like Hondas, or on our CX-5 changing with Mazda moly oil as we have found out factory-fill is the Mazda moly. But from environmental point of view, we should maximize the oil life as much as possible, and the long OCI with oil life monitor was introduced in Europe 20+ years ago. My 2000 BMW 528i has up to 17,500-mile OCI from oil life monitor of course I couldnt take that long OCI at the time. For my Mazda CX-5 I topped off the factory-fill with Mazda moly oil after I picked up the car, and changed factory-fill at 5,000 miles with 30% of oil life left. The reason why I changed my old habit of changing the factory-fill very early is that the new synthetic oil is much better, and some manufactures such as Honda specifically stated in the owners manual that dont change factory-fill early as new cars using break-in oil with very high contents of moly.

One additional reason I changed my old habit is after I learned more than half of the used oil collected even at most environmental friendly state in California under the name of recycling is shipped out of state or offshore to be burned as fuel, resulting in toxic air pollution. Oil is a non-renewable and dwindling global resource.

Used Motor Oil Recycling

Most of us DIYers just buy a 5 qt. jug of full synthetic at Walmart and call it good. Oil does not necessarily need to be at the full mark hole on the dipstick. As long as the oil level stays between the two holes on the dipstick between oil changes, you are good to go. Use 5 qts., monitor oil levels and go from there.

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I dont blame OP who would like to see the oil level at the Full mark of the dipstick after the oil change as Id like to do the same. it give us more safety margin and less likely to add oil before the next oil change. In fact even Mazda tells us in owners manual that to fill the oil to the Full mark when oil level is low. Mazda said the same on coolant level and real differential gear oil level, always fill the fluid to the Full mark! Then why Mazda doesnt do the same to fill all fluids to the Full mark?

Putting an Approximate Quantities note on fluid capacity specifications is a joke IMO. This is a first to me seeing capacity specifications are approximate from all vehicles Ive owned! Capacity specs from other vehicles are always precise, and measured to the Full mark. Thats why so many first-time Mazda owners such as OP and me are having a hard time accepting these because Mazda way is different from everybody else. The specs on torque values from Mazda manuals are also given in a range instead of one single value like everybody else. Those things Ive to get used to Mazda but giving an impression that Mazda is trying too hard to be different from everybody else, and Mazda is a car manufacture doesnt care on precision, giving those specifications with incorrect or approximate values or a range!

yrwei52 said:

I don*t blame OP who would like to see the oil level at the Full mark of the dipstick after the oil change as I*d like to do the same. it give us more safety margin and less likely to add oil before the next oil change. In fact even Mazda tells us in owner*s manual that to fill the oil to the Full mark when oil level is low. Mazda said the same on coolant level and real differential gear oil level, always fill the fluid to the Full mark! Then why Mazda doesn*t do the same to fill all fluids to the Full mark?

Putting an *Approximate Quantities* note on fluid capacity specifications is a joke IMO. This is a first to me seeing capacity specifications are approximate from all vehicles I*ve owned! Capacity specs from other vehicles are always precise, and measured to the Full mark. That*s why so many first-time Mazda owners such as OP and me are having a hard time accepting these because Mazda way is different from everybody else. The specs on torque values from Mazda manuals are also given in a range instead of one single value like everybody else. Those things I*ve to get used to Mazda but giving an impression that Mazda is trying too hard to be different from everybody else, and Mazda is a car manufacture doesn*t care on precision, giving those specifications with incorrect or approximate values or a range!

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Yeah I won't argue about the lack of precision on that front.

My point was its easier to just get a 5 quart jug and call it good. Over the years, seems to be that's the consensus, so I wouldn't worry about getting more precise than that. Do you put 5 whole bottles of Mazda Moly in for your oil changes Yrwei? Do you put in 5 and like .2 of a 6th bottle?

Just saying there's no need to worry too much there.

On the other hand, the ATF has a very precise measurement on it's dipstick, and it was definitely filled low from the factory. I also noticed that none of the dealers topped up the coolant reservoir when we were looking at used ones a week and half ago. They were all below the L. That's a little more irritating.