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Thread: Door lock actuators

  1. #16
    ......................... i12drivemyMP5's Avatar
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    Haven't heard of or seen thread about anyone ever having issue with hatch actuator now that you mention it..................it would be important if you have hatch trim with keyhole covered up. I do have that trim piece like that but it is in a box and not on the car. Kinda why I haven't swapped it yet. No way to open if battery dead or actuator issue which could also trap the spare tire if that one wasn't working.

  2. #17
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

    2002 mazda protege 5

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    I was bored so I took the actuator/lock off my parts car.




    I put 12V to it and it's working, but not for long because I intend to break it open.

    It's a non serviceable part but that's not stopped me before.









    I put 12V to it again to watch it work but the nylon gear popped off showing a spring on the backside.

    I guess it's like a shock absorber but I can't figure out to put it back on.
    I think I have to "preload" the spring somehow ?



    Either way it looks like it's no longer a fully functional actuator but it seems to be a better design so the one on my DD should keep working.
    The Diagram Dude

  3. #18
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

    2002 mazda protege 5

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    On a related note,..
    My drivers side front door lock isn't operating correctly.

    I don't use my remote ( because it will end up broken or wet) so I just use my key.

    I can put the key in the lock, turn it to open the lock and hold it for a second or two and all the doors will open.
    I used to be able to hold it to lock and all the doors would lock but that part isn't working anymore.

    I have to open the door and hit the lock switch to lock all the doors now.

    I think it's the micro switch inside the lock that's no longer working.

    I may at some point swap out the mechanism from my parts car or try to take apart my mechanism and cleanup/fix the micro switch but it's not that important, so I may not want to mess with it.

    Looking at the schematics, it's not making sense to me.
    I would think there would be three positions to test.

    Key in lock.
    Key turned to open.
    Key turned to lock.

    I'm wondering of it's a software issue with the ECU ?? It is tied to the security system but you'd think it would stop you from opening it, not locking it.

    Last edited by pcb; 01-23-2019 at 05:14 PM.
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  4. #19
    Registered Member katapaltes's Avatar

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    With my '03, I don't have to turn-and-hold to lock. It locks immediately. There's no chance you previously replaced the driver's door actuator with a non-keyless entry part, is there? (That's a total guess as I don't know about how the actuator works in combination with the door lock-link switch; I just know there are different parts for that one door's actuator.)
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  5. #20
    Registered Member NaturalFlavored's Avatar

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    It does look a lot more durable and less tension on the plastic worm.
    And now it looks like you'd have to buy a new one if it did break.

  6. #21
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by katapaltes View Post
    With my '03, I don't have to turn-and-hold to lock. It locks immediately.
    Yea, IIRC, that's how mine used to work.

    But it hasn't worked in over two years.

    Quote Originally Posted by katapaltes View Post
    There's no chance you previously replaced the driver's door actuator with a non-keyless entry part, is there? ...
    No.
    It just stopped working.

    But, that's right around the time I stopped using my remote so my ECU might have something to do with it.

    I'm gonna try my remote again and see if that makes any difference.
    Last edited by pcb; 01-23-2019 at 06:19 PM.
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  7. #22
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by NaturalFlavored View Post
    And now it looks like you'd have to buy a new one if it did break.
    I'm gonna try to figure out that spring and then glue it back together.

    I can at least reinstall the latch mechanism on the parts car so I can latch it shut.

    I noticed there were two rods connected to the latch.
    One for the handle and one for the keyhole.
    So the actuator doesn't need to be there.
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  8. #23
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    I found my three remotes and none of them worked.
    So I put new batteries in two of them and removed the battery from the third one because the buttons didn't seem to work.

    I managed to program one of the remotes but not two (because it's dark out and I'm pretty wasted) and the remote will now lock and unlock all the doors.





    But the key in the door lock still won't lock the doors.

    I will try to program two remotes and see if that makes any difference.
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  9. #24
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    It is a three way switch.





    Off, On and no contact.


    I'm glad I bought the wiring diagrams.

    Now to test the parts car for continuity.
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