Fumoto Valve Question

Installed mine at roughly 15K miles. Now at 65K. Never a leak - works perfectly. Always change oil when my CX-5 is on ramps. Satisfied with how much oil drains. No spills either except from the filter change.
 
I took a file and notched the thread side that is opposite the valve handle (as I wanted the handle to be up out of the way of road hazards) so that it would minimize the restriction to oil flow on mine before I installed it.
VERY NICE RESPONSE GAXIBM!!!!!!! ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

BINGO! And that was the modification to do. You must be an old time JC Whitney customer. I say that because these type of drain valve have been around since the mid 1970's. We all machined or "notched" the threads fo rbetter and more complete oil draining. Another thing depending on the pan you can index the position of the notch with special hardened indexing washers. I also would use loctite blue on the threads for added sealing and security.

Here I had a picture all ready and was setting up my drill press this afternoon... LOL


[url=https://postimg.cc/2V5sc2z2][/URL]
 
A little O.C.D. on this subject....as long as you change your engine oil when you are supposed too that little bit left inside the engine WILL NOT HARM IT. (hand) If you are that concerned...install a magnet to collect any metal debris. Fumoto valves are great to use.
 
Still gotta crawl under and deal with the filter. In the end how much time and trouble are you really saving over the oem plug? And now you gotta notch it too? Meh.
 
Still gotta crawl under and deal with the filter. In the end how much time and trouble are you really saving over the oem plug? And now you gotta notch it too? Meh.
Exactly. With Fumoto valve you may gain 50 seconds to open the drain, but it takes longer time to actually drain the old oil as the diameter of drain hole on Fumoto valve is much smaller. Your hand may be easier to keep it clean to open a valve, but it still get dirty easily while youre taking the oil filter down.

How difficult to loose a factory drain plug as long as you have a 8mm Allen hex socket?

Preventing a complete drain aside, more important issue IMO is with Fumoto valve extending through the drain hole, which is in 45 in angle by the way, any heavier metal shavings stays in the pan instead of draining out smoothly with the oil.

As I mentioned before, therere members here who had taken the oil pan down with Fumoto valve, and was surprised to see how much oil left in the pan.
 
I drain on ramps so what little is left in there I am fine with. Draining directly into my transport container is also quicker and easier. Much easier and cleaner to obtain oil samples as well. A couple less tools I need to pull out for oil change and no need to worry about torquing oil drain bolt every time and replace crush washer. For me... too many plusses at this point. For better or worse...nothing compelling I have seen that is going to make me remove them at this point. :)
 
Well that was easy enough. About 20 minutes worth of work, enlarged the drain hole , chamfer the edges, chased the thread and slotted the side for a little more draining capability and replaced the fiber gasket with a aluminum (not really necessary) washer, and then added a creature comfort rubber valve cap.

[url=https://postimg.cc/jDtNHbcc][/URL]

[url=https://postimg.cc/FfnLXJ4C][/URL]

A little tip when using this type of oil pan valve, to speed up the oil draining remove the oil fill cap prior to opening the valve and drain the oil when it is hot or at least warm.
 
Last edited:
New (year-end 2018) CX-5 owner here..... Not my first Mazda, but my first Mazda SUV, and I've picked up a lot of good info on the forum.

I have used Fumoto valves on several vehicles and plan on installing a F106S (plus snap-off tubing adapter) on the CX-5. I have searched the forum but can't seem to find a definitive statement on whether the Fumoto extension is required on the 2.5L. The Fumoto website only indicates that the extension may be required. Hoping to avoid any surprises when it comes time for the first oil change...

Thanks!

Going through this thread and I never saw a definitve answer to your question about if the extension is required for the 2.5L. What did you end up getting? I'm wanting to get a Fumoto for my wife's CX-5.

Thanks in advance!
 
Going through this thread and I never saw a definitve answer to your question about if the extension is required for the 2.5L. What did you end up getting? I'm wanting to get a Fumoto for my wife's CX-5.

Thanks in advance!

I purchased the F106S plus a snap-off hose adapter - this is one of the versions that Fumoto recommended for the CX-5. It sounds like others have used the N version (longer nipple) without any issues.
 
Last edited:
I purchased the F106S plus a snap-off hose adapter - this is one of the versions that Fumoto recommended for the CX-5. It sounds like others have used the N version (longer nipple) without any issues.


Going by what Kedis82ZE8 had to say, I ordered the N version that included the lever clip off Amazon. My trail period of Prime was about to end so I also got free shipping, so the whole kit was right at $29.

I've been changing the oil in my wife's vehicle every 5,000 miles since new (now at 57,000) and after the last change the plug developed a slight drip. Had I not been going out of state for a couple of months I would have left it and watched it until the next change. Instead, I pulled the plug and put some Permatex Thread Sealant on the plug, which fixed the slight drip. Of course pulling the plug meant draining all the Mazda Moly oil. I didn't have a clean container handy so all that fresh oil was lost. Luckily, I had enough on the shelf and I'm able to use a friends discount at the "stealership" and get the oil at about $6.00 a quart. It still hurt watching oil and money being wasted. It was then I started looking for something where I didn't have to pull the plug, watch how the new "crush washer" went on and then worry about another possible dripping plug. I've always changed the oil in all my toys and vehicles for almost 50 years without any problems until the last oil change on her CX-5. So I'm curious to how the Fumoto will work and looking forward to making her oil changes a little easier. Some mentioned about the little bit of oil left in the pan, which I'm not concerned about. I'd be more concerned about some "so-called" tech changing my oil.

Thanks for starting this thread. Good discussion and information provided.
 
T
Going by what Kedis82ZE8 had to say, I ordered the N version that included the lever clip off Amazon. My trail period of Prime was about to end so I also got free shipping, so the whole kit was right at $29.

I've been changing the oil in my wife's vehicle every 5,000 miles since new (now at 57,000) and after the last change the plug developed a slight drip. Had I not been going out of state for a couple of months I would have left it and watched it until the next change. Instead, I pulled the plug and put some Permatex Thread Sealant on the plug, which fixed the slight drip. Of course pulling the plug meant draining all the Mazda Moly oil. I didn't have a clean container handy so all that fresh oil was lost. Luckily, I had enough on the shelf and I'm able to use a friends discount at the "stealership" and get the oil at about $6.00 a quart. It still hurt watching oil and money being wasted. It was then I started looking for something where I didn't have to pull the plug, watch how the new "crush washer" went on and then worry about another possible dripping plug. I've always changed the oil in all my toys and vehicles for almost 50 years without any problems until the last oil change on her CX-5. So I'm curious to how the Fumoto will work and looking forward to making her oil changes a little easier. Some mentioned about the little bit of oil left in the pan, which I'm not concerned about. I'd be more concerned about some "so-called" tech changing my oil.

Thanks for starting this thread. Good discussion and information provided.
At first I thought you re-used aluminum drain plug washer which may cause dripping, but apparently you didnt. Yeah thiss strange that the drain plug would dripping with a new washer, and like you Ive never had such problem as long as I use a new washer. If I were in your shoes Id put a Fumoto valve too but Id also cut a groove like some had done so that old oil can be drained more completely.
 
TAt first I thought you re-used aluminum drain plug washer which may cause dripping, but apparently you didn*t. Yeah this*s strange that the drain plug would dripping with a new washer, and like you I*ve never had such problem as long as I use a new washer. If I were in your shoes I*d put a Fumoto valve too but I*d also cut a groove like some had done so that old oil can be drained more completely.

How does one go about correctly cutting these grooves? I was considering maybe getting a couple of these valves. My sister recently purchased a CPO CX-5 and I am going to help teach her how to perform some of this maintenance like oil changes (or more likely I'm going to do it lol).
 
When I put a FUMOTO Valve on Subarus, we used to measure the thread length carefully and file a notch in the valve so that 99% of the oil drained. The CX5 oil drain is so easy, I don't mess with another FUMOTO valve.
 
How does one go about correctly cutting these grooves? I was considering maybe getting a couple of these valves. My sister recently purchased a CPO CX-5 and I am going to help teach her how to perform some of this maintenance like oil changes (or more likely I'm going to do it lol).

It is brass so fairly easy to take a file and create a groove opposite the valve handle and install with the valve handle up and out of the way of any possible road hazard.
 
Trying to sort through a lot of different opinions in different threads, and I am wondering whether anyone has actually measured the difference in the amount of oil left in the 2.5 CX-5 pan when using a Fumoto valve vs. the standard drain plug? From what I've read, it sounds like the threaded portion of the valve may be slightly longer (3/16" ??) than the thickness of the pan, but since the valve is going in the side of the pan, and not straight up into the bottom, how detrimental of an effect does that extra length actually have?
 
Back