Gas quality. Is cheap low octane gas as good as expensive low octane gas?

jthj said:
Fortunately carbon buildup doesnt seem to be a big issue with Skyactiv like it was on the MZR motors.

Personally Im not to worried about it. And will continue with to use top tier gas. I keep telling the wife to stay away from that cheap grocery store gas.
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Think again ⋯

Oil, Carbon build up palooza!

Driver 1 said:
intake manifold of a 25000+ km 2016 mazda cx-5

vnmbex.jpg

2uojfoy.jpg

4ik51y.jpg

29p2sch.jpg


pcv oil separator why you no work??? (argh)

any thoughts on how to effectively remove those gunk on intake valves?
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Driver 1 said:
UPDATE: after installing catch can at 25000+km, now at 33000km+
Amazing results!!!!!! it magically cleaned the intake port and valve!
hs2eet.jpg


just kidding, i think it got worse haha
102pjwn.jpg

could be that i never cleaned the intake manifold fully, i remember there was a pool of oil in when i reinstalled it (pure laziness (wiggle))
or the catch can is ineffective(uhm)
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ruthrj said:
How so? I use about 4 gallons of gas a year to run my ride on mower, so I paid an extra $2.40 for ethanol free gas. It sits much longer in a tank that is not sealed well, thus exposed to humid FL air. Ethanol + H20 = no bueno. Don*t want the ethanol soaking up water, and the engine runs stronger and smoother with straight gasoline. It*s amazing how fast E10 goes bad in a mower tank. And as much as I like Briggs and Stratton engines, even their modern designs don*t handle ethanol well. My first ride on mower needed the engine rebuilt after 5 years of use because the E10 took out the seals.
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I have to concur, although my experience is with my snowblower (I don't have a power lawn mower).
The first year I used my new snowblower (2014), I used regular gas with ethanol in it. It didn't really run that great, and after sitting for a few weeks (no snowstorms), the float got stuck.
I cleaned it out thoroughly after the first winter, and have been running the highest octane, ethanol free, gas I can get.
It has run perfectly since then. No gumming up of the carb or float, and starts on the first pull after sitting for 6 months.
For a few extra dollars a year, it's well worth it.
 
And:

INTAKE valve crud

erhayes said:
MAZDA has attacked the DI problem by, keeping the intake valve temperature up. It appears that ir is a step in the right direction but, not completely successful based on BITOG responses. Has Mazda made any improvements in the 2019 engines to alleviate the problem entirely? Ed
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Ethanol free seems to be rare around here. I have gotten it by the office. It's not Top Tier. I've just been sticking with Top Tier. Usually Shell since it's right by the house, plus I get $0.05 off a gallon.

Whether it makes a difference or not, I don't know, but I'll take any edge I can get.
 
And don't forget to use Stabil in any engine that isn't used regularly. Never drain the tank again.
 
Yup I add that to the gas for the snow blower.

I dont think top tier is just marketing. Thats miss understanding the situation. Top Tier sets a standard (determined by a group of auto makers) and gives a consumer a way to know beyond just trusting BP at their word for example.

It came about because EPA minimums arent good enough to really protect your engine.

Also not all the top tier brands are expensive. QT and Quicktrip which are common around here are less than Shell or BP for example.
 
jthj said:
Yup I add that to the gas for the snow blower.

I don*t think top tier is just marketing. That*s miss understanding the situation. Top Tier sets a standard (determined by a group of auto makers) and gives a consumer a way to know beyond just trusting BP at their word for example.

It came about because EPA minimums aren*t good enough to really protect your engine.

Also not all the top tier brands are expensive. QT and Quicktrip which are common around here are less than Shell or BP for example.
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Yeah, I just like the idea that if I buy Top Tier, I know the gas is of a consistent standard of quality if nothing else.
 
ruthrj said:
How so? I use about 4 gallons of gas a year to run my ride on mower, so I paid an extra $2.40 for ethanol free gas. It sits much longer in a tank that is not sealed well, thus exposed to humid FL air. Ethanol + H20 = no bueno. Don*t want the ethanol soaking up water, and the engine runs stronger and smoother with straight gasoline. It*s amazing how fast E10 goes bad in a mower tank. And as much as I like Briggs and Stratton engines, even their modern designs don*t handle ethanol well. My first ride on mower needed the engine rebuilt after 5 years of use because the E10 took out the seals.
Click to expand...

Never mind him, you*re doing the right thing. If there*s anywhere the ethanol free makes a huge difference, it*s in small engines...
 
I wanted to get ethanol free for my snow blower but havent been able to find it. I concur its in those small engines where you would want ethanol free.

And now were probably going to have to only be able to find E15.
 
NelsonLewis said:
Never mind him, you*re doing the right thing. If there*s anywhere the ethanol free makes a huge difference, it*s in small engines...
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No offense taken at all. I used to feel the same way that E10 was fine in a small engine when the manufacturer said it should be fine, right up until that engine blew. It ran flawlessly for another 8 years on ethanol free after it was rebuilt.
 
jthj said:
I don*t think top tier is just marketing.
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What I meant is just because a brand is not a paid member, it does not mean that their fuel is a lower quality. My example was holdout BP that finally caved without changing a thing. They just had to increase their prices to cover the advertising costs associated with Top-Tier.
 
yrwei52 said:
Think again ⋯

Oil, Carbon build up palooza!
Click to expand...

I think you misunderstood me. I didnt say Mazda eliminated carbon buildup in Skyactiv. Rather it isnt causing wide spread drive ability issues like was the case with the MZR motor. In other words its better mitigated in Skyactiv.

Now Im aware people take their intakes off and say OMG this looks bad. Was the same case with the Ecoboost. With the Ecoboost there were some cases of driveability issues but it seemed to mainly be on cars that were not driven much and I suspect the issue was exaggerated from the engine rarely if ever being brought up to full operating temperature.

Looks bad and car is performing poorly are different things.

If we have to get it cleaned after 60k miles or whatever Ill do that. Im not too worried as there are a lot of folks here into higher mileage that have not started experiencing reduced performance, reduced efficiency, or CEL as a result of buildup.
 
NelsonLewis said:
Never mind him, you*re doing the right thing. If there*s anywhere the ethanol free makes a huge difference, it*s in small engines...
Click to expand...
Exactly. Gasoline doesnt need ethanol as the oxygenate under the name of protecting environment, or worse the Methyl tert-butyl ether, MTBE, before the ethanol era mandated by EPA during the 90s. MTBE contaminated soil and ground water and we have to spend up to $30 billion to clean them up. Thiss all politics, has nothing to do with helping the environment!
 
Ill try not to get into politics past saying I agree its political not science based lol. Ok walking away from that now.
 
LoL at his mower
LoL
ruthrj said:
How so? I use about 4 gallons of gas a year to run my ride on mower, so I paid an extra $2.40 for ethanol free gas. It sits much longer in a tank that is not sealed well, thus exposed to humid FL air. Ethanol + H20 = no bueno. Dont want the ethanol soaking up water, and the engine runs stronger and smoother with straight gasoline. Its amazing how fast E10 goes bad in a mower tank. And as much as I like Briggs and Stratton engines, even their modern designs dont handle ethanol well. My first ride on mower needed the engine rebuilt after 5 years of use because the E10 took out the seals.
Click to expand...
Ah. Honestly know nothing snout ride on mowers. My little MTD push mower hers the cheapest gas I can find. I do nothing special to it when I out it away for the winter. Every spring, without fail, it fires up on the first pull every time. It's not 7 years old. Nothing will convince me putting good gas in that is a good idea in any climate.
Also use the cheap stuff in my 10 year old snow blower. Zero problems. Though ive only used it once since I got my AWD CX5. [emoji38]
 
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Kedis82ZE8 said:
Just my opinion but I think as time goes on the ones that open up their cars a bit and also drive 70-80%% HWY will have less issues with the carbon buildup actually causing a drivability issue. If you primarily drive in the city and short distances.... those are the cars I foresee problems long term.

EDIT: Stabil in all of my yard gear. Ethanol turns into a jelly in the carb bowl. One is just asking for trouble leaving that kind of fuel in there year round and untreated.
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I have had issues with my Vespa so I do use Stabil in that over winter. But not the yard stuff.
 
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