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Thread: Brake Flush @ 53k miles

  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by yrwei52 View Post
    If the memory serves me correctly, madar had some seepage issue on bleeding valve after he bled the brake system and had to get new valve on his VW? I found one of the bleeding valve was doing the same on my CR-V several days after I changed the brake fluid although I did check at the time making sure there*s no seepage. New bleeding valves were ordered for my CR-V as I tightened the valve a little more but the leakage was worse. I haven*t received the bleeding valves but I loosed the valve and tightened it up again with the spec at 6.5 lbf-ft which is not very tight and it doesn*t show any seepage so far.

    I guess we should check the seepage on brake bleeding valves several days after the brake fluid change.
    Was on my '14 CX5, only VW I owned was a '69 Beetle back in 1978, lol. I had some seeping even when torqued to spec so I just ordered new ones. Relatively inexpensive at 3 bucks a pop.

  2. #17
    Registered Member gova's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by concept View Post
    I hope you limited the brake pedal travel. After thousands of braking cycles, the master cylinder seal will create a ridge in the bore. Pumping the brake pedal to the floor will allow the piston seal to extend past the ridge, possibly causing damage to the seal.
    Popular mechanics recommends using a wood block if manual brake fluid bleeding is used.
    Yes, I did. Had "specially designed" one to limit the travel. Brakes have been fine since then, 2 years - 20K miles.

  3. #18
    i-ACTIV AWD Aficionado Kedis82ZE8's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by veedub6 View Post
    I would also be interested in the Motiv adapter, please let us know when it's available.

    Order of bleeding calipers: RR -> LR -> RF -> LF
    It might help to have more inquiring about it.

    support@motiveproducts.com

    Ask about 1.8" adapter for Mazdas
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  4. #19
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    How does so much water get into the brake fluid? I didn't think the small amount of air that is sucked in as the pads wear could hold that much humidity.

  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by MyFirstMazda View Post
    How does so much water get into the brake fluid? I didn't think the small amount of air that is sucked in as the pads wear could hold that much humidity.
    The fluid has an affinity for moisture. Im not sure of the exact how, but its not a design issue, its just how it is.

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kedis82ZE8 View Post
    It might help to have more inquiring about it.

    support@motiveproducts.com

    Ask about 1.8" adapter for Mazdas
    Kedis, do you have a compressor? I was thinking about getting a vacuum bleeder instead of the motive. It would mean you don't need a car specific adapter for the master cylinder. You still need to keep topping off the master cylinder.

  7. #22
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    Property of some reddit post which explains.

    DOT 3, DOT 4, and DOT 5.1 are all glycol-ether based.
    Glycol based fluids are hygroscopic which means they absorb water/moisture from the environment at normal atmospheric pressures at a rate of 2-3% per year. This process is exasperated in more humid conditions and climates.

    This water content finds it's way into the brake fluid via microscopic pores in brake hoses, seals, joints and seams. As we've learnt, water mixed with DOT fluid has an adverse effect on the brake fluid by reducing it's boiling temperature and therefore reducing it's performance.


    A benefit sometimes is to get dot 5.1 which has higheest boiling temp of the three if I remember correctly. I.e. it may also degrade just a bit slower. The only one I have used,tried in the past was Motul 5.1 and it was great.

  8. #23
    Registered Member PatrickGSR94's Avatar

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    DOT 4 has a higher boiling point than DOT 3, but absorbs moisture faster. For normal street use DOT 3 is recommended.

    I just flushed the brakes on my Integra and figured out an easy one-man method. I used just a piece of clear tubing attached to a drink bottle with a hole in the cap and some fluid inside. Then I set it up on each brake caliper and pointed my GoPro Hero 4 camera with wi-fi towards the bleeder valve and hose, and used my phone as a video monitor while sitting inside the car and pushing the brake fluid out with the pedal. It worked like a charm, and I had all the brakes flushed and bled in about 15 minutes after getting the wheels off. I was amazed how each and mess-free the whole process was. Only thing I had to clean up with a slight dribble of brake fluid that came out around the bleed screw threads.

    I tried a pneumatic vacuum bleeder and it was absolutely awful. Hand vac bleeder wasn't much better. I will be doing it this way with my GoPro from now on.

    1994 Acura Integra GSR - 368K miles, a few mods
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  9. #24
    Registered Member yrwei52's Avatar
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    Arrow Brake Flush @ 53k miles

    Quote Originally Posted by PatrickGSR94 View Post
    DOT 4 has a higher boiling point than DOT 3, but absorbs moisture faster. For normal street use DOT 3 is recommended.

    I just flushed the brakes on my Integra and figured out an easy one-man method. I used just a piece of clear tubing attached to a drink bottle with a hole in the cap and some fluid inside. Then I set it up on each brake caliper and pointed my GoPro Hero 4 camera with wi-fi towards the bleeder valve and hose, and used my phone as a video monitor while sitting inside the car and pushing the brake fluid out with the pedal. It worked like a charm, and I had all the brakes flushed and bled in about 15 minutes after getting the wheels off. I was amazed how each and mess-free the whole process was. Only thing I had to clean up with a slight dribble of brake fluid that came out around the bleed screw threads.

    I tried a pneumatic vacuum bleeder and it was absolutely awful. Hand vac bleeder wasn't much better. I will be doing it this way with my GoPro from now on.

    Thanks for sharing your experience. Did you do one at a time while bleeding, right? I did 2-man-method brake fluid flush on my 1998 Honda CR-V with 183K miles for the first time not long ago. One problem I had was finding a right sized clear plastic tube for bleeding. Since the tube is not as flexible as rubber tube, sometimes it'd dislodge from bleeder valve by itself. And one of the bleeding valve had seepage problem afterwards.

    I noticed all vehicles I've seen are always recommending DOT3 brake fluid by manufactures. Some even warned against DOT4 brake fluid as it may cause corrosion issues. And mixing DO3 and DOT4 brake fluid is not a good idea either.

  10. #25
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    I have been using 5.1 on few 20 year old cars without any issues. but as always your mileage may vary.
    I have no idea why manufacturers keep suggesting dot3.

  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by cz5gt View Post
    I have been using 5.1 on few 20 year old cars without any issues. but as always your mileage may vary.
    I have no idea why manufacturers keep suggesting dot3.
    DOT 4 is just fine for passenger cars. DOT 5.1 just has a higher boiling point is all, basically. DOT 5 won't work with ABS. DOT 4 is cheaper, so meh.
    Last edited by Unobtanium; 03-15-2019 at 01:17 AM.

  12. #27
    Registered Member PatrickGSR94's Avatar

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    Usually the fluids with higher boiling points (good for racing) also absorb moisture faster. That's why manufacturers keep recommending DOT3. For street use anything more than DOT3 is not necessary. You can use it, but you just have to be more diligent about flushing it regularly. I've heard of guys who track their street vehicles that they flush fluid for each event, switching from DOT3 to DOT4 for the track, then flushing it back out again to DOT3 after the event is done.
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  13. #28
    Registered Member PatrickGSR94's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by yrwei52 View Post
    Thanks for sharing your experience. Did you do one at a time while bleeding, right? I did 2-man-method brake fluid flush on my 1998 Honda CR-V with 183K miles for the first time not long ago. One problem I had was finding a right sized clear plastic tube for bleeding. Since the tube is not as flexible as rubber tube, sometimes it'd dislodge from bleeder valve by itself. And one of the bleeding valve had seepage problem afterwards.

    I noticed all vehicles I've seen are always recommending DOT3 brake fluid by manufactures. Some even warned against DOT4 brake fluid as it may cause corrosion issues. And mixing DO3 and DOT4 brake fluid is not a good idea either.
    Yes, one at a time. It was super easy. I'm not sure where I got that tube shown in the pic, it may have come with the Mighty-Vac hand vacuum pump set. But it works great on the Integra bleeders, and I would assume it would work on the CX5 although I haven't tried it yet. One thing I learned is that it's best for the tube to come upwards out of bleed valve to a higher spot before turning back down into the container, to make it easier for air bubble to escape without going back into the caliper.
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  14. #29
    Registered Member concept's Avatar

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    Try www.mcmaster.com
    Verify that the tubing you use is compatible wit brake fluid.
    2014 3S GT, Deep Crystal Blue, Eibach Pro-Kit, Enkei PF01s, Koni Sports, Pirelli P ZERO ALL SEASON PLUS tires, 225/45/18
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  15. #30
    Registered Member PatrickGSR94's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by concept View Post
    Try www.mcmaster.com
    Verify that the tubing you use is compatible wit brake fluid.
    I've had that same length of tubing for years and years. Never an issue.
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