Slow NA Pro5 build

Ok so I loosened it up, and did another videos, still no movement. I can pull the cable back and forth when it's loosened up so I don't think it's siezed. I tried moving that arm contraption and I couldn't get it to budge with my hands, I tried both sides results are the same for both. Could those arms be seized up?

As a last test, try disconnecting the cable T-lug and try to rotate the arm contraption.
It should rotate back and firth freely. If not, your calipers are shot.

Here's what I did to reinforce my return spring.

I think that's what you call Jerry Rigged. Lol

 
I grew up Jerry riggin just about everything, if it works it works right? I like to think of it as field engineering haha. And Damn I think my calipers might be shot then, I could pull the cables almost out of the clip with two fingers but can't get those things to budge at all. I guess it's time for a rear brake overhaul. I'm thinking about doing all my brakeline and cables while I'm at it and flushing the fluid n check out the the booster, will probably break as soon as I touch it so why not. I'm thinking i won't be driving yeller again for a long time. As I fix things I become dissatisfied with how something else is holding up and want to replace more. So many parts, so many decisions, so little money haha
 
Maybe it's time to take it out behind the barn and just shoot it.??
Lol

 
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Well that was the original idea for the name haha and there is another yellow o5 with an mp3 ecu an fsde swap for 700 right down the road but I won't have that kinda cash for a paycheck or 2, he needs it gone asap and I know someone's gunna jump on that. I'm still looking around though hoping that one day the stars will align and a good deal will pop up when I actually have money lol
 
Maybe keep it and fix it up for your new child that's coming.

You've got about 16 years to fix it up before he/she crashes it. Lol
 
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Maybe keep it and fix it up for your new child that's coming.

You've got about 16 years to fix it up before he/she crashes it. Lol
That's actually a pretty good excuse to keep it for 16 years haha. I might get some fun out of it in the last 3 or 4 years if I get my ass in gear
 
Just pulled the tape off after 3 "light" clear coats, I tried to get a picture but my phones camera has gotten so bad. I didn't really sand down the whole piece I was painting so there's a lip on the edge of the paint, and the parts I really sanded down you can still see the shape through the paint. It looks good from 15 feet away or through my crappy camera, that's good enough for now. As long as I don't have two distinctly different colors of paint and no bare metal showing. It's not pretty but it's yellow again haha 🖒
 
Well finally got yeller started up again, I went out and got a jump pack. I didn't realize how much I missed my ghetto exhaust haha. Also little update on tina, I've had a wobble at 45 so I jacked her up and wiggled to wheels. Yep it's a wheel bearing, I have like a half inch of movement on that wheel. I ordered front rotors, pads, bearings and seals, hopefully that won't be too terrible
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Well nothing happening to the protege beside a couple jump starts and pulling out the half junk battery (only holds a half charge). But I did my passenger side wheel bearings on tina. Lord what a pita that was, mostly out of stupidity on my part lol. I pulled the caliper and brackets off, pulled off the dust cap and the cotter pin was sheared off....... yay. I took everything off by hand it was so loose, I pulled everything out just to be sure I wasn't tighting the axle nut onto shot bearings. Of course everything was in pristine condition. I replaced it all anyways because I had the parts. The thing that hung me up was the inner wheel seal, I ruined both my new seals trying to get em on. I bought 2 more and then did it again, at this point I was livid and was on the verge of punching the door. A cigarette and 6 phone calls later I found 2 more a couple miles down the road. When I got back I instantly saw what had happened and almost punched myself for wasting 20 bucks on 4 seals. I had the Damn hub backwards............ I was putting the inner seal on the outside of the hub (facepalm). I felt like an idiot, flipped the hub tapped in the seal, gave it a good grease packing and bolted it all back up. I also swapped out my pads and rotor because the wheel wobble was so bad. I was gunna do both sides for a sense of security, not anymore lol those are now backup parts for next time. The pads and rotors were new when I got the truck so only the passenger side needed attention. Needless to say I miss my protege (Hey that kinda rhymes)
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Well one hell of a day today, i got a new to me a fancy 4-1 header from NaturalFlavored. Looks awesome, super light, welds look super clean. I managed to finagle the stock crap header out but was left with one major problem. While loosening the egr pipe nut where it threads onto the header, the nut actually pulled the threads out with it. After spending an hour trying to get the nut off the the thread insert using PB blaster, WD40, and a blowtorch I decided to swap out the entire pipe with one I got from JackieChan a couple years ago. Sounded good in my head until I started, so far I have half the wiring loom unplugged and am probably gunna pull some coolant lines just to get my crescent wrench down in there. I called it a day at the coolant lines as I've been out here for 4 hours and have made zero progress since the first hour lol. Other than that the rest went somewhat smooth, getting the stock header out of it's hole was the hardest part of removal. Shout out to JackieChan and NaturalFlavored for the part hookups. I'll try to remember to update tomorrow if I make any progress
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Also any tips for getting that egr pipe off would be greatly appreciated. I went back in for a second wind and got the coolant lines off.....and dumped about a gallon of antifreeze onto the floor (insert facepalm here). After a bucket of rags and finally getting a drain pan under it, I finally had the room I needed to get my wrench on. I ended up sitting on my valve cover and strut bar wrenching with all I got and that nut will not move. I can't fit a hammer in there, I don't have the right size wrench so I'm using a crescent, and there's no room for double wrenching anyways.
 
Try putting some heat to it.
Put some flame on it if you won't set your engine on fire.
 
I missed your last post...

... After spending an hour trying to get the nut off the the thread insert using PB blaster, WD40, and a blowtorch...

But I still think heat is your best friend.

Stop with the sprays because they catch fire and try to get things as close to red hot as is safe.

I don't know exactly what you're trying to unscrew from where but this is how I got my bleeder screw out of my rusty ass caliper.



 
Yep, get some heat on it and it should loosen up

If you're not using that particular pipe, could you cut it short and use a socket/ breaker bar combo?

Gotta be careful not to strip the threads on the head, that would be really bad luck!
 
Well I torched the living s*** out of it, still nothing. I borrowed my buddy's 1" socket and cut off the pipe, of course I nicked the wire loom so now I gotta patch that. The socket doesn't have enough room to get around a hard pipe running from the thermostat. I cannot get that hardline out, I didn't realize that I would have to tear apart the entire front drivers side of the engine bay just to swap out a manifold that had like 14 bolts on it. I'm at the end of my wits and my fallback has always been a 4pd sledge, any ideas?
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Also looks like the pipe runs right into the intake mani. I have a spare manifold that I'm still sanding down, I'm kinda thinking just saying **** it with this intake and finish the new one. Then just put in both manifolds? But with the amount of room I have I'm already loosing sockets wrenches and hardware. So I don't know if I want to tear it all apart only to realize I'm missing half the hardware up in installation.
 
Just an FYI as this could be an option for you. Over the years, many have capped off the port on the exhaust manifold side, cut the tube running into the intake manifold and just put a breather filter on it. The EGR will get fresh air and it doesn't throw any check engine codes. I plan on doing this whenever I decide to change out my turbo manifold.
 
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