Slow NA Pro5 build

STudMUffin97 · Jul 15, 2019

Well I grabbed a door on the cheap off a white of 01 protege, luckily it had all the electric options so the wire loom plugged right it. It was missing about 4 or 5 little inserts so it's not the exact same. Be warned you need and extra set of hands and the door need to be wide open in order to get to the brackets in place and line up the bolts. Mine didn't quite line up, it looks pushed forward an 1/8 inch. I suspect my brackets are damaged and bent from the gaurd rail. I just pried the door and fender a bit and tugged on the door so it clears now. The electric motor thingy that controls the lock is shot so I have to manually lock it but I have a door again so no complaints. Plus I gutted my previous door for this reason. Needs a good bath and new trim (I'm probably gunna pull all the trim at some point) not sure how I feel about the shape of my paint at this point. I have mismatched yellow everywhere, a filthy white door, and small dings all over the car. I'm thinking about saving up to get the whole car repainted with the factory sunburst yellow and maybe getting all the dings filled, would I even be able to cover up that quarter panel and make it look smooth? I don't know, I need to research body work. Other than that new bulbs are on their way along with rear reman calipers, now I just need a passenger tail light.

STudMUffin97 · Jul 15, 2019

"Washed" yeller today, I say that because I really just gave it a quick scrub and rinse haha. Figured I'd get some pics not in the garage lol, it's still my crappy phone but it's outside at least. I also took a small drive 2 blocks down to my bosses place, I opened it up in second and man it's so loud now I can't help but smile as I pass 4k rpm. It's still pretty raspy cuz no muffler dude asuh straight pipe lyfe [emoji41][emoji111] I'm really hoping someone posts a racing beat muffler in the for sale section haha

LankyKiwi · Jul 16, 2019

Looking good out in the sunshine!

Damage doesn't look too bad now, love the face on the back lol

Ever thought of wrapping it?

STudMUffin97 · Jul 16, 2019

LankyKiwi said:
Looking good out in the sunshine!

Damage doesn't look too bad now, love the face on the back lol

Ever thought of wrapping it?

I have thought about wrapping, but isn't that more expensive than a paintjob? I was real bored with the off color yellow patches so threw in a bit creativity haha, but man your supercharging? I've tinkered around with the idea but your actually pulling the trigger. I can't wait to see the hole in you hood with that supercharger poking through haha, unless you can somehow wedge it in somewhere in the bay. I'm honestly excited to see how it turns out, supercharged pro5 for the win

STudMUffin97 · Jul 16, 2019

Well fun things today, reman rear calipers came today. I jacked it up, pulled off the wheels and rotors. Pro tip remove the parking brake bracket before the caliper otherwise you get a nice red paintjob on your knuckles haha. My passenger side parking brake cable was suspiciously loose so I started digging into it. Followed them up to the exhaust heat shield, got 3 of those 10mm bolts out and then the 4rth one just spun in the hole [emoji58]. I managed to pry the shield off the bolt, I just need a washer if I ever get it out. Hey Riot looks like I'm starting to catch up on the broken weldnuts with you. After that was out of the way I see my passenger parking brake line is sheared off lol. So ima need to get some parking brake cables, maybe I'll get stainless....... nah too broke haha. I'm gunna hit up the for sale section. I didn't put it back together because I realized I'm out of brake klean and also brake fluid. So the calipers are just gunna rest on the sway bar for now. My shocks look pretty beat up too, the boots are all torn and rebound doesnt feel the best. Well i guess that can wait. All I used for this was a 9/16 socket (I don't have a 14mm) a 14mm wrench, breaker bar, ratchet and an extension. The drivers side is tricky, I had to double wrench the top caliper bolt because i only have a 4in extension. I suspect that a 2 or 3in might get in there.

pcb · Jul 16, 2019

P-brake cables aren't too expensive.

You'd pay about $33 US plus shipping and maybe tax.

All my weld nuts broke on that same heat shield.
I had to install new brake cables too.

Be careful if you order cables on line. They may end up sending you the one for drum brakes.

Rock auto is pretty good and knows that all P5's were 4 wheel disc brakes.

STudMUffin97 · Jul 16, 2019

Oh that ain't too bad, I get most of my basic parts from rock auto. My calipers got here in 4 days, over the weekend too. I like how specific their parts catalogue is, you get part numbers and they are pretty detailed with the protege5 parts.

STudMUffin97 · Jul 17, 2019

Well out with the old and in with the new. Reman calipers, new rotors and new hawk pads. I flushed out the brake lines before I put on the new calipers so they would get fresh fluid. I just finished bleeding them I still have to adjust them, but the adjusters do work. The old calipers were both seized up, I hadn't changed those pads since I bought the car 6 years ago. You can see there's still a good bit of pad left so they've been seized for a while now. I guess that explains why I can feel the whole weight of the car on the front when I brake. My bulbs from rock auto also arrived, it's so nice to see a tail light again. Now I just gotta find a Damn passenger tail light and preferably both P-Brake cables but I might just get the one, who knows. Also does anyone know where I can get the rotor set screw? Both of mine are missing, anyways tada

pcb · Jul 17, 2019

STudMUffin1177 said:
... Also does anyone know where I can get the rotor set screw? Both of mine are missing,

The T-bolt that holds down the car jack threads right into that hole.

Take it to a hardware store and get an equivalent grade 5 bolt. (match up the threads. metric thread)

The T-bolt is made out of cheese and will break in the threaded hole.

It's not really a set screw.

You thread a bolt in there to break the rotor free.

STudMUffin97 · Jul 17, 2019

I think it to set the rotor on the hub, you can't see it with my crappy camera but the hub has the same hole and they line right up. I know my fronts are held on with the lugs and caliper but are the rears supposed to have set screws? Idk either way I'm gunna try to clean out the threads In the hub and fine the right size screw. Figure it can't hurt to have it in, even if it's not really holding anything at least it'll be there when I need it

pcb · Jul 17, 2019

Hmmm...
I dunno.??

I think I'd rather have my pads scraping past a hole than a heavy duty screw or bolt head.. ??

The rotor is locked in by the lug nuts and bolts anyway.

STudMUffin97 · Jul 20, 2019

I tried adjusting the calipers yesterday, I got the passenger side almost clear and the drivers side is still kinda tight. I couldn't get them out any further, lefty loosy righty tighty right? I spun that adjusting gear for about 10 min on each side, I didn't wanna strip them out of that's possible so I took a quick test drive to see if they would loosen up, they didn't. I'm guessing I'm gunna have to wait to get my parking brake fixed to see if I can get them to adjust that way. As far as the hole goes I'm assuming it would be an Allen style set screw that would sit flush in the hole, I'm assuming it'll be fine like you said as the old ones didn't have them either. Well now it's waiting for payday to see if I have any cash left after rent, I'm hoping to have the car street legal by the end of august. All I really need is a tailight and the parking brake cable, I'd like to do the windshield soon too. I have some cheapo mud flaps coming in i got off of offer up and then I wanna make a simple skid plate for the front end. I probably won't need it for rallycross but I would like to have one when I take one of my future trips over some cones and off the course haha better safe than sorry

pcb · Jul 20, 2019

STudMUffin1177 said:
I tried adjusting the calipers yesterday, I got the passenger side almost clear and the drivers side is still kinda tight. I couldn't get them out any further, lefty loosy righty tighty right? I spun that adjusting gear for about 10 min on each side,

You may just have to "wear" them in.
I remember pounding my caliper on (with my hand,.. don't remember what caliper ?) because it was so tight.

My brakes were dragging for a while but they seated themselves.

As long as your rotors don't turn red you should be OK.

If your caliper is functioning properly then things may settle down and start working normally.

Your new pads could be a smidge extra thick.

I didn't wanna strip them out of that's possible

That might be possible,.. or the adjuster screw doesn't work at all ??

I'm guessing I'm gunna have to wait to get my parking brake fixed to see if I can get them to adjust that way.

The parking brake only adjusts the brakes tighter.
They don't loosen them.

As far as the hole goes I'm assuming it would be an Allen style set screw that would sit flush in the hole,

It may even be recessed to not interfere with the pads (but I still don't see the point of it ?)

STudMUffin97 · Jul 20, 2019

Well I guess ima just run it for now and maybe take a peak at them 100 miles in. I had to pound my calipers on too, I also used my hand. I was contemplating getting out the rubber mallet for the drivers side. Now I just gotta get it legal so I can break the pads in.

pcb · Jul 21, 2019

Keep a close eye on them and check for heat and that burning brake smell.

The only other option I can think of would be to try and sand down the pads a little bit to make them thinner.

pcb · Jul 21, 2019

pcb said:
I think I'd rather have my pads scraping past a hole than a heavy duty screw or bolt head.. ??

Duhhh...
I just realuzed that the set screw hole isn't where the pads hit the rotor.

You would still need to have it flush though or the wheel won't sit flush on the rotor.

Is that hole tapered to take the head of a screw ??

STudMUffin97 · Jul 21, 2019

The holes not tapered so I'm thinking it would have to be a set screw style like this. These are the wrong size, I just grabbed the first picture I could find on Google. We use these screws allot with warehouse high-speed doors, they thread in till they are flush or past flush and have an Allen head on them so there's essentially "head" on the bolt. Like you said it's probably not necessary seeing as the fronts don't have this hole and a bunch of rotors I was looking at didn't have it either. Maybe just peace of mind for mazda?

pcb · Jul 21, 2019

Or perhaps they bolt though from the other side where the heads won't be in the way ?

OR ..
You're supposed to off-set the threaded holes so you can put a bolt in the front and the back to break it free when it's seized ??

pcb · Jul 21, 2019

STudMUffin1177 said:
.... I spun that adjusting gear for about 10 min on each side, I didn't wanna strip them out of that's possible...

I decided to take apart my parts car caliper and check it out.

The adjuster screw definitely bottoms out when you pull the piston all the way in.

Make sure you actually have the adjuster screw and that it's not stripped.
Some remanufactured calipers are lacking the adjustment screw. It just sits in there and can fall out.

I used a rare earth magnet on a nail head to pull it out. Fits perfect and works great.

I'm having a really hard time figuring out how the self adjusting gear stuff works but I'm pretty sure you can have a "broken" adjustment screw system but the regular self adjusting braking still works (it adjusts every time you pull the P-brake.)

If your adjuster screw is missing or isn't working, you can rotate your brake piston in to retract it.

I did have my internals apart before and I'm not sure if I got it back together correctly.
(I've got a left over part.. a C-clip ??)

STudMUffin97 · Jul 21, 2019

I pulled both screws out and double checked them before I put it all back together. They looked good, no matter teeth or dirt in them. I couldn't see into the caliper so I don't know how the piston teeth are but I can't imagine they're that bad. At this point I'm thinking the pads just need to wear in, we do all this thinking and it's ends up being your first guess anyways haha. All I can do is try to run it for a bit like this and see what happens

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