Slow NA Pro5 build

Love your new phone dude !!!

Look how much I can zoom in on your new muffler pipe !!



Good luck with your e-test !!

I say leave the tail pipe the way it is for the test..

It doesn't look suspicious at all !!
 
Right? 🤣 fingers crossed for the test haha. Btw does anyone use tapatalk and is it not letting you access the Mazdas247 forums? For some reason I can't even find it through the app, it's like it doesn't exist anymore
 
Your private message looks different now too ??

Make sure you're logged into this site.
You might need your password.

 
I'm logged in on everything, tapatalk just can't find mazdas247 anymore. It worked at first when I switched phones but now it's like it was never there. All. the threads I'm subscribed to won't update either
 
He's the boss, so don't piss him off or we'll be completely shut down !!@$

Lol..
 
Thanks for the help man, I'll try hitting him up in the morning. Well, damnit I knew it was too good to be true. I took the car out for a late night shakedown out in the boonies to see if everything was the same as before it sat for 6 months. It happened, check engine light popped on. I havnt scanned it yet (its 12am) but I know its gonna be that P0420(?) I knew I should have ordered non foulers as soon as PCB mentioned them. Well what type of non foulers should I get? I've poked around for a couple hours but I can't seem to find any info on what size non foulers to run or what brands would be a safe bet. I think I have install figured out, doesn't seem to hard... Maybe I should get some decent 1/2 bits
 
Thanks for the link, I'd read that thread before but now that my apps all messed up half the time I click on a link it just sends me to the sites home page. Lol p0420, I think that was my code last night haha. Ima try to go with a set I can get locally so I'm not waiting on shipping, all I need to look for is the right thread to match the O2 sensor correct?
 
Yes. 18 mm 1.5 pitch thread.

You can get express shipping and have it in two days.
Drilling is a PITA and you'd need a quality drill bit.
 
Dude that was cake, holy crap. This had got to be the first time anything on this car has gone exactly as planned. I got a half inch step down bit and I think it was dorman(?) Non foulers. Cost me 12 bucks and some change, the step down bit was a gift from heaven I swear. It cut through the non fouler like butter and i was using my Walmart drill on an almost dead battery! I did an oil change too while I was down there and changed the filter, which was tight as hell this time. I've only put 3 miles on since the install but my light is gone and I dont think it will be coming back ��loved this mod, so simple, so easy, I read 2 threads and even i could do it in 30 min. Which is impressive because getting the filter off took about 20 haha i had to get rag on there. One thing I love about fram oil filters is the grippy top
 
Dude that was cake, holy crap....

... getting the filter off took about 20 haha i had to get rag on there. One thing I love about fram oil filters is the grippy top

Cool!! Glad everthing went smoothly for you.

I tend to over torque everything (not just my axle nuts) so when I put a new filter on I tighten it up then back it off a smidge.

I remember hammering a screwdriver through a filter to reef on the handle.
 
My word it has been an eventful weekend, went to the pick n pull 3 times this weekend. I got new hardware for the power steering pump tensioner bracket, mine was stripped out and locked in place. And a couple a bolts for my buddies ranger intake. Getting the bolt off the junk car was easy, getting it off my car took 2 hours with vice grips and a spud to grab the other side of the bolt. The grips are through the nut and my spud bent, but it's out and now my belt doesn't squeal when I turn on my heater, still chirps slightly at idle. I hope i dont have a bad pulley or something. While we were at the pick n pull I spotted this ES sedan with 2 sporty looking wheels on the back, which got me thinking that maybe there was some aftermarket goodies on the car. Looking around and I see the spindles have all been painted, endlinks are new, a way bars are painted, and the shocks looks barely broken in. So I grabbed a couple buddies and we went in 2 hours before close and the end of 40%off. All the hardware was tight but not rusted, the only troubles we had was getting the locking lug of the back passenger wheel and getting off these already rusted endlinks. The lug we just pounded on a 3/4 socket and spun it off lol, the endlinks though new looked like they reused the nut that holds them in and they were all chewed up and seized. So I got a 9/16 12point pound on and then stuck a pry bar behind the stut and started loosening while prying the endlink apart. It worked on all four, if you dont have a torch or a grinder just pry and loosen (if you dont car about these endlinks, they were all bent and broken at the end of the day). We got them out right as they closed down and I'm pretty hyped. I would post some pics but I have no clue how to do that on the website dangit. Antoine got back to me and sent a link to that page, I guess no more tapatalk now. Also has anyone used sedan springs and shocks on a wagon? I've read a bunch of older threads saying the rear is softer on the sedan because its lighter and the wagon will drop a bit in the rear. I dont care too much about my stance right now I just want some suspension that's not blown out and bouncing me down the road. Overall super pumped to get some new(to me) goodies on the car and they were only 100 bucks for all 4 with the hardware, would be been 210 if I awaited till after the sale
 
Woohoo pick 'n pull scores! Looking forwards to some pics

It's funny how little visual clues like aftermarket wheels can point to goldmines in those yards, like a car with no visible damage normally has a blown motor, or a car with the rear quarters smashed in is a good place to find a radiator or engine stuff


Springs should be Ok to use, the stock spring rates are the same between sedan and hatch, but different between 1.6L and 2.0L cars (found on protegefaq.net)

The rear shocks may have different tophats, hopefully that is all that is different!

Imgur is a decent photo hosting site, I'm not too sure how / if it works with mobile stuff though
 
You need to post some useless crap on my thread to get my view count up...

I almost caught up to you.

 
Oh man I hope the tops are the same, or it not hopefully I can swap them over. Spud is just work slang for a punch, idk why they call it a spud but they've been doing it so long I've gotten dragged into saying it. Does anyone know if the ES came with ABS? If so I'm thinking about grabbing the transmission out of it, it's pretty clean and I would be down for a trans that holds fluid haha. Well I think for now I'm gonna track down some endlinks and maybe sway bar bushings, I have some moog front control arms and tie rods on the way, also my parking brake cable finally. I still gotta figure out what trailing links are and what lateral links are because I'd like to at least go through all my bushings, possibly with polyurethane bushings unless you guys have some better ideas
 
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