Headlight Questions

⋯ Still, the easiest (and probably the most practical) solution would be to buy a new set of good quality halogen bulbs, with a colour temperature of 4300k to 5000k.
Agreed. Color temperature is something we should watch and keep it under 5000K is the best.
 
I personally would just get better name-brand (Philip*Osram) brighter halogen bulbs to improve the vision of night time.

2014 CX-5 Low-beam H11 Bulbs

2014 CX-5 High-beam HB3/9005 Bulbs

Be aware that the brighter the halogen bulb is, the shorter the service life will be. The improvement is not very significant and can't compare to HID anc LED headlights.

HID is good but the major problem for me is it starts slow and will take time to get to the full brightness. And it isn't much more reliable than halogen as the factory HID on my 2000 BMW 528i started having problems with only 50K miles and the expensive HID bulbs needed to be replaced. The ballast for HID is also prone to fail.

The best is to get the best lighting available from factory and that's why I had to special-order our 2000 BMW as most people at the time didn't know the benefit of the HID and dealers wouldn't want to order any vehicles with HID option for their inventory.

Those links don't work Yrwei. Is there a particular model of those brands I should look at?
 
I use these VLEDs in the high housing of my GX 460 which is halogen. Low beams on vehicle are stock HIDs.

http://www.vleds.com/shop-application/application-high-beam/9005-hb3/micro-evo-9005.html

Cooling is not an issue with built in heatsinks and fans and they have adjustable indexing so you can rotate bulb as well.

micro_evo_exploded_2.png

9006_evo_2.jpg
 
Those links don't work Yrwei. Is there a particular model of those brands I should look at?
The links work for me on my iPhone. You can go to www.powerbulbs.com search for H7 and HB3/9005 bulbs. Theyre based in UK and I used to get Euro-spec bulbs there as they offer more varieties. You can compare the price with similar models now available in the US. Id only get low-beam H11s first and see if they look good enough for you.
 
I've had LEDs on low beam for almost 3 years now and from my personal experience they work better than the halogen. I started with Morimoto 2Stroke H11 and a year ago I installed the GTR Lighting Ultra Series LED Headlight Bulbs - H8 / H9 / H11 - 3rd Generation which are brighterr than the Morimoto ones. Morimoto cost around 120$/pair and if you are willing to spend more money, try the GTR but these are around 200$. Before the LED low beam I've tried all sorts of bright halogen bulbs and ended up changing them every 3 months or so. Since I've installed the leds, maybe once a year.

https://www.theretrofitsource.com/h...013+Mazda+CX5&preselect=&preselect_restrict=1

https://gtrlighting.com/gtr-lighting-ultra-series-led-headlight-bulbs-h8-h9-h11-3rd-generation/

The retrofit source guys are located in Atlanta. I actually bought the first set in person and they said back then I was the first CX 5 trying their product.
Also tried LED on high beam. Big failure, do not recommend. You really blind everybody and there is nothing even close to the halogen throw. So, LED for low beam -yes. High beam - big No!
 
I see so many of these bulb swaps even on low beams just being blinding because those halogen enclosures arent designed for the upgraded bulbs and dont have the right cutoff.

Even some OE designs are poor but its improving now that the IIHS rates glare.

One vehicle in particular thats bad with retro fit bulbs are Jeep Patriots.
 
Being born in Europe, I can say I have a beef with the way the average american driver understand to use high beams. You forgot the cars in front of you. As a rule of thumb: if you have cars in front of you ( driving in the same direction with you) less than a mile away, you should never use high beams. You seriously disturb the driver in front of you.:)
Back to the point. The problem is that the DRL/High beam in my 2013 CX-5 housing is a reflector, not a projector, like the low beam.
 
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Yea the high usage around here is horrid. Like in the city with lots of traffic and lit streets!
 
Have you looked at these? There are various places to get them, about $600 for the set. Hid bulb included and a bifocal lens. Plug and play igniter and all. Compare to trying to do an OEM hid upgrade and used headlights run about 250 ea, with no igniters or harness, bulbs or the control module. Honestly the only questionable part is the eyelid led.

https://www.ebay.com (commissions earned)

$_10.JPG


s-l400.jpg
 
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Have you looked at these? There are various places to get them, about $600 for the set. Hid bulb included and a bifocal lens. Plug and play igniter and all. Compare to trying to do an OEM hid upgrade and used headlights run about 250 ea, with no igniters or harness, bulbs or the control module. Honestly the only questionable part is the eyelid led.

https://www.ebay.com (commissions earned)

$_10.JPG


s-l400.jpg
Looks nice.
 
I put LED high beams in my MX-5. They don't focus the same way, throwing light higher and wider. But boy do the light up overhead signs and trees, a loong way off!!! Reach is farther, but could be even greater if they could put more of the tree light on the pavement. While a mixed bag, I'm not taking them out. Ask about focus with the bulbs you choose.
 
Decided to keep things simple and cheaper. This go around just going to grab some halogens, though those VLEDS were tempting.

Decided to pick up some Philips CrystalVision Ultras. Good choice? Only store locally that seems to carry these is Pep Boys. Looks like they are having a 15% off deal too.
 
Decided to keep things simple and cheaper. This go around just going to grab some halogens, though those VLEDS were tempting.

Decided to pick up some Philips CrystalVision Ultras. Good choice? Only store locally that seems to carry these is Pep Boys. Looks like they are having a 15% off deal too.

Eh.. I personally wouldn't get them because they have that blue coating on them to create the "white" light. You'll probably get the color you're after, but they won't be as bright as an uncoated bulb. I have used coated bulbs before and found that uncoated bulbs are better for longevity and "usable light".

That said, they're cheap enough to try, especially with that 15% off. But I would still suggest the VisionPlus or even the XtremeVision over the CrystalVision bulbs.
 
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Eh.. I personally wouldn't get them because they have that blue coating on them to create the "white" light. You'll probably get the color you're after, but they won't be as bright as an uncoated bulb. I have used them before and found that uncoated bulbs are better for longevity and "usable light".

Hmm...well back to the drawing board then.
 
Hmm...well back to the drawing board then.

Sorry lol! I'm sure this whole ordeal has been an information overload. At the end of the day, just buy what you feel most comfortable with. When you consider the cost of a pair of halogen bulbs and how often you'll end up replacing them, getting a pair that is 10% better or worse than a different pair is a moot point.
 
Question...if the coated bulbs lose light/brightness due to the coating, are they actually less bright than the stocks? If that's the case, then definitely do not want, even if the color is whiter. If it's still better than the stocks, then probably fine? Longevity of life at that point being the only potential issue?
 
The stock lightbulbs will dim over the life of the lamp.

Replacing with just a stock /standard bulb, will be brighter than a stock /standard bulb that has been used for a long time.
 
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The stock lightbulbs will dim over the life of the lamp.

Replacing with just a stock /standard bulb, will be brighter than a stock /standard bulb that has been used for a long time.

mazdadude just answered your question, CD. Well, sort of.. if you replace your existing bulbs with the new bulbs (CrystalVision), they will indeed be brighter, but as you mentioned, the longevity might be a concern.

The biggest thing to remember when changing light bulbs is not to let your fingers touch the glass of the bulb during installation. Use nitrile gloves if you have them - if not, a paper towel or tissue will do.
 
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