Break-in/first oil change on 2.5T

Figure I'll ask here...

I do my own oil changes too and am wondering how easy of a job is it changing oil and filter on the 5 (2019)? Is it a cartridge filter style filter or canister? Easy access to everything?
Changing oil and oil filter is very easy on CX-5. But OEM oil filter on 2.5T, PY8W-14-302, is different from naturally aspirated 2.5L, and the price is almost doubled. There're very few aftermarket oil filters which exactly match OEM oil filter specs on 2,5L, and I haven't seen any to match 2.5T. Make sure to get an OEM oil filter and use reputable full-synthetic 5W-30 oil you prefer.

Another thing to remember is the oil capacity stated in owner's manual is not accurate, or at least the definition of oil capacity is different from everybody else. If you pour in 5.1 quarts (for 2.5T based on CX-9 owner's manual; 4.8 quarts for 2.5L) of fresh oil after you changed oil filter and let used oil fully drained, the oil level would be only at the half-full mark on the dipstick. Every DIY 2.5L owner puts in 5 quarts of fresh oil to get to about ⅔ mark. To get to the "Full" mark, 5.2~5.3 quarts of fresh oil are required for 2.5L.

The oil filter is an old fashioned canister type.

Here's an excellent post on DIY oil change for SkyActiv 2.5L by tomcat1446, but everything will be the same other than above mentioned:

CX-5 Oil Change with Filter
 
Changing oil and oil filter is very easy on CX-5. But OEM oil filter on 2.5T, PY8W-14-302, is different from naturally aspirated 2.5L, and the price is almost doubled. There're very few aftermarket oil filters which exactly match OEM oil filter specs on 2,5L, and I haven't seen any to match 2.5T. Make sure to get an OEM oil filter and use reputable full-synthetic 5W-30 oil you prefer.

Another thing to remember is the oil capacity stated in owner's manual is not accurate, or at least the definition of oil capacity is different from everybody else. If you pour in 5.1 quarts (for 2.5T based on CX-9 owner's manual; 4.8 quarts for 2.5L) of fresh oil after you changed oil filter and let used oil fully drained, the oil level would be only at the half-full mark on the dipstick. Every DIY 2.5L owner puts in 5 quarts of fresh oil to get to about * mark. To get to the "Full" mark, 5.2~5.3 quarts of fresh oil are required for 2.5L.

The oil filter is an old fashioned canister type.

Here's an excellent post on DIY oil change for SkyActiv 2.5L by tomcat1446, but everything will be the same other than above mentioned:

CX-5 Oil Change with Filter

Thanks. Maybe I*ll just let em do it at the shop for a bit till the real world catches up.

Starting to wonder about this turbo thing... overpay by a ton up front and then overpay along the way too. Wonder if I*d lose my deposit if I just tell em to give me an 18 GT w PP instead.
 
Thanks. Maybe I*ll just let em do it at the shop for a bit till the real world catches up.

Starting to wonder about this turbo thing... overpay by a ton up front and then overpay along the way too. Wonder if I*d lose my deposit if I just tell em to give me an 18 GT w PP instead.
If you always DIY for oil change, you should really do it for your upcoming new CX-5 2.5T. You can enjoy the new engine and chassis from underneath, and most importantly you can make sure nobody would screw up things during the oil change. 2.5T is not new and its in CX-9 since 2016. To me the cost of OEM oil filter is not an issue, additional $8~$10 is easily to get offset by the labor youd pay to others doing the oil change. You can also choose the right oil you prefer, not to be settled by an unknown oil.

From reports of CX-9 owners in this forum, even Mazda dealers would use wrong oil, such as non-synthetic 5W-30 Mazda OEM oil or some blend bulk 5W-30 oil. Free oil change for the first time at your Mazda dealer most likely would get you 5W-30 blend.

Naturally aspirated 2.5L has sufficient power for my taste although I really like those new features available on CX-5 Signature. Theres no free lunch and more power will consum more fuel. I prefer better fuel efficiency than more power. Not to mention the added cost and frequency on maintenance for a 2.5T like you mentioned.

On the other hand I also dislike cylinder deactivation on current 2.5L as CD historically doesnt support a good long-term reliability.

Choosing between 2.5T and 2.5L would be a hard decision if I were you
 
What kind of warranty does the turbo gadget go out to? Still warranted out to 60K (assuming it's covered under power train)?
 
What kind of warranty does the turbo gadget go out to? Still warranted out to 60K (assuming it's covered under power train)?
Yes, it carries the same 5-year/60,000-mile powertrain warranty.
 
If you always DIY for oil change, you should really do it for your upcoming new CX-5 2.5T. You can enjoy the new engine and chassis from underneath, and most importantly you can make sure nobody would screw up things during the oil change. 2.5T is not new and its in CX-9 since 2016. To me the cost of OEM oil filter is not an issue, additional $8~$10 is easily to get offset by the labor youd pay to others doing the oil change. You can also choose the right oil you prefer, not to be settled by an unknown oil.

From reports of CX-9 owners in this forum, even Mazda dealers would use wrong oil, such as non-synthetic 5W-30 Mazda OEM oil or some blend bulk 5W-30 oil. Free oil change for the first time at your Mazda dealer most likely would get you 5W-30 blend.

Naturally aspirated 2.5L has sufficient power for my taste although I really like those new features available on CX-5 Signature. Theres no free lunch and more power will consum more fuel. I prefer better fuel efficiency than more power. Not to mention the added cost and frequency on maintenance for a 2.5T like you mentioned.

On the other hand I also dislike cylinder deactivation on current 2.5L as CD historically doesnt support a good long-term reliability.

Choosing between 2.5T and 2.5L would be a hard decision if I were you

Yeah. Probably at least $5-6k difference in otd $ between 19 Sig and 18 GT too.
 
Figure I*ll ask here...

I do my own oil changes too and am wondering how easy of a job is it changing oil and filter on the 5 (2019)? Is it a cartridge filter style filter or canister? Easy access to everything?



Ive been changing oil on my vehicles since the beginning and Im over 60 now. The CX5 is one of the easier ones Ive done. Remove the access plate and the drain plug and filter are right there.

The only thing i had to do different is get this car a bit higher. Its lower than the other vehicles Ive owned and Ive gained weight along the way which didnt help. A couple of stacked 2x10 boards screwed together with the edge cut at a angle provided me with enough clearance. I am not fond of ramps.

As mentioned already, a good reason to do your own oil changes is that you can check everything underneath and catch any problems early on. I also top off my fluids and clean the engine bay to keep it looking new.
 
Perhaps someone will come out with something for Mazdas like the VCMuzzler II that deactivates cylinder deactivation on Hondas and Acuras

https://www.ebay.com (commissions earned)

I have it on my *18 F150. Popped off console stack face trim where cyl deactivate on/off button is, inserted a wire jumper in the switch, and wala, cylinder deactivation *permanently* bypassed. Undo it when I have to take into dealer for any reason just in case. Might be as easy on the CX5?

I*ve been changing oil on my vehicles since the beginning and I*m over 60 now. The CX5 is one of the easier ones I*ve done. Remove the access plate and the drain plug and filter are right there.

The only thing i had to do different is get this car a bit higher. It*s lower than the other vehicles I*ve owned and I*ve gained weight along the way which didn*t help. A couple of stacked 2x10 boards screwed together with the edge cut at a angle provided me with enough clearance. I am not fond of ramps.

As mentioned already, a good reason to do your own oil changes is that you can check everything underneath and catch any problems early on. I also top off my fluids and clean the engine bay to keep it looking new.

Thanks. I*m sure I*ll do my own.
 
I've searched and didn't see any oil extraction (vacuum) related topics on oil changes...has any DIYers here done this on their Mazdas or other vehicles?

I've been installing the fumoto drain valves on almost all my vehicles (mostly Hondas) but am curious to know if anyone else here has done the vacuum alternative during oil changes.

 
I've searched and didn't see any oil extraction (vacuum) related topics on oil changes...has any DIYers here done this on their Mazdas or other vehicles?

I've been installing the fumoto drain valves on almost all my vehicles (mostly Hondas) but am curious to know if anyone else here has done the vacuum alternative during oil changes.

I used an extractor for top-side oil changes on my VW diesels because the canister oil filter was also on top, so no need to get underneath.

You have to get under the CX5 to get at the filter, and the drain plug is right there, so no real advantage to extract the old oil from the top in my opinion.
 
I've searched and didn't see any oil extraction (vacuum) related topics on oil changes...has any DIYers here done this on their Mazdas or other vehicles?

I've been installing the fumoto drain valves on almost all my vehicles (mostly Hondas) but am curious to know if anyone else here has done the vacuum alternative during oil changes.


I have used a plastic model on my boat for years. I will likely use it for the transmission when the time comes so I will not have to remove the bottom cover. I still use a drain plug switch as it is faster and I have to go under the car for the filter anyway...
 
I used an extractor for top-side oil changes on my VW diesels because the canister oil filter was also on top, so no need to get underneath.

You have to get under the CX5 to get at the filter, and the drain plug is right there, so no real advantage to extract the old oil from the top in my opinion.

Yeah...I was thinking the same way as well. If I'm down there anyways to remove the filter....It's not that much effort to install/open the fumoto valve and get it done with.

On a different note...I do like using that topsider on my small engines.
 
Change your oil sooner then the schedule. Empirical DATA shows that there is a lot of less then the best things in your new engines oil. If I had to recommend I would say 3,000 miles for both filter and oil. And then again at another 3,000 miles.
The rest of the common sence things seems to be ok......sorta....
The engine itself will not completely be broke in until around 12-15,000 miles. This is through some collected DATA that show a slight power increase at those miles. This is also why it is more important to spend a little more money and change the oil and filter more often until you at least reach 15,000 miles.
It takes about 4 oil and filter changes for the oil to show normal oil testing which means the engine is cleaned out with the less then desirable things showing in the oil.
I would not recomend to let the engine idle during cold starts during the first few thousand miles. This only leads to oil contamination and a few other negative effects on a new engine. In fact on newer engines they use parts in the reciprocating assembly that really need to you start and drive from a cold start for best longevity. It takes aprox 7-15 minutes for all the temperatures to reach "normal designed operating temperature" unlike engines designed a few decades ago. Operating temperature is not all about the water temperature and the blue light going off on the dash! hahaha!
 
First 2.5T oil change on Flexible oil monitor setting

First post - we bought our 2018 CX-9 just two months ago. The oil change indicator lit up at about 1500 miles. Up to that point I was debating whether to do the first oil change early, as many recommend, and then it was as if the Mazda engineers sent me a message.

My assumption has been that the first oil change notification is programmed to take place earlier than subsequent changes will. But I haven't found any mention of this online. Anyone else out there have an early oil change notification using the Flexible setting?
 
First 2.5T oil change on Flexible oil monitor setting

First post - we bought our 2018 CX-9 just two months ago. The oil change indicator lit up at about 1500 miles. Up to that point I was debating whether to do the first oil change early, as many recommend, and then it was as if the Mazda engineers sent me a message.
You should also find many recommend changing your factory oil according to the official maintenance schedule, and theres no need to change factory oil earlier than scheduled interval like Mazda、Honda、Toyota、and every other car manufacture suggests.

My assumption has been that the first oil change notification is programmed to take place earlier than subsequent changes will. But I haven't found any mention of this online. Anyone else out there have an early oil change notification using the Flexible setting?
I believe the reason why your oil change due notification comes up at 1,500 miles has nothing to do with pre-programmed early first oil change like you assumed. Its because your 2018 CX-9 has been sitting on the dealers lot for several months hence it counts the oil usage on time interval. Flexible OCI is up to 7,500 miles or 12 months based on driving conditions. This means if the vehicle is sitting in the dealers lot unsold for 12 months, the oil change due message should come up even though it has only single digit miles.

Check the assembly date on your CX-9 to verify my thinking.
 
I believe the reason why your oil change due notification comes up at 1,500 miles has nothing to do with pre-programmed early first oil change like you assumed. Its because your 2018 CX-9 has been sitting on the dealers lot for several months hence it counts the oil usage on time interval. Flexible OCI is up to 7,500 miles or 12 months based on driving conditions. This means if the vehicle is sitting in the dealers lot unsold for 12 months, the oil change due message should come up even though it has only single digit miles.

Yes, I think the car had been on the lot for about a year, so your explanation sounds reasonable. Thanks!
 
I have mentioned this a few times

Here is a example of what ALL MAZDA Skyactive Engines have floating around in that new engine for the first few thousand miles until around 3-4 oil and filter changes and the engine gets broke in at or around 12- 15,000 miles.


It hard to argue facts:
I would say for a couple of members look up each item on this report and then consider if you want that s*** in your new engine for very long LOL
Nothing is totally damaging but if left could be. Why take the chance? Change your first oil sooner then what is in the schedule!

I highly recomend for the small cost to get your oil analysis then you to can better information what is going on in your new engine or for that mater any engine you own. Members who at least have never had this done are not the best informational sources for when you should change your engine OIL at anytime.

Black Stone Labs
https://www.blackstone-labs.com/?se...abs.net/Bstone/(S(m4umbo45m35gu0npsmkgwk45))/

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