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Thread: Any help with diagnosis? P2009 and P0090 on my 03

  1. #16
    Registered Member heitktebinltraj's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by heitktebinltraj View Post
    I'll throw it in tomorrow and hope that it works.
    Just kidding, I couldn't wait. I threw it in just now, cleared the codes and drove it for about 10 minutes. Nothing came back on right away and she didn't show any symptoms so I'll take that as a good sign but hold off on officially announcing myself in the clear. I'll see if it comes back on sometime tomorrow.
    - 2003 Manual Protege5, Midnight Blue -

  2. #17
    Registered Member heitktebinltraj's Avatar

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    It's been a few days and the codes for either of the solenoids have both stayed off. However I am still getting a cylinder 3 misfire, P0303 I think. I changed all the plugs about 3k miles ago because I was getting a misfire and that fixed it, but now it's misfiring again. I changed the wires/coils yesterday and it's still misfiring. Dirty MAF sensor maybe? Could've gotten dusty from my leaky tube coupler on the air intake.
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  3. #18
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    This is what the Service Manual says...

    The Diagram Dude

  4. #19
    Registered Member heitktebinltraj's Avatar

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    Thank you!
    My RPMs still waver at start and idle which leads me to belive it could be a vacuum leak or my MAF sensor giving false readings, especially because the misfire only occurs half the time. Is it possible that would cause a misfire only in #3 though? I did get a P0300 code once but it went off pretty quick. Sometimes I'll drive somewhere no problems, sometimes it'll go crazy. It also only happens when I punch the gas, like to pass someone on the freeway or to take off from a light. If I back off on the throttle under ~50% the misfire stops and I can drive normal. So I don't think it's an ignition problem, but that it's running lean/rich somehow.
    Also, I think this is a seperate problem than what I made the thread for technically. Should I make a new thread? Not sure what the etiquette is. Thanks
    Last edited by heitktebinltraj; 12-15-2018 at 01:45 PM.
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  5. #20
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Changing the focus of your thread is up to you. As long as people see it to respond.

    You may have a partially fouled injector. That could certainly be cylinder specific.

    If it were me I'd put half a can of seafoam (or some kind of injector cleaner) in the gas and run it through.
    It doesn't cost much and might fix your misfire.
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  6. #21
    Registered Member heitktebinltraj's Avatar

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    Okay thanks for all your help!
    A dirty injector might make more sense. I've heard mixed things about seafoam but I think I have a can in my trunk, maybe I'll give it a try
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  7. #22
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by heitktebinltraj View Post
    Thank you!
    My RPMs still waver at start and idle...
    If you disconnected your battery the ECU needs to relearn how to idle the car.
    It takes about 100 miles of driving with a bunch of attempts to idle at different temperatures and such.
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  8. #23
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by heitktebinltraj View Post
    ... I've heard mixed things about seafoam...
    I'm curious about what you've heard about seafoam ??
    The worst I've heard is that it's just snake oil and doesn't do anything.

    I use it all the time... A shot in the gas at every fill up and half a can in the oil with every oil change.
    It appears to be working great for me.
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  9. #24
    Registered Member heitktebinltraj's Avatar

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    I don't think I've disconnected the battery since I bought it, a few thousand miles ago. Usually when I start it cold it'll Rev up to 2500rpms and slowly make its way down to normal, sometimes revving back up every once in a while on the way down before settling. Sometimes it'll dip as low as 500. It's all over the place.
    I know it definitely helps with carbon buildup, I've heard it does nothing at all but I've also heard stories of it damaging things by putting it in your tank. Although I've heard way more good things about seafoam then other additives. I'll throw some in next time I fill up, you just do a quick squirt in the tank before filling up?
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  10. #25
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Every time my idle starts to bounce a little I put Seafoam in the brake booster vacuum line.
    It always smooths out the idle.

    You may have a dirty IAC.
    You can remove it and clean it if you're nervous about Seafoam.
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  11. #26
    Registered Member heitktebinltraj's Avatar

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    I think the jumpy idle might actually be my brake booster dying on me. I'm in the Midwest so it's just now starting to get cold, and I've been hearing hissing when it's cold. I haven't checked it out for certain; burst a hose somewhere on Christmas Eve and I was spraying a small shower of Coolant. It looks like the leak is coming from where the coolant attaches to the driver side of the engine block, underneath the air intake. I can't see for sure though because it's in a shifty place. I work at a dealership and get discounted work so I might just take this one to them and let them find it. Just keeping it topped off with coolant for now, it's not leaking too bad but it'll only get worse. Sorry environment �� so that's my #1 priority for now. I'm going to use an injector cleaner once my tank gets low, I haven't had many instances of misfires, just here or there only when the engine is under heavy load. I love my car to death but she sure is testing my patience. I still have a bunch of suspension work I need to do. And still the list grows
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  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by heitktebinltraj View Post
    I think the jumpy idle might actually be my brake booster dying on me. I'm in the Midwest so it's just now starting to get cold, and I've been hearing hissing when it's cold. I haven't checked it out for certain; burst a hose somewhere on Christmas Eve and I was spraying a small shower of Coolant. It looks like the leak is coming from where the coolant attaches to the driver side of the engine block, underneath the air intake. I can't see for sure though because it's in a shifty place. I work at a dealership and get discounted work so I might just take this one to them and let them find it. Just keeping it topped off with coolant for now, it's not leaking too bad but it'll only get worse. Sorry environment �� so that's my #1 priority for now. I'm going to use an injector cleaner once my tank gets low, I haven't had many instances of misfires, just here or there only when the engine is under heavy load. I love my car to death but she sure is testing my patience. I still have a bunch of suspension work I need to do. And still the list grows
    There is a manifold in that area that bolts onto the cylinder head, with the upper hose and CTS sensors on it.

  13. #28
    Registered Member heitktebinltraj's Avatar

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    Sorry, I forgot to update when I fixed it!
    In summation, the CEL was being caused by the solenoid I replaced. It hasn't come back on since I replaced it. The engine stutter was a misfire caused by a cracked ignition coil, #4 was cracked and sparking. The jumpy idle is my brake booster leaking. So I would consider this resolved �� thanks everyone for your help!
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