No clutch pressure

Basspro48

Member
:
2003 Protege5
I have a 2003 P5 with 120k and recently had the clutch pedal go all the way to the floor with zero pressure. Upon inspection, I noticed the rubber section of the pressure line was leaking, so I replaced that - bled the system - and still nothing. There are no other leaks anywhere else in the system that I can find.

I figured after that I would replace the master cylinder, however, for the life of me I cannot get the push rod off of the clutch pedal.

So, with all of this being said I have two questions...
1. How the hell do I get this push rod off of the pedal?
2. What else do you believe may be wrong with my clutch?

Thank you.
 
I've got this... It looks like there's a c-clip holding the pushrod on.



One thing I have a vague memory of is that if your master cylinder reservoir runs empty, you're supposed to "bench bleed" it to get all the air out. (that might be for the brake master cylinder, not the clutch master cylinder ?)

Here's a link to the Factory Service Manual.
It's a free download.

http://www.floptical.net/mazda/
 
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Have you checked the slave cylinder? I had a ford Probe (same as a mazda mx6) many many years ago the slave cylinder went bad and it did exactly as you describe.
 
I did check the slave cylinder, no leaking fluid anywhere and the bleeder valve works just fine. Outside of that I'm not really room sure what else I could do to check the slave cylinder.

Thank you for the download link, so I removed the clip holding the pin however now I cannot seem to get the pin to come out - I've been trying to knock it loose for 3 hours with absolutely zero progress.

I ordered a new slave cylinder just in case and it will be here tomorrow, but I need to get this car up and running in the next 48 hours. Any additional help is greatly appreciated.
 
I did check the slave cylinder, no leaking fluid anywhere and the bleeder valve works just fine. Outside of that I'm not really room sure what else I could do to check the slave cylinder...

I'm pretty sure the internal seals can fail without any external leakage but the cylinder won't work.
 
I'm pretty sure the internal seals can fail without any external leakage but the cylinder won't work.

That's what happened to me. No leak, it just didn't work. If the seals around the push rod in the slave cylinder leak, it won't "push"
 
Slightly off topic but, if I may ask; is there any documentation of someone swapping a manual 5-speed into an automatic P5? I have a couple doner cars and am considering. (the black car in my signature link is my target manual transmission)
My real question is; is it practical?
 
She also did a fifth gear swap from a 626 to reduce the RPMS on the highway.
You don't have to pull the engine and tranny, just remove the side of the transmission.
 
Same happened to me last year with my 2003 with 120k+ miles. Pedal went right to the floor. I should have fixed it myself, but took it to the dealer. They replaced the clutch master, slave, and hose(s) between the two.

They them tried to charge me for diagnosing the problem (or rather, they didn't apply the diagnostics fee to work done). I've never heard of a shop doing that, but apparently that's a thing nowadays. They removed the charge after I complained. And what actual diagnostics were done when you replaced basically *everything*? :D
 
She also did a fifth gear swap from a 626 to reduce the RPMS on the highway.
You don't have to pull the engine and tranny, just remove the side of the transmission.

Thank you PCB for the insight and MP5 wisdom! I haven't been here long at all but I see your posts appear in alot of topics on questions I have and can tell you're a guru.
I'll dig into that thread for information on trans swaps and I'll heavily consider acquiring that 5-speed or another manual transmission. thank you
 
Apparently, it's best to have an entire donor car right with your car because you run into lots of little things you need to swap.
You can do it in a weekend if your prepared and have a couple friends to help.
 
Did you make any progress with your clutch?

I had a Nissan D21 seal in the MC fail and lost my clutch. Got a new MC cheap. "Bench bleed" really means it's easier to bleed the MC solo when it's still on the bench. There are a lot of passages that need to be purged of any entrapped air. It more difficult to do once everything's connected. I took my old MC apart then cleaned it out. Worked fine after that.
 
I may have access to a mini garage with an old-timer and assistant. He just bought a 76/77 (can't remember the year) K5 Blazer and is in the process of fixing that up. Rust isn't bad. I'll see what i can do about my donor cars.
MEANWHILE. Neighbor up the street left his Miata's droptop down and it pissed down rain all night, ****** alot of the electronics up, windows don't move, pop-up lights won't move and it runs like s*** now. Red with Viper style stripes down the middle.. Poor bastard. "<I'll give you 800$>"
 
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