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Thread: iddle issue

  1. #16
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    You could put some loctite on the nuts and bolts if you're worried about them vibrating loose.
    The Diagram Dude

  2. #17
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    I only use a torque wrench for my lug nuts.
    But I have a tendency to tighten the hell outta things.

    I don't know what 80 inch/pounds feels like but I'm sure I wouldn't think it's enough.
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  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pmazda5 View Post
    Thank you Paul
    You're welcome.

    I'd rather do this than work on my own car.
    It's cold out and it's all covered in snow.

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  4. #19
    Registered Member Pmazda5's Avatar

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    you need to get the hammer out and build a little garage your car is starting to look like mine, white ,thanks for clarifying the torque numbers ,I was thinking that my torque wrench was in in-lbf but its in ft-lbf so my nuts were tight enough but I upped the poundage a bit see if it would help but nothing changed ,if I coud only get brakes to firm up I would take it for a good run but these brakes are a pain to get pressure ,I read a number of threads and everyone seems to not be able to bleed them.looks like I will have to break down and get mazda dealer to help

  5. #20
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    I remember one guy that said you can remove the bolts from the bracket that holds the caliper and rotate the whole caliper to the top of the rotors, the bleeder screw is at the very top and you can get every last air bubble out.

    His rear brakes were soft and he couldn't bleed them properly.
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  6. #21
    Registered Member Pmazda5's Avatar

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    ya , I saw that thread, the problem is that my MC was totally drained so suspect air in there not sure how to bleed yet ,when bleeding front the pedal firms up but just slowly sinks to bottom of range , when bleeding and holding the pedal and opening the screw theres not much pressure normally when pump brakes and hold there is a good amount of pressure at bleed screw and will shoot fluid out and squirt under high pressure .not so now
    Last edited by Pmazda5; 11-19-2018 at 03:49 PM.

  7. #22
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    IIRC,.. you have to "bench bleed" your master cylinder if it runs dry.

    You may have wrecked your seals when you ran it dry.

    Does your brake pedal hold pressure or does it slowly push to the floor ?
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  8. #23
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    That sounds like bad seals in your master cylinder.

    An air bubble will compress but hold pressure. (but it will feel all spongy)
    Leaking internal seals will slowly push to the floor.

    You probably need a master cylinder rebuild kit or this.

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  9. #24
    Registered Member Pmazda5's Avatar

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    slowly goes to floor ,yahoo, can seals be replaced

  10. #25
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    If your brake pedal is slowly pushing to the floor but no fluid is leaking out then the fluid is leaking past the seals and seeping back into your reservoir.
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  11. #26
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by Pmazda5 View Post
    ... can seals be replaced
    I think so but rock auto doesn't seem to have them.

    They might be a dealer item.

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  12. #27
    Registered Member Pmazda5's Avatar

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    thanks

  13. #28
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    They might not be too keen on selling rebuild kits because if you mess it up, you've got no brakes at all.

    It's probably better to replace your master cylinder.
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  14. #29
    Registered Member Pmazda5's Avatar

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    good point

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