Wished my CX-5 worked as well as my Yeti

M

Monterra

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'16.5 JBM CX-5 AWD GT tech, '19 Veloster N
Kidding- but not the best of days for ol Monty from a vehicle standpoint.. Started fine woke up way earlier than I wanted to on a Sun but other than that fine- drop my son off at his soccer thing in the Mazda..still fine. Driving home so far so good until I get to the first hill- not terribly steep she hesitates felt like a tranny issue at first- all the dummy lights going ape s*** including the tranny, engine, more- pulled over seemed like she was gonna stall but doesn't.
Put her in park still ran rough like missing or something- turn it off wait started back up ok but low idle choppy- shaking..only 2 miles from home debated it said screw it just get it home- it was iffy whether it was gonna pull the hill- it does (barely at like 20 in a 40) I made it hope I didn't mess anything up worse but idk I guess I'm going to have it towed to dealer (which ain't close) - just upgraded my AAA just have to wait a week for it to hit. Good news was I have another month on my X1 lease (bc I extended it) so could be worse but man sure wish I had that 100k Hyundai powertrain right about now. See how this works out but not feeling too Mazda positive right here.. Anyone ever have this happen? I looked around but saw mostly gen2 issues...anyone?
 
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Misfire causing limp mode? That resets with a restart, for misfires. Might be a spark plug issue. Pushing 5 years on the engine now, might need to up the fuel system care (gas quality, additive etc). DO you have one of those $5 Bluetooth OBD2 readers?
 
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What you describe is a rerun of posts that have appeared here numerous times. Something (could be any number of causes) made the ECU to throw a code and put the drive train in "limp home mode". Have the dealer diagnose it by reading the code and making the appropriate repair. It's probably not that big a deal. Most important of all-don't panic!
 
Chris_Top_Her said:
Misfire causing limp mode? That resets with a restart, for misfires. Might be a spark plug issue. Pushing 5 years on the engine now, might need to up the fuel system care (gas quality, additive etc). DO you have one of those $5 Bluetooth OBD2 readers?
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I don't..I did put about a half tank of fuel (bit less actually) in last night at a place I've not gotten- but a Sunoco so didn't seem too scetchy- then drove about 30 miles home just fine..could be the culprit?
 
Monterra said:
⋯ Driving home so far so good until I get to the first hill- not terribly steep she hesitates felt like a tranny issue at first- all the dummy lights going ape s*** including the tranny, engine, more- pulled over seemed like she was gonna stall but doesn't.
Put her in park still ran rough like missing or something- turn it off wait started back up ok but low idle choppy- shaking.....anyone?
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Chances are your CX-5 could restart fine after the incident you had. Try to restart the engine after a long await and see what are exactly the warning lights do you see. If you dont have an OBDOII reader, try to take your CX-5 to an AutoZone and have them read the code for you.

My guess is your problem is caused by electrical issues such as bad grounding or ignition issues, but not fuel related issues.
 
I mean low idle, choppy, shaking... describes my own experience with worn plugs. A multiple misfire will limp the car, which clears after a restart. I know because I've out 87 in my tank once being cheap when I had my 93 tune on, and misfired at the top of 3rd gear multiple time. That's what I'd look at first but anything is possible
 
Mine didnt start. Made me 5 minutes late. Had to jump it off with my mower. Something in the air maybe. I left no doors open or lights on.
 
Unobtanium said:
Mine didnt start. Made me 5 minutes late. Had to jump it off with my mower. Something in the air maybe. I left no doors open or lights on.
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Or its time to get a new Group 35 battery at Costco. ;)
 
Post mortem..annoying but not a big deal in the end just never had this happen on a car so didn't know what was going on exactly. First thing I did was replace the plugs all i could find handy were densos but they seemed fine- gapped to spec out of the box..hoping that would just be it (and not the car to blame as with 87k I'm 12k late on the plug change..oops)..but it didn't help nor hurt still started and ran but crappy. Buddy at work brought in his code reader which confirmed a misfire in cylinder#4. My idea was to flip the position of the coil pack from 4 to 1, clear the code and rescan which i did but to my dismay it still complained about #4!! Rather than give up there I decided to unplug coil 4 while running (originally 1) and right away things got worse and she nearly stalled out. Did the same with coil 1- the one from 4th bay and to my delight nothing happened when I unplugged that one:) Called around dlrs have but want 114 plus tax and are all about 30 miles one way. Found and ordered 2 beck/arnleys for less than the price of 1 OEM on Amazon Friday evening, got them today. Though I was still a bit nervous when hitting that start button, the problem was solved literally 2 minutes after the pkg hit the mailbox and I've got a spare in my garage for when the next one likely goes. Annoying but thankfully a cheap and super easy diy fix..good to have the old girl up & purring again..now she gets her new Mich XI2s on this week and we're ready to roll on! That said- this kinda sucks w/zero warning and depending on where you are it can be a real pita and/or fairly dangerous so I think I may actually carry the other one onboard I mean why not. Anyway- not sure how common these are to crap out in 5 years but maybe this will help someone down the road but thanks for the input guys esp you unob..
 
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Monterra said:
Post mortem..annoying but not a big deal in the end just never had this happen on a car so didn't know what was going on exactly. First thing I did was replace the plugs all i could find handy were densos but they seem fine..hoping that would just be it (and not the car to blame as with 87k I'm 12k late) oops..but it didn't help nor hurt still starts and runs but crappy. Buddy at work brought in his code reader which confirmed a misfire in cylinder4. My idea was to flip the position of the coil pack from 4 to 1, clear and rescan which i did but to my dismay it still complained about #4!! Rather than give up there I decided to unplug coil 4 while running (originally 1) and right away things got worse nearly stalled out. Did the same with coil 1- the suspect one from 4th bay and to my delight nothing happened:) Called around dlrs want 114 plus tax and are all about 30 miles away. Found and ordered 2 beck/arnleys for less than the price of 1 OEM on Amazon Friday evening, got them today. Problem solved in 2 minutes after hitting the mailbox and I've got a spare in my garage for when the next one goes. Annoying but thankfully a cheap and easy diy fix..good to have the old girl purring again..now she gets her new Mich XI2s and we're ready to roll!
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Thanks for reporting. It seems we see failed coil pack from time to time, and an OBDII code reader is a necessary tool to diagnose the problem nowadays. Denso plugs should be fine as long as theyre iridium plugs, although I personally would prefer OEM/NGK ones.
 
Good to hear. I had thought coil pack myself before getting to your resolution post. On a v8 it sounds like you have an aggressive cam. On an I4, your symptoms sounded sensible.
 
yrwei52 said:
Thanks for reporting. It seems we see failed coil pack from time to time, and an OBDII code reader is a necessary tool to diagnose the problem nowadays. Denso plugs should be fine as long as they*re iridium plugs, although I personally would prefer OEM/NGK ones.
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OBDII is a godsend. I think the OEM plugs likely work fine for 150k miles.
 
I'm happy with the die hard deep cycle gel I have. Better spec than the Optima yellow top I was using and cheaper. Also that YT lasted like 3 yrs; what a rip.
 
Unobtanium said:
Bought one from Mazda
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So you seems to stay with OEM parts all the time even the battery! Like you, I use only OEM parts and all my vehicles use OEM battery until the dealer doesnt sell it anymore.
 
madar said:
Yep, picked up a few Mazda Value oil filters at the local dealer, $6.95 a piece, the aftermarkets were more expensive.
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Yeah the MSRP for Mazda Value oil filter PE01-14-302A-MV is $5.95. Most Mazda dealers sell OEM parts at MSRP to retail but some greedy ones add 10%~25% markup to MSRP. My Mazda dealer sells OEM parts at MSRP to retail, and 20%~25% off MSRP to business accounts.
 
madar said:
Yep, picked up a few Mazda Value oil filters at the local dealer, $6.95 a piece, the aftermarkets were more expensive.
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Dealers around here try to sell those for $12+. Not even the Thai filters, I'm talking the value line ones.
 
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