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Thread: Advice on work to be done on P5

  1. #1
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    Advice on work to be done on P5

    So I'm looking to do a couple things on my car.

    First, I'm pretty set on buying a AWR transmission mount but not sure on what duro, stuck between 70 & 88. Anyone have either or has tried both?

    Second, I need to either replace my power steering pump or seal it, as it is leaking from the suction hose (?) that comes out of the pump. I've seen a seal kit on rockauto so I'm tempted to try it but I have no idea how to do that.

    Those are the most pressing issues that I need to address.
    2002 Mazda Protege5 Pure White

    MP3 Flashed ECU | Mishimoto Radiator/Shroud | MS Door Sills & Shift Knob | OBX Short Shifter with CorkSport Bushings | Goodridge SS Brake Lines | CorkSport 3rd Link Mod | MPV Wiper Stalk & Tribute Nozzles | S2K Antenna | Cabin Air Filter Mod | Rear Bumper Guard with Matte Black Rear Valance | 205/55R16 Kumho Ecsta 4XII on 03 P5 Wheels

    Among the fair amount of maintenance work done.

  2. #2
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    P5

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    I'd say 70 would be the softest and going up would mean stiffer.. which means more vibrations and noise but a better feel when driving. Although you can give it time to settle and I heard 70 wasn't so bad at all. Plus you wouldn't have to change it out again for quite a long time if its aftermarket, depending on how you use the car. You can also elect to do inserts if you want. Depends on what you want from it; if you're looking for comfort and quiet then stick with OEM. Rear mounts are a PITA but passenger/front are fairly easy and straightforward.
    Just want to clarify I haven't upgraded my motor mounts because I elect to stick with OEM, but insane amounts of time spent researching it got me that. Curious to get more input on this though as well, subbed.

  3. #3
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

    2002 mazda protege 5

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    Quote Originally Posted by stormkyori View Post
    Second, I need to either replace my power steering pump or seal it, as it is leaking from the suction hose (?) that comes out of the pump. I've seen a seal kit on rockauto so I'm tempted to try it but I have no idea how to do that.
    It looks like you can just unbolt the suction tube and replace that single O-ring.
    The seal kit is for a complete pump rebuild.



    You might consider some stuff like this...

    The Diagram Dude

  4. #4
    Registered Member Corphish's Avatar

    83 RX-7 Gsl, 2000 Mazda Protege LX, 2011 Mazda3 Sport i

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    STOP RECOMENDING MECHANIC IN A CAN/BOTTLE!! These stop leak in a bottle are for getting your broken vehicle off the road and into a shop NEVER permanent!

  5. #5
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

    2002 mazda protege 5

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    Quote Originally Posted by Corphish View Post
    STOP RECOMENDING MECHANIC IN A CAN/BOTTLE!! These stop leak in a bottle are for getting your broken vehicle off the road and into a shop NEVER permanent!
    I remember when my '83 GLC was running like crap and I took it to the local Mazda dealer who looked at it and recommend a carburetor rebuild to the tune of $450.
    I was going to do it then talked to a friend who said to try a bottle of carburetor cleaner.

    That two dollar mechanic in a bottle saved me more than $400.


    I did show the OP two options for the power steering leak.

    As far as Seafoam goes, I'm going to keep recommending it.

    This guy saved his car with a mechanic in a bottle...

    Quote Originally Posted by n2stox View Post
    I was also burning a quart or so per month...dealer had no idea (compression was fine and all the plugs looked normal) and a 2nd mechanic had no idea except he said there is a lot of gunk in there.

    So, I ran an engine flush detergent (liquimoly) in a warm engine at idle for 15 mins before changing the oil. Smoke in startup was down about 90%. And I had serious spy vs spy smokescreen before...I could fog half the neighborhood. 2 weeks later I did it again....smoke is gone and that was 3 weeks ago.
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  6. #6
    Swollen Member Natey's Avatar
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    Yes, the lower the number the softer the polyurethane motor mount is...just like skateboard wheels.

    Unless you plan on big power, I'd leave those out and get some stock mounts though...unless you like to watch change jump around in your center console and have your fillings get rattled out at stop lights.

    lol it's not that bad, but be ready for a lot more NVH with poly mounts.
    NPOT (Norcal Protege Options Team)
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  7. #7
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    First off, any urethane mount will cause increased vibes. That being said - I replaced my stock mounts at just over 100k because the pass side was starting to tear. I bought a 4 kit off amazon ( dont remember the brand) and installed those. They actually had more vibes than the stock ones at 100k! Then there was the dreaded rear mount issue. Took forever to get that one swapped out. After hearing stories about replacement mounts not from the dealer sagging and not lasting as long I decided to go with inserts. I have RR racing up front ( very stiff) and AWR in the sides(70 i think). I tried the RR in the rear and I had WAY TOO MUCH NVH! Dash sounded like it was gonna rattle out, rear view mirror vibrated so much almost couldnt figure out what was behind me. I believe the RR are 95 duro but not sure. And I have the sportauto. So a manual might be a litle different. After alot of researching I bought another amazon rear mount and filled it with 60a liquid urethane. Doing that rear mount sucks and I dont want to have to do it for a very long time!! This set up does have more NVH but a Monster can doesnt rattle in the cup holder and neither do my keys in the drivers door. And again Ive got the auto. A manual will have less vibes. In short - get OEM mounts for comfort and longievity or a soft urethane mount or insert for daily. If your modded then look into stiffer urethanes. The softer urethane still holds the engine pretty solid and it feels like it shifts better to me. This was my experience at least

  8. #8
    Swollen Member Natey's Avatar
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    My MSP is bone stock since 2003. Every time I hope in someone else's Protege with aftermarket motor mounts I'm amazed that the guy isn't complaining about them. In fact, a few years ago I thought about selling the MSP for a low-mile MS3 that I had my eye on, but the guy had poly mounts and I didn't wanna deal with the buzziness. Plus the MSP is better looking and corners better, but that's a different thread.

    Poly mounts (or Delrin, or solid, or hockey pucks) are typically used to keep high horsepower engines from rocking around on their mounts from all the torque they produce. Proteges don't have enough power to do that, so if your engine it rocking around when you hit the gas, that's a big sign that the motor mounts are done.


    Definitely agree about the rear one though. It's a Bitch with a capital B to swap out!
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by pcb View Post
    It looks like you can just unbolt the suction tube and replace that single O-ring.
    The seal kit is for a complete pump rebuild.

    Yes! that's exactly where is comes out from. As for the stop leak. I haven't wanted to do that for fear that if I stop it, I'll think it's alright and not worry about it. This way I know there's something not right which needs fixing.

    So consensus is to just buy an oem mount? I want something durable so aftermarket with a low duro? I haven't really done any real engine work to the car, I don't think I'll doing a turbo unless it was a real bargain.
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  10. #10
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    Any advice on oil rings? how hard is it to do this myself. I've done most of the work on the car. The rings are cheap enough but I guess you have to clock them? Burning waay too much oil to let this keep going.
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