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Thread: DIY Brakes?

  1. #16
    Registered Member CX-5um's Avatar

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    Interesting conversation regarding Centric and EBC rotors https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ub..._vs_Centric_Pl

  2. #17
    Registered Member yrwei52's Avatar
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    Arrow DIY Brakes?

    I usually turn / resurface rotors when I need new pads. It’s cheaper ($15~$25 per rotor) but more hassle as you need to have a second car taking rotors to a machine shop. In case the softer rotors which are “cut” too deep by “harder” pads from factory like my BMW 528i and VW Passat, I get new OEM rotors as I always like to use OEM parts. But those OEM rotors are expensive. $175 each for front rotors on BMW, plus $35 new brake pad thickness sensor which is cut open by the edge of the deeply cut old rotor. VW OEM rear rotors are not cheap either, $125 each. Considering those OEM rotors are only one-time use with OEM pads, may be I should consider some after-market pads and rotors.

    ColoradoDriver, madar’s concern on rusted rotors which are very difficult to remove is legit. With many complaints on CX-5’s rusted brake system, it could happen in your area with a lot of winter road salt. And don’t forget to lub your caliper pins with proper grease when you’re there.

  3. #18
    Registered Member Anchorman's Avatar

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    I did this for the RAV4 forum a few years ago. It*s exactly the same.

    https://youtu.be/N9DXLDTCNhM

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by ColoradoDriver View Post
    How hard is it to DIY front brakes? I've never done it before, but I feel like I overpayed when I had my rears done, and want to avoid that again for the fronts.

    So I have a few questions:

    1. Is there an easy way for me to see/measure what my brake pads are at? Last year my fronts were at 6mm, but I suspect they may be in the range of needing replacement now.
    2. I've lately noticed some bumpy braking, so I suspect that may be due to uneven wear or warping of the rotors? Anything to be done with these, or should new rotors be put on?
    3. How long would it take to do a brake job for the first time? I would probably have to rent a lift as I don't have room in my garage for anything but ramps.
    4. Any kind of special tools needed?

    Thanks all.
    First off, good on you taking the initiative to do your own maintenance. You'll find doing stuff like changing out your own brakes, oil changes, transmission fluid changes or radiator swaps, etc. really aren't as intimidating as you might think. Just have a good forum to bounce questions off of, start gathering the right tools and get a factory service manual and you're good. You'll save a ton of money and (hopefully) know it was done right

    My answers to your questions:
    1. How many miles are on your CX now (is the 73k in your signature current)? Have the fronts ever been replaced before? If they're original I would plan on replacing the pads.
    2. You can turn them like others have suggested, but I would just figure on replacing them as well.
    3. Give yourself plenty of time for the first time. No need to feel pressured to do a job as important as brakes because somebody else more experienced can do it in XX minutes. In fact, it'll probably take you 30 minutes just to figure out the best way to jack the car up and get the wheels off. That's not a dig, just saying take your time.
    4. 1/2" ratchet and socket set up to 19mm, 21mm socket for lug nuts, 1/2" torque wrench, c-clamp large enough to compress the piston (or disc spreader already mentioned), rubber mallet to bang your rusted-on rotors off, can't hurt to have a 1/2" breaker bar (useful to have in your toolbox regardless), zip ties, steel cable or something you can suspend the caliper up without putting stress on the rubber brake line, hydraulic jack, jack stands, caliper grease, can of brake cleaner, rags... beer?

    Reference the FSM for torque values. Although the brake manufacturers don't always require it, I would recommend bedding in the brakes after you're done. You can find a good deal on a front Centric pad and rotor package at RockAuto for about $145 shipped somewhere in the greater Denver area.

  5. #20
    Resident barbarian ColoradoDriver's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dasrider View Post
    First off, good on you taking the initiative to do your own maintenance. You'll find doing stuff like changing out your own brakes, oil changes, transmission fluid changes or radiator swaps, etc. really aren't as intimidating as you might think. Just have a good forum to bounce questions off of, start gathering the right tools and get a factory service manual and you're good. You'll save a ton of money and (hopefully) know it was done right

    My answers to your questions:
    1. How many miles are on your CX now (is the 73k in your signature current)? Have the fronts ever been replaced before? If they're original I would plan on replacing the pads.
    2. You can turn them like others have suggested, but I would just figure on replacing them as well.
    3. Give yourself plenty of time for the first time. No need to feel pressured to do a job as important as brakes because somebody else more experienced can do it in XX minutes. In fact, it'll probably take you 30 minutes just to figure out the best way to jack the car up and get the wheels off. That's not a dig, just saying take your time.
    4. 1/2" ratchet and socket set up to 19mm, 21mm socket for lug nuts, 1/2" torque wrench, c-clamp large enough to compress the piston (or disc spreader already mentioned), rubber mallet to bang your rusted-on rotors off, can't hurt to have a 1/2" breaker bar (useful to have in your toolbox regardless), zip ties, steel cable or something you can suspend the caliper up without putting stress on the rubber brake line, hydraulic jack, jack stands, caliper grease, can of brake cleaner, rags... beer?

    Reference the FSM for torque values. Although the brake manufacturers don't always require it, I would recommend bedding in the brakes after you're done. You can find a good deal on a front Centric pad and rotor package at RockAuto for about $145 shipped somewhere in the greater Denver area.
    Thanks for this post!

    I have started to do a lot of my own maintenance including oil changes, filters, spark plugs, and transmission fluid drain and fills. I also tore into the interior to replace my faulty AT shifter switch, a $50 part that with labor probably would have cost $200+ to have a shop do it.

    Brakes seemed like the next thing to learn.

    Anyway, I live in a condo complex with a very small detached garage. Assuming you can jack from the front of the car, I just don't have room to work on both sides of the vehicle. There's no way I'd have enough room on both sides to even get both tires off. In fact passengers have to get out of the car before I pull in. Condo won't let me do the work outside the garage, so out of luck there. Thought it might be better to find another place to do the work, not sure where though. I also don't own a jack as I've been using ramps for ease of use in my tiny garage. Obviously ramps no good for brakes though.

    I have most of those tools, again, minus the jack/jackstands, and the C-clamp.

    EDIT: What do you mean by "bedding the brakes"? Not sure what that means.
    Last edited by ColoradoDriver; 10-09-2018 at 04:38 PM.
    2014 CX-5 Touring AWD | Jet Black Mica - 74k miles
    01/2013 build | 4/20/2013 buy

  6. #21
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    Hmm, I had a similar dilemma when I lived in a townhome without a garage. Ended up renting a 20x40 powered storage unit nearby that fixed that problem (and gave the wife some storage space in the back). Although this doesn't help you right now.

    Maybe do the work on a nice day in the local auto parts store parking lot??

    Anyway, bedding the brakes in is a way to break them in. This is a bit of a long read, but details everything, scroll down to "prevention" for the actual process: http://www.stoptech.com/technical-su...nd-other-myths



    In a nutshell you're creating enough heat quickly to apply a transfer layer of pad material onto the rotor surface as well as burn off paint and resin from the manufacturing process. Once it is allowed to cool properly the two mating surfaces will bite nicely and you'll be getting the best performance from your new products. Some folks will argue this is overkill for commuter-based street pads and rotors. However, even just simply driving around town does a similar process, but not as effectively. The first time you have to make an emergency stop will get that transfer layer on and unevenly. Chances are you'll feel it as vibration or judder some time later.

    The hardest part is finding a stretch of road where you can do the deceleration maneuvers consecutively without stopping.

  7. #22
    Registered Member CX-5um's Avatar

    13' CX-5 and 16' Mazda6 both Touring w/Tech/Bose

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    Quote Originally Posted by ColoradoDriver View Post
    Thanks for this post!

    I have started to do a lot of my own maintenance including oil changes, filters, spark plugs, and transmission fluid drain and fills. I also tore into the interior to replace my faulty AT shifter switch, a $50 part that with labor probably would have cost $200+ to have a shop do it.

    Brakes seemed like the next thing to learn.

    Anyway, I live in a condo complex with a very small detached garage. Assuming you can jack from the front of the car, I just don't have room to work on both sides of the vehicle. There's no way I'd have enough room on both sides to even get both tires off. In fact passengers have to get out of the car before I pull in. Condo won't let me do the work outside the garage, so out of luck there. Thought it might be better to find another place to do the work, not sure where though. I also don't own a jack as I've been using ramps for ease of use in my tiny garage. Obviously ramps no good for brakes though.

    I have most of those tools, again, minus the jack/jackstands, and the C-clamp.

    EDIT: What do you mean by "bedding the brakes"? Not sure what that means.
    I think you saved enough from DIY projects that you can just take your car to a reputable shop for brake work. Bedding the brakes is basically "breaking it in" like breaking in a new engine. The actual instructions various depending on the manufacturer and pad. Typically you want to avoid speeds in excess of x for x amount of miles. You drive up to x mph and slow down for x amount of times in a series. I want to say that O'Reilly's will resurface your rotor at $30 each or so. We have up to 2mm of actual metal thickness shaved off before the rotor is out of spec. I highly advise to have a fairly smooth rotor surface (new rotor or resurfaced one) when installing new pads. If the rotor is grooved to the touch then you're not getting max friction to stop and you'll wear out the new pads irregularly.

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