Oil confusion-16-19 2.5t

In a Phoenix summer, I'd use an xW-40 gasoline engine oil. I'd want the extra viscosity in that blistering heat. Mobil 1 0W-40 or Castrol Edge or Kendall GT-1 Euro/Phillips66 Shield Euro-Tech 5W-40 would be my choice. I know, not in the book. A diesel engine 5W-40 would have the wrong additive package for our engines--it's would work but not be the best in the long run.

CX-5um, the life of oil in a turbocharged engine all depends on how the turbocharger heat is handled. To know that oil life, as you mention, a lab analysis is needed. The level of oxidation of the oil, increased by excessive heat, would be one of the signs of how the oil is surviving.
 
In a Phoenix summer, I'd use an xW-40 gasoline engine oil. I'd want the extra viscosity in that blistering heat. Mobil 1 0W-40 or Castrol Edge or Kendall GT-1 Euro/Phillips66 Shield Euro-Tech 5W-40 would be my choice. I know, not in the book. A diesel engine 5W-40 would have the wrong additive package for our engines--it's would work but not be the best in the long run.

CX-5um, the life of oil in a turbocharged engine all depends on how the turbocharger heat is handled. To know that oil life, as you mention, a lab analysis is needed. The level of oxidation of the oil, increased by excessive heat, would be one of the signs of how the oil is surviving.

The hot Phoenix summer is one of the reasons I choose to use fully synthetic oil (turbo is another). It's the best I'm aware of that meets the manufacturer's specs. I won't go outside their specifications especially during the warranty period and probably not ever. I know that I don't know better than the people who designed the engine.
 
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I would not use dino oil in a turbo car period. Unless it is an old engine that's been on dino its whole life, dino is more likely to come in a turbo.
 
I use full synthetic (Castrol Edge 5W-30) and a dealer-purchased filter/crush washer on my '17 CX-9, and I'll do a change every 5,000 miles, which for me is between 2 and 3 times/year. A 5-quart jug of Castrol Edge is only $25 on Amazon, and the filter/crush washer is maybe another $8. It seems silly to not spend $99/year to make sure my CX-9 lasts as long as possible.
 
I use full synthetic (Castrol Edge 5W-30) and a dealer-purchased filter/crush washer on my '17 CX-9, and I'll do a change every 5,000 miles, which for me is between 2 and 3 times/year. A 5-quart jug of Castrol Edge is only $25 on Amazon, and the filter/crush washer is maybe another $8. It seems silly to not spend $99/year to make sure my CX-9 lasts as long as possible.

Ill be following this schedule and oil as well! Hey colnago saw u own a Gt Coupe. Used to own an 87 2.3l. Loved that car!!
 
Just picked up 19 GT. Salesman said you need to use regular oil and 3k intervals cause of Turbo. This goes against the 5k-7500k intervals Mazda recommends(which ill be following).
But can anyone tell me what oil the dealer is putting in your 2016+. I know synthetic is not required according to Manual but would think it would be beneficial long term.
My turbo Audis always used Full synthetic. Read recent Kbb article with CX-9 in their long term fleet. They specifically indicate that dealer put Castrol Edge 5w 30 full synthetic in their car at first oil change.
Also checked Castrol website and recommended oil is the Edge full synthetic 5w30.

Just an update. After the service manager at dealer told me the same 3k interval with conventional oil I emailed Mazda who said either synthetic or conventional can be used as long as 5w30. I had the oil changed at 5k using full synthetic.
After 1500 miles the engine seems to run smoother and quieter with synthetic. The engine was quite noisy when new and has improved as Ive put miles on it( now 6500). The biggest change was a ticking noise under hard acceleration from right side of engine.(like lifter noise) Noise has disappeared shortly after the switch. My mileage has also increased about .7 mpg since change and this is in much colder temps. So I will be sticking with Synthetic and changing every 6-7k miles.
 
I wanted to resurrect this thread because I have an oil change due on my '18 GT at some point in the near future. This is my second turbo (Volvo T5 was the first) and from that experience I learned a little about the ACEA oil specifications which can be applied to turbo motors. Through some searching, I found that the direct injection turbo engines in our CX-9s are recommended to use API Service Classification SN-rated/ACEA A5/B5 oils. I believe that the 'official' recommendation by Mazda, if you're using Castrol, is the Magnatec 5w-30 A5. In fact, according to the Castrol site, only the Magnatecs are A5/B5. The Edge oils have gone back and forth on being A5/B5, Bobistheoilguy.com. This can be over-thought, but I wanted to at least give some additional details/thoughts on the 'conventional vs. synthetic' discussion. Just to add more confusion, if you use the Castrol oil "Oil Finder", the recommended oil for our CX-9s is the 'Castrol EDGE 5W-30 U.S.' not Magnatec. Go figure. Or, you could just stick with Mobil 1: Mobil 1 5w-30 is A5/B5.
 
I wanted to resurrect this thread because I have an oil change due on my '18 GT at some point in the near future. This is my second turbo (Volvo T5 was the first) and from that experience I learned a little about the ACEA oil specifications which can be applied to turbo motors. Through some searching, I found that the direct injection turbo engines in our CX-9s are recommended to use API Service Classification SN-rated/ACEA A5/B5 oils. I believe that the 'official' recommendation by Mazda, if you're using Castrol, is the Magnatec 5w-30 A5. In fact, according to the Castrol site, only the Magnatecs are A5/B5. The Edge oils have gone back and forth on being A5/B5, Bobistheoilguy.com. This can be over-thought, but I wanted to at least give some additional details/thoughts on the 'conventional vs. synthetic' discussion. Just to add more confusion, if you use the Castrol oil "Oil Finder", the recommended oil for our CX-9s is the 'Castrol EDGE 5W-30 U.S.' not Magnatec. Go figure. Or, you could just stick with Mobil 1: Mobil 1 5w-30 is A5/B5.

Definitely a lot of overthought. The US and Canadian manual for the 2018 CX-9 states that the oil used must be 5W-30, and that the quality designation SM or SN, or ILSAC must be on the label. That's it. It doesn't recommend any specific line of oil, only Castrol-branded, and further to that, it's just a brand recommendation, not a requirement.

On the Castrol.com website, Castrol Edge 5W-30 is listed as "meets or exceeds industry standards A5/B5-12, and API SN+", but check the jug if you really want to be sure. Does the A5/B5 designation really make that much of a difference? I mean, according to the bit of reading I did from the BITOG thread you linked, it sounds like the Edge 5W-30 was A5/B5 certified until the ACEA changed the spec on them. I can't access that link from work, so I didn't look into it any further.
 
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ACEA (European Automobile Manufacturer's Assn) specs often relate to extended drain intervals and specific manufacturer's requirements. A5/B5 is their highest spec for gasoline engines. C & E specs are for light duty and heavy duty diesels, respectively. A1/B1 and A2/B2 no longer exist.
"A3/B3 Stable, stay-in-grade Engine Oil intended for use in Passenger Car & Light Duty Van Gasoline & Diesel Engines
with extended drain intervals where specified by the Engine Manufacturer, and for severe operating conditions as
defined by the Engine Manufacturer.
A3/B4 Stable, stay-in-grade Engine Oil intended for use at extended Drain Intervals in Passenger Car & Light Duty Van
Gasoline & DI Diesel Engines, but also suitable for applications described under A3/B3.
A5/B5 Stable, stay-in-grade Engine Oil intended for use at extended Drain Intervals in Passenger Car & Light Duty Van
Gasoline & Diesel Engines designed to be capable of using Low Viscosity Oils with HTHS Viscosity of 2.9 to 3.5
mPa*s. These Oils are unsuitable for use in certain Engines - consult vehicle-OEM*s owner*s manual/handbook in
case of doubt."


Castrol's web site is no help. It says that Edge 5W-30 meets the retired A1/B1, but the Edge product data sheet says A5/B5. The web site doesn't say anything about Magnetec meeting any ACEA spec, and the Magnetec product data sheet is equally silent about ACEA.

As long as the Mazda North America owner's manual says nothing about ACEA, don't worry. If you want to do better, OK, use it; it may, or may not, yield better results in the long run.

High temperature/high shear viscosity is important. It is a viscosity test at 150C. Higher HT/HS may give better wear protection but lower fuel economy. Engine makers are always on the tightrope between engine wear protection and fuel economy.
 
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ACEA (European Automobile Manufacturer's Assn) specs often relate to extended drain intervals and specific manufacturer's requirements. A5/B5 is their highest spec for gasoline engines. C & E specs are for light duty and heavy duty diesels, respectively. A1/B1 and A2/B2 no longer exist.
"A3/B3 Stable, stay-in-grade Engine Oil intended for use in Passenger Car & Light Duty Van Gasoline & Diesel Engines
with extended drain intervals where specified by the Engine Manufacturer, and for severe operating conditions as
defined by the Engine Manufacturer.
A3/B4 Stable, stay-in-grade Engine Oil intended for use at extended Drain Intervals in Passenger Car & Light Duty Van
Gasoline & DI Diesel Engines, but also suitable for applications described under A3/B3.
A5/B5 Stable, stay-in-grade Engine Oil intended for use at extended Drain Intervals in Passenger Car & Light Duty Van
Gasoline & Diesel Engines designed to be capable of using Low Viscosity Oils with HTHS Viscosity of 2.9 to 3.5
mPa*s. These Oils are unsuitable for use in certain Engines - consult vehicle-OEM*s owner*s manual/handbook in
case of doubt."


Castrol's web site is no help. It says that Edge 5W-30 meets the retired A1/B1, but the Edge product data sheet says A5/B5. The web site doesn't say anything about Magnetec meeting any ACEA spec, and the Magnetec product data sheet is equally silent about ACEA.

As long as the Mazda North America owner's manual says nothing about ACEA, don't worry. If you want to do better, OK, use it; it may, or may not, yield better results in the long run.

High temperature/high shear viscosity is important. It is a viscosity test at 150C. Higher HT/HS may give better wear protection but lower fuel economy. Engine makers are always on the tightrope between engine wear protection and fuel economy.

Thanks, I appreciate you clearing that up for me.
 
Are any of you using the maintenance minder to determine the oil change interval? I'm curious to see what the computer says is needed.

imo, it's a waste to change the oil before 7500 mi unless you're doing true severe driving and using the 5000mi schedule 2 maintenance intervals
 
Are any of you using the maintenance minder to determine the oil change interval? I'm curious to see what the computer says is needed.

imo, it's a waste to change the oil before 7500 mi unless you're doing true severe driving and using the 5000mi schedule 2 maintenance intervals

I'm in Canada, so I follow what the manual recommends, which is the same as the Schedule 2 maintenance intervals. Some CX-5 owners have been following the flexible OCI and it's been working for them.
 
I follow the flexible maintenance reminder. For my supposed-to-be 3rd oil change, I set it to a fixed schedule of 6,000 miles. With ~300 miles left on the counter, I drove the CX-9 900 miles to NJ with the intent of just changing the oil there. The oil had ~6,700 miles when I changed it, but out of curiosity I changed it to the flexible schedule before resetting. It was surprising that the flexible schedule mode was still running in the background; it said that I still had ~300 miles to go before the counter reached zero.
 
Thanks, I appreciate you clearing that up for me.

Thought about this overnight and with reference to sm1ke and PTguy's responses. I've had great luck using Mobil 1 full synthetic in my two Acuras, so I may just stick with that in the Mazda. Meets Mazda's requirements, and it usually hovers around $25.00 for a five quart jug. I think Amazon usually has a good discount on a 3-jug box - Will need that for the 0.1 quart over 5.0 quarts we need to put in these engines. :) Oh, and I will definitely go with the Mazda oil filter for this motor, as opposed to a third-party filter.
 
Mobil 1 is one of many fine oils that will work great in our engines. Idemitsu oil is probably very good, but is it anything special? They have a blending plant in Indiana where they buy base oil, buy an additive package from a chemical company, and blend and bottle the oil. There might be something unique about it, and there might not--we don't know. Many oil refiners sell base oil to any buyer, and several chemical companies have the additive packages ready to meet any spec for gasoline or diesel engines, on road or marine or motorcycle, gear oils, transmission fluids, hydraulic fluids, or anything else. The package of essential additives include anti-wear agents, anti-oxidants, anti-foamants, anti-corrosives, detergents and dispersants, viscosity index improvers, pour point depressants, friction modifiers, maybe dye, and others.

Choosing an oil filter is quite different from choosing an engine oil. There are industry standard specs for oils. Mazda gives us the spec, and we know that anything we buy with that spec will work. Filters are not made to industry standard specs. We do not know if any aftermarket filter meets the performance of the original equipment filter. The engine maker does not provide the filter specs they way they provide oil specs. Filter makers reverse engineer the factory filter. There are industry standard tests for particulate capture, etc., and some of the better filter makers may test for all that. Other filter makers may pick one from their existing catalog and assume that the performance will be close enough. Engine damage that can be blamed on an improper filter is covered by the filter maker's warranty, not the Mazda (or any car brand) warranty. I use OE filters.
 
Mobil 1 is one of many fine oils that will work great in our engines. Idemitsu oil is probably very good, but is it anything special? They have a blending plant in Indiana where they buy base oil, buy an additive package from a chemical company, and blend and bottle the oil. There might be something unique about it, and there might not--we don't know. Many oil refiners sell base oil to any buyer, and several chemical companies have the additive packages ready to meet any spec for gasoline or diesel engines, on road or marine or motorcycle, gear oils, transmission fluids, hydraulic fluids, or anything else. The package of essential additives include anti-wear agents, anti-oxidants, anti-foamants, anti-corrosives, detergents and dispersants, viscosity index improvers, pour point depressants, friction modifiers, maybe dye, and others.

Choosing an oil filter is quite different from choosing an engine oil. There are industry standard specs for oils. Mazda gives us the spec, and we know that anything we buy with that spec will work. Filters are not made to industry standard specs. We do not know if any aftermarket filter meets the performance of the original equipment filter. The engine maker does not provide the filter specs they way they provide oil specs. Filter makers reverse engineer the factory filter. There are industry standard tests for particulate capture, etc., and some of the better filter makers may test for all that. Other filter makers may pick one from their existing catalog and assume that the performance will be close enough. Engine damage that can be blamed on an improper filter is covered by the filter maker's warranty, not the Mazda (or any car brand) warranty. I use OE filters.

Idemitsu is who makes the Mazda branded 0w-20 Moly oil and is used for the factory fill
 
Did a ton of reading over the weekend on NOACK percentages and other esoterica on oils, GDI turbo motors, PCV blow-back, etc... In looking a oil numbers, I think that using a high quality synthetic (Mobil 1 Advanced, Pennzoil Ultra Platinum, Amsoil (if you want to spend the $$)), etc...) will be a fine choice, and mating that with an OEM Mazda filter. The majority of my reading pointed not to the statistics of oil quality but the issue of DIRTY oil circulating through the induction system leading to dirty intake valves. So, going back to the original posting by Ssteigss10 in this thread to on the 3,000 mile oil change - There may be a nugget of truth here. If dirty oil particulates are atomized in vapor within the PCV system, that would be an issue for caking onto the valve train. More frequent oil change may help to mitigate this (any engineers out there? Risk avoidance vs. risk mitigation debates on driving cost). Bottom Line: This is my first GDI turbo motor so I'm all for spending a little more money in oil changes (doing them myself) to mitigate the risk, changing the oil every 3,000 to 4,000 miles instead of 5,000 to 7,000. Thoughts?
 
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Did a ton of reading over the weekend on NOACK percentages and other esoterica on oils, GDI turbo motors, PCV blow-back, etc... In looking a oil numbers, I think that using a high quality synthetic (Mobil 1 Advanced, Pennzoil Ultra Platinum, Amsoil (if you want to spend the $$)), etc...) will be a fine choice, and mating that with an OEM Mazda filter. The majority of my reading pointed not to the statistics of oil quality but the issue of DIRTY oil circulating through the induction system leading to dirty intake valves. So, going back to the original posting by Ssteigss10 in this thread to on the 3,000 mile oil change - There may be a nugget of truth here. If dirty oil particulates are atomized in vapor within the PCV system, that would be an issue for caking onto the valve train. More frequent oil change may help to mitigate this (any engineers out there? Risk avoidance vs. risk mitigation debates on driving cost). Bottom Line: This is my first GDI turbo motor so I'm all for spending a little more money in oil changes (doing them myself) to mitigate the risk, changing the oil every 3,000 to 4,000 miles instead of 5,000 to 7,000. Thoughts?

I would suggest doing a couple of UOAs for your first couple of oil changes. Blackstone Labs seems to be very popular in the US, and I've heard that they will recommend prolonging or shortening the OCI based on the results from the UOA. I'd start at the higher mileage (5k to 7k) and go from there.
 
I would suggest doing a couple of UOAs for your first couple of oil changes. Blackstone Labs seems to be very popular in the US, and I've heard that they will recommend prolonging or shortening the OCI based on the results from the UOA. I'd start at the higher mileage (5k to 7k) and go from there.

Thanks! That sounds like a good plan.
 
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