New to me 2016 CX-5 Sport AWD

Actually there is a dipstick, however you have to either access it from below the car (by removing the plastic shield underneath), or from the top, under the hood, by removing the air box. Where the dipstick is, acts as the fill hole, and the transmission pan underneath the car has a drain plug like the oil pan.

And at 72k miles when I did 3 drain/fill sessions of my transmission fluid, I do wish I had started doing that closer to 50k miles. The fluid wasn't bad, but it was darker than I wished. Capacity is around 8.2 quarts if I remember correctly. A fluid drain/fill session will get out about 3.5 quarts or more (according to the manual). When I refilled with the same 3.5 quarts, I found that the factory level was low and it wasn't enough. 4 quarts ended up being too much. 3.7 quarts was perfect and right in line on the dipstick.

Yes, I usually drain/fill a couple of times and then do it a drain/fill every 10k miles. Fluid never gets "new" but should always be in acceptable shape. Thanks for the heads up about the underfill. Sometimes I've just measured what comes out and replace that quantity but at least there is a dipstick to check on this car.
 
Eh...I don't trust the dealership at all. Not when they are trying to sell me SkyActiv automatic transmission fluid flushes which as we know cannot be done.

I have a trusted mechanic. I just haven't had to use him since I got my CX-5 as he's not in a convenient location for smaller stuff. But for major stuff, he's honest, priced great, and I'd have no problem asking him questions and talking about the car to ensure he does whatever is correct for the CX-5, including using the right Mazda fluids even if I had to provide them (for instance the ATF Type FZ, or Mazda FL-22). I'd rather a guy like that than a dealership trying to sell me services that can't actually be done for beaucoup bucks any day.

Luckily on most of my other cars (Miata and Subaru) there are local specialty places that I take whatever I can't do to them (ie Miata in for a clutch right now). However, my Chevy Volt is another story. Dealer only.
 
Yep OP found an excellent deal for his need. Hertz, the previous owner, apparently took the money and ran, still came up on top even though they were selling it cheap. My CX-5 have suffered hail damage twice, each fix cost about $8,000 to $10,000!

I went through an auction site. There were actually a few of them - must have been a really bad hail storm in Colorado this summer. There was a pretty new '16 GT that looked like there were basketball sized dents in the room and the front glass was completely gone.

I may have a PDR guy look at it and maybe replace the hood at some point in the future but for a teenager, he can just live with it.
 
Are there any more of these things available? How did you go about finding it?

Screw it, I'll drop 6500 today for one...

$6.5k plus $1k to ship. Hopefully it will be here tonight or tomorrow. Luckily I have a spare spot in the garage since it's missing the rear window. My guess is that I'll have $8.5 - 9k to have it ready to go.
 
must have been a really bad hail storm in Colorado this summer.

Horrendously bad the last 2 summers actually. Lots of hail sales as a result, and a $30/month spike in car insurance rates. (pissed)

Luckily enough my car was out of the garage on each of these major hail storms, but I happened to be in spots that didn't get hit. My mom's Subaru Crosstrek on the other hand had to have windows replaced as well as the roof, hood, and whatever else, and aside from the window, took her months to get in to the body shop for the rest of the work.
 
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A 2.0 CX5 imo is an ideal college kid car. 30+ mpg, rarely going to get in trouble with it, lots of space. But even those are north of 6.5K. This seems like a great deal. The way Gen 2 CX5 and 6 are holding value - hail damaged ones are probably the only ones that may make sense.
 
Yeah, there is truth to that too if you find a quality dealership service department, but obviously that's going to vary from area to area.

I've honestly found good dealers everywhere I've been, even in total s*** towns like Shreveport where I used to live. For me, it was the GM dealership. Dealers will work on any make/model. They (GM dealer) replaced my front rotors on my Jeep for $90, and every part I ever bought THROUGH them, was dealer + 10% cost. I believe my LS6 clutch cost me something like $410? It was cheaper/as cheap as anywhere online, I know that. They even did some pro-bono work on my WS.6 when I was in college (I later bought my Z06 from them...it pays to treat your poors nicely, they do elevate themselves and come back, sometimes...).

Here, it's been my Mazda dealership. They have done more than excellent by me.

Independent shop labor is very similar, by hour, as dealership labor. The difference is, the independent shop owner may not have everything you need. While the dealer may not, also, they don't papercut you to death. The tech doing the work doesn't care one bit about what it costs the shop, they will typically just get what they need to do the job, and since they quoted you "X" to do it, it remains the same. The independent owner gets you on the phone all "See...well...what happened was...", and I've had to often come behind them and fix their s***. Like on my Jeep, they literally didn't even tighten the bolts on the LCA's they installed for me. Sure, it was cheaper in THAT case...but really?! I crawled under my jeep at 11pm and with a 6" socket wrench got nearly a full turn out of several bolts, no jack, nothing, clutching the thing barely above my chest at a huge mechanical disadvantage. The creaking and popping stopped, tho! I have literally NEVER! had to work behind the dealership to fix their job.
 
I've honestly found good dealers everywhere I've been, even in total s*** towns like Shreveport where I used to live. For me, it was the GM dealership. Dealers will work on any make/model. They (GM dealer) replaced my front rotors on my Jeep for $90, and every part I ever bought THROUGH them, was dealer + 10% cost. I believe my LS6 clutch cost me something like $410? It was cheaper/as cheap as anywhere online, I know that. They even did some pro-bono work on my WS.6 when I was in college (I later bought my Z06 from them...it pays to treat your poors nicely, they do elevate themselves and come back, sometimes...).

Here, it's been my Mazda dealership. They have done more than excellent by me.

Independent shop labor is very similar, by hour, as dealership labor. The difference is, the independent shop owner may not have everything you need. While the dealer may not, also, they don't papercut you to death. The tech doing the work doesn't care one bit about what it costs the shop, they will typically just get what they need to do the job, and since they quoted you "X" to do it, it remains the same. The independent owner gets you on the phone all "See...well...what happened was...", and I've had to often come behind them and fix their s***. Like on my Jeep, they literally didn't even tighten the bolts on the LCA's they installed for me. Sure, it was cheaper in THAT case...but really?! I crawled under my jeep at 11pm and with a 6" socket wrench got nearly a full turn out of several bolts, no jack, nothing, clutching the thing barely above my chest at a huge mechanical disadvantage. The creaking and popping stopped, tho! I have literally NEVER! had to work behind the dealership to fix their job.

Uh no...

I agree with Colorado here. Sure theyre good dealership, even some with great mechanics...
But, most of the best mechanics around do not work at dealerships. Its just as simple as that...
Youre right though, the tech doesnt care one bit what it cost the dealership to do the job because a lot of dealerships around here the mechanics are working on Commission. Thats right, Commission...Some of Kia techs here are pulling 6 figures, yea I said it, and yea I used Kia as an example...
Ive worked behind the dealerships the rare times Ive used one. Hell, when my Evo was still under warranty, it was sent to a dealer in another town for repair because he was Diamond Star Certified and the only one that really should be touching Evo warranty work in my State. What a crock of pooh!! The guy couldnt fix the car, and what do you know, hes calling my Dad and I asking us how to fix it. He didnt listen the first time, even after we told him if you do that your way its gonna cause catastrophic failure. Well, long story short, it did! Lol They had to order me a whole new engine. Utter ridiculousness...
Ive NEVER had an independent shop get on the phone with me with what had happened was... More like they allow me into the bay to show me exactly what theyre trying to explain and the problem. Good luck with that at a shady dealer...
Congrats on finding a dealer similar priced to an independent shop, but that is nowhere near the norm, and I think you know it...

Bottom line is this, to each their own, so for those that wanna use the dealer, and pay way more for the majority, go right ahead. For the rest of us, myself anyways, Ill gladly stay the hell away from them...
 
I've actually had good experiences with Jim Ellis Mazda here in town. They helped a lot with my '02 Miata and the parts guy was helpful once he figured out that I knew what I was doing (somewhat).
 
Going to have the roof replaced along with the dents on the side. Should look pretty decent after that.
 
From the diagram I saw it seems to be bolted (and likely adhesive) on to the frame/unibody. The OEM panel is $300.

My biggest issue is how to get the windshield out before I take it there.
 
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