HELP NEEDED Buying 2016 CX 5 60k+ miles

Greycx52016 said:

Car sold Tuesday to someone else. On to the next deal, thanks everyone!

https://www.jimbrownechevy.com/Vehi...CX_5-FWD_4dr_Auto_Touring-Tampa-FL/3297270893

This one offered @ 15.432k...CARFAX is empty though...thoughts/advice?

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I'd buy a 2015-2016.5 with the lowest miles and cleanest history you can afford, presuming it has the options package you've got. I would not buy FWD, even in a flat non-snow state. I used to own a FWD vehicle in such a state, and it sucked. RWD or AWD for those places. FWD is just crap. I was reminded of that today during my brake job when they loaned me a new Mazda 6 GS Turbo model. Nice car, but drove like ass. FWD was the main thing that killed what could have been a really solid ride.

Unobtanium said:

⋯ RWD or AWD for those places. FWD is just crap. I was reminded of that today during my brake job when they loaned me a new Mazda 6 GS Turbo model. Nice car, but drove like ass. FWD was the main thing that killed what could have been a really solid ride.

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Yep, FWD with a strong engine definitely is not a good combination for performance. Ive always been wondering why some people want Mazda putting its 2.5T in the FWD Mazda 6. A 2.0T should be the one in there, with better fuel economy to boot.

yrwei52 said:

Yep, FWD with a strong engine definitely is not a good combination for performance. I*ve always been wondering why some people want Mazda putting its 2.5T in the FWD Mazda 6. A 2.0T should be the one in there, with better fuel economy to boot.

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Yeah, that was my loaner. Absolutely terrible combo.

Unobtanium said:

I'd buy a 2015-2016.5 with the lowest miles and cleanest history you can afford, presuming it has the options package you've got. I would not buy FWD, even in a flat non-snow state. I used to own a FWD vehicle in such a state, and it sucked. RWD or AWD for those places. FWD is just crap. I was reminded of that today during my brake job when they loaned me a new Mazda 6 GS Turbo model. Nice car, but drove like ass. FWD was the main thing that killed what could have been a really solid ride.

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I never thought of that before, but that is a really odd combo of FWD and the Turbo.

ColoradoDriver said:

I never thought of that before, but that is a really odd combo of FWD and the Turbo.

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My recently departed 2017 VW GTI had a 2 liter turbo, FWD, with 220 HP. It handled extremely well with no torque steer. It's downfall was the amount of wheelspin it would have on a hard launch, but other than that, driven less than 10/10ths, you couldn't really tell it was FWD. I am not a FWD fan by any means, most of my cars being AWD, but not all FWD cars are created equally...

wrxray said:

My recently departed 2017 VW GTI had a 2 liter turbo, FWD, with 220 HP. It handled extremely well with no torque steer. It's downfall was the amount of wheelspin it would have on a hard launch, but other than that, driven less than 10/10ths, you couldn't really tell it was FWD. I am not a FWD fan by any means, most of my cars being AWD, but not all FWD cars are created equally...

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I'd say the same of my last 2.0 Saab. And my current 2.5 turbo Volvo. What's lag?

My experience is sometimes they just dont budge beyond a certain point, no matter how hard you try. Its their loss if they do...someone else might come along whos not as good of a negotiator.

Factor in the risk that you lose the deal over just a few hundred dollars, and that this happens multiple times. Just make sure if youre willing to go that route, that you dont eventually get desperate and end up paying more than you would if you had just accepted an earlier reasonable deal.

Dont overlook private sellers either. Try autotempest.com which will search all the regional Craigslists and other listing websites. Could score a great deal by cutting out the middleman, and your negotiating skills will hold up better against an individual compared to a professional salesperson whos seen all the tricks buyers use (walking out, dropping hints about having x amount of cash, declining add-ons at the last minute, etc.). Just be sure to get the car inspected and take a long test drive. Have the seller tell you everything they know about the vehicles history, and see if a mechanic can corroborate.

It sounds like youre smart with money and I assume have some emergency savings, so think about skipping the warranty. You might be better off taking a calculated risk versus paying a fixed amount youll probably never recover.

Just my 2 cents.

https://www.clearwatertoyota.com/us...earwater-9b4990dd0a0e0ae82394e0f803540b0b.htm

Would anyone touch a used 2013 GT?

Looks nice might be able to get the price down..I need to get a car in the next two weeks.

Greycx52016 said:

https://www.clearwatertoyota.com/us...earwater-9b4990dd0a0e0ae82394e0f803540b0b.htm

Would anyone touch a used 2013 GT?

Looks nice might be able to get the price down..I need to get a car in the next two weeks.

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If you will be satisfied with a 2.0 L engine instead of the 2.5 L, I wouldn't rule out a 2013. I'd be more concerned with service records, etc. With only 47K miles you're paying a premium for the low mileage. My concern on that low of mileage for a 5 or 6 year old car is, is that a bunch of short trips or less frequent medium to longer trips. I personally hate a used car that's only been driven by a "little old lady to church on Sunday". KBB shows 12 used CX-5's in the Clearwater area. Have you checked any of them out? Just my $0.02. Good luck.

brillo54 said:

If you will be satisfied with a 2.0 L engine instead of the 2.5 L, I wouldn't rule out a 2013. I'd be more concerned with service records, etc. With only 47K miles you're paying a premium for the low mileage. My concern on that low of mileage for a 5 or 6 year old car is, is that a bunch of short trips or less frequent medium to longer trips. I personally hate a used car that's only been driven by a "little old lady to church on Sunday". KBB shows 12 used CX-5's in the Clearwater area. Have you checked any of them out? Just my $0.02. Good luck.

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No I havent, Im trying to find the best lowest priced haha. Also, my family always says go for the old lady car, why do you disagree?

Greycx52016 said:

No I haven*t, I*m trying to find the best lowest priced haha. Also, my family always says go for the old lady car, why do you disagree?

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I am not saying drive like Jackie Chan 100% of the time but revving it high from time to time helps minimize the carbon buildup. Carbon Buildup can be cleaned if you have a trusted independent guy who can work on your car so no biggie.
A 2013 is going to be great on gas. Very slow to 60 like 9.5 secs or worse. See if it fits your style. Good luck.

Greycx52016 said:

No I haven*t, I*m trying to find the best lowest priced haha. Also, my family always says go for the old lady car, why do you disagree?

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Because the CX-5 engine tends to be in better health when it has taken time to run a long time. Long highway drives and the like. Short trips where the engine doesn't have time to warm up properly is less ideal. I forget all the reasons, but if I recall, I think one of the reasons was that it can lead to fuel in the oil and it not getting a chance to burn off. I'd much rather have a CX-5 that someone actually puts through it's paces as it should be.

Greycx52016 said:

No I havent, Im trying to find the best lowest priced haha. Also, my family always says go for the old lady car, why do you disagree?

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Kaps and CD covered most of my concerns pretty well. Years ago, one of the major car guys (Smokey Yunick I think) did a test where they took identical engines in a test setup and ran one for short stints and one for longer. After tear-down the the short stint engine showed much more wear than the longer run one. Modern oils try to mitigate much of the cold start-up wear and being a FL car it may not be as big an issue since you don't have the cold temp extremes that some of us do, but it's something that would be in the back of my mind.